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So there is most definitely an exhaust leak..it's audible. The smog guy I took it to said it couldbe the EGR valve, but is more than likely an exhaust leak. NOX levels are at 572 at 15 mph and 622 at 25 mph.
So. Do I just say F it and buy a new exhaust manifold kit with all the gaskets at $119, or try to replace one by one?
I assume you failed Smog on NOx (you don't say where you are or what the max is). Those are really high numbers. In California, an exhaust leak alone should lead to failing smog, but your technician went ahead and ran the tailpipe test.
First, I'm not aware of how an exhaust leak could lead to high NOx numbers. Those are almost certainly caused by an EGR problem. At a minimum, run the FSM tests. http://web.archive.org/web/201204061...77exhaustg.pdf Several on this forum have reported a carbon-clogged EGR valve; the FSM tests should find that.
The exhaust leaks, even if they have nothing to do with your smog test, should certainly be fixed (you don't want to end up nodding off at the wheel due to CO poisoning). There are a lot of places from which exhaust could leak; replacing the gaskets at every connection would be a big job (but, at least then the job is done). On my truck, the gaskets on the cross-over (3VZE) failed (both sides). To find them, I used my magnet-on-a-stick, a small washer, and a small piece of paper. With the paper stuck on the end of the stick with the washer, I could move it around until I saw the paper fluttering. You could probably hold a piece of paper in your hand, but there isn't much room and everything is pretty hot. Replacing those two gaskets fixed my issues.
Here's a pic of the numbers:
I'm more of your "fix the easy stuff, leave the hard stuff (like head gaskets, valve adjustments and the like) for the pros, kinda guy. According to this guy I did a good job on my IACV. So I suppose a little explanation of what I actually need to do as far as testing would be helpful. The pdf may as well be in Chinese, to me.
When you guys mention 3VZE I have no clue what exactly that refers to. I assume it's an engine type..
Also, I should mention the previous owner had a magnaflow muffler installed and for some damn reason shortened the exhaust pipe. I'm not crazy about it being just behind the cab, but it is what it is. I dont have tons of cash to throw at fixing that.
... When you guys mention 3VZE I have no clue what exactly that refers to. I assume it's an engine type..
I can tell you I have a 22re.
The 3VZE is the 6-cylinder. You don't have the cross-over.
Originally Posted by JoshToy84
...I'm more of your "fix the easy stuff, leave the hard stuff (like head gaskets, valve adjustments and the like) for the pros, kinda guy. According to this guy I did a good job on my IACV. So I suppose a little explanation of what I actually need to do as far as testing would be helpful. The pdf may as well be in Chinese, to me. ....
It's good to know your limitations. If using a vacuum gauge is "Chinese" to you, that's okay. Maybe a professional mechanic would be a good choice. Still, just remember that all of us started from somewhere.
The 3VZE is the 6-cylinder. You don't have the cross-over.
It's good to know your limitations. If using a vacuum gauge is "Chinese" to you, that's okay. Maybe a professional mechanic would be a good choice. Still, just remember that all of us started from somewhere.
Wow. Apparently I need to learn how to view pdf files. I thought there was only the one page. And I need to get a vacuum guage.
So I paid Harbor Freight a visit and got a few needed tools. Finally bought a torque wrench, and got the Mityvac mv8000 vacuum test and bleed kit. And also a handheld digital tachometer from Ebay. Hope I get more than one use out of this stuff. Or maybe not depending on how you look at it.
I never understood why automatics always came with tachs but manual transmissions rarely did.
So I believe I've found my exhaust leak. Looks to be right near the front of the motor at the top of the exhaust manifold.
I'm halfway tempted to buy a new exhaust manifold. The one on there now looks like it has a light coat of rust on the exterior. For an entire kit, manifold and all gaskets from Rock Auto is only $119. Not a bad price for everything.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears there are two manifold to head gaskets in this kit (pic below), which are slightly different. Is one of them a gasket for a 22r?
