Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

93 toyota will not crank power issues.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 31, 2013 | 06:01 PM
  #1  
flodartagen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
93 toyota will not crank power issues.

This is the problem. I a 5 speed 93 Toyota extra cab pickup that will not crank. I have power too the starter but no power from the ignition to the starter when I turn the key to start. I have replaced the starter relay and still nothing, I have power to windows, lights and every thing else so I don't think it could be the ignition switch but I'm not great with electrical work so I don't really know. Any ideas would be great.
Reply
Old Mar 31, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #2  
Co_94_PU's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 5,433
Likes: 555
From: Colorado
Start with inspecting the switch.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3ignition.pdf
Or the Relay
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2starterr.pdf
Or the clutch switch
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4inspecti.pdf

If the problems not there it's in the wires somewhere else
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 12:18 AM
  #3  
wyoming9's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Starter relay means manual.

Did you have voltage there before changing ?? You installed a new one??

Is the wire connected to the starter solenoid??

Have you tried to hot wire the truck to see if it does crank??

The engine does turn free ?? It is not seized ?
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:05 AM
  #4  
Josh_Br's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: NW PA
Does your truck have a "cancel clutch start" button on the dash? If so, and you push it, will your truck start without the clutch? If so, it may be the clutch switch.

You've replaced the start relay you said. If it's not the clutch or the relay, maybe it's a fuse or something in the wiring. Did you check the fuses? Good luck
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #5  
flodartagen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
All the fuses are good I checked out relay, clutch switch, clutch cancel switch and the ignition switch with a multi meter everything checks out fine. The clutch switch only checked out with the key on for somereason don't know if that matters. I have taken out The starter and hotwired it and it seems to work fine. The truck is not froze and turns over with a wrench but I am going to put the starter back in and hotwire it to see if I.can get.the truck started that way.
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 03:59 PM
  #6  
Josh_Br's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: NW PA
Originally Posted by flodartagen
All the fuses are good I checked out relay, clutch switch, clutch cancel switch and the ignition switch with a multi meter everything checks out fine. The clutch switch only checked out with the key on for somereason don't know if that matters. I have taken out The starter and hotwired it and it seems to work fine. The truck is not froze and turns over with a wrench but I am going to put the starter back in and hotwire it to see if I.can get.the truck started that way.
Hotwire sounds like a good way to go, at least until you get it figured out.
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 04:16 PM
  #7  
Co_94_PU's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 5,433
Likes: 555
From: Colorado
Originally Posted by flodartagen
The clutch switch only checked out with the key on for some reason don't know if that matters.
INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT OF CLUTCH START SWITCH
INSPECT CONTINUITY OF CLUTCH START SWITCH
(a) Check that there is continuity between terminals when the switch is ON (pushed).
(b) Check that there is no continuity between terminals when the switch is OFF (free).
If continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.
You need to check the switch with it unpluged otherwise it will give a false reading. Remove it from the holder/bracket and test it again, if it checks out ok it just needs adjusted if not it needs replaced.

And yes you can do it while it's attached to the bracket, but from the above you either did it wrong in some way I can't even guess at, or it's bad or not in adjustment. Removing it solves all of those possible problems.


Assuming all those parts check out it has to be a bad wire somewhere. My guess would be between the relay and starter. But don't overlook checking for proper power at the relay, pin5 constant, pin3 while cranking.
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:04 PM
  #8  
flodartagen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the help. I got the ignition somewhat figgured out, at one point there was an alarm system installed and other electronics. I found one wire off the ignition that just ended and attached a temporary wire from that point to a point shortly before the relay/fuse box. The truck fires right up but only runs for about a second and then dies, during this second or two it runs great, no sputtering or anything it just dies and no amount of gas can keep it running. The car has been sitting for almost two years so hopefully it is just bad gas or something. The guy I got it from said it might have blown head gasket but there is no water in the oil or vice versa. Would a blown head gasket not allow the truck to keep running and show no signs of water in oil?
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:32 PM
  #9  
Co_94_PU's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 5,433
Likes: 555
From: Colorado
Well the book says bad gas is #1. Myself I'd put a light probe on the diag FC and ground and see if the light goes off after you stop cranking, this would indicate a problem between the VAFM and circuit opening relay. The senerio would be the COR activates the pump but the AFm does not so you loose fuel pressure quickly and the engine dies.

if you suspect a head gasket issue you need to do compression and leak down tests.
Reply
Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:58 PM
  #10  
wyoming9's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,381
Likes: 100
From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Now we get the rest of the story!!

Been sitting a few years :jessica:
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2013 | 07:25 AM
  #11  
scope103's Avatar
Registered User
15 Year Member
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,380
Likes: 871
From: San Francisco East Bay
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
... Myself I'd put a light probe on the diag FC and ground and see if the light goes off after you stop cranking, this would indicate a problem between the VAFM and circuit opening relay.
I think you mean FP [fuel pump] on the diagnostic connector.

Which is the advice I would give; "starts and runs for a few seconds" is the classic sign of a VAF/COR problem.
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #12  
Co_94_PU's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
 
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 5,433
Likes: 555
From: Colorado
Thank you scope!

Yes FP in the DLC, FC doesn't go there
Reply
Old Apr 2, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #13  
flodartagen's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Thanks for the tips unfortunately I will not be able to work on it until this friday I will hit you guys up with an update this weekend.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
OffroadRalph
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
8
Jul 2, 2015 07:28 PM
rbravo1
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
Jun 29, 2015 01:34 PM
sharrack
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
2
Jun 26, 2015 09:33 AM
Peteyg39@hotmail.com
Newbie Tech Section
1
Jun 26, 2015 08:15 AM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:52 PM.