Then again, why spend $119 if I don't necessarily need a new manifold? From the looks of things Rock Auto has a manifold gasket that comes with an egr and flange gasket for $20.
A new exhaust manifold isn't going to fix your high NOX. NOX issues with these engines are rarely the cat and almost always the EGR system. Test the EGR valve and EGR Modulator. A quick and dirty test for the EGR valve is apply vacuum straight to the valve. The engine should almost immediately die. The EGR Modulators fail from a bad vacuum diaphragm since exhaust gasses push up on this diaphragm and deteriorate them overtime (back pressure EGR system). You can do a quick test by either sucking or blowing air through the bottom vacuum line of the modulator. There should be no air passing either direction. If these check out, go through the process of testing them via the service manual. As always, check and make sure all of the vacuum lines are properly routed, vacuum lines checked for cracks and breaks, and make sure air freely passes from the vacuum lines to the throttle body (sometimes the throttle body ports get clogged up and vacuum isn't present)
Most exhaust noises on these engine are from leaky gaskets. If the engine was overheated or run very hard for a long period of time, the exhaust manifold can warp. Check with a straight edge and if warped, a machine shop can plane the surface straight for a decent price. Alos, check for cracks. You can quickly seafoam the engine and look for traces of smoke and their location if you want to take that approach.
I didn't think replacing the manifold would fix my high NOx after the first reply to this thread, I merely thought that it was looking old and kinda rusty (and so does the rest of everything else downpipe to muffler), and maybe it might be time to replace it anyway.
I was looking at the EGR valve today while cleaning the motor. Man, that's gonna be a PITA to get to, not to mention putting it back on with a new gasket. It looks like there's two vacuum lines coming off the EGR valve..one on top and one at the bottom. Which side do I apply vacuum to?
I didn't think replacing the manifold would fix my high NOx after the first reply to this thread, I merely thought that it was looking old and kinda rusty (and so does the rest of everything else downpipe to muffler), and maybe it might be time to replace it anyway.
As long as the exhaust manifold isn't leaking or have cracks, it is fine. Chances are the exhaust manifold you posted from Rock Auto is made by Dorman, which has a reputation among mechanics for making some poor quality parts.
As long as the exhaust manifold isn't leaking or have cracks, it is fine. Chances are the exhaust manifold you posted from Rock Auto is made by Dorman, which has a reputation among mechanics for making some poor quality parts.
It's actually made by ATP. I went ahead and ordered it anyways. Now my question about the gaskets...in that kit, there appears to be two manifold to head gaskets. Obviously I'm going to be using what matches, but am I correct? Are there two for different applications (fuel injected vs. carb)?
It's actually made by ATP. I went ahead and ordered it anyways. Now my question about the gaskets...in that kit, there appears to be two manifold to head gaskets. Obviously I'm going to be using what matches, but am I correct? Are there two for different applications (fuel injected vs. carb)?
The different gaskets are for older 22R vs newer 22R or 22R-E.
For your 1995 truck, you will use the gasket with the pear-shaped exhaust ports.
Well, did a lot of driving today. After hitting 3 junkyards (with nothing but tailgate rods to show), my exhaust leak sounds like it's gotten worse.
Also noticing every now and then when I am slowing to stop, I'll press the clutch in and the rpms will stay high for a second, then drop. I just replaced the IACV so it can't be that.
Also hearing what sounds like metal to metal (not squealing brake sound but scraping sound) when I press the clutch in...like my clutch pads are wearing out. No slipping though. But I have noticed when I'm shifting into second when the motor has been run awhile, the gear grinds unless I let the rpms drop to almost idle. I seem to remember having this issue with my older Toyota and the rear main seal was bad. Yes, I'm pressing the clutch in all the way.
I did learn a few things. It looks like 89 and 90 4 runner front bucket seats might bolt directly into my truck (which is a single cab with a bench).
05-04-2020, 09:49 AM
