92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
Apr 28, 2010 | 06:59 AM
#2284
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
for the most part...disassembly I had considered to be easier than re-assembly....but as far as those 3 nuts on the down pipe and the exhaust manifold attachment...it really went smooth.
and , even though i have not tightened up the down pipe yet, i was able to finger tighten the nuts on the studs from above....which is a helluva lot easier than when i struggled to get them off of there.
and , even though i have not tightened up the down pipe yet, i was able to finger tighten the nuts on the studs from above....which is a helluva lot easier than when i struggled to get them off of there.
Apr 28, 2010 | 07:02 AM
#2286
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
and.....i haven't searched the FSM yet....and i will, but i'm thinking the same 33 ft/lbs for the down pipe.....and yes there are new gaskets there....weird looking ones too....like compressed tin-foil or something like that.
Apr 28, 2010 | 07:04 AM
#2287
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
Apr 28, 2010 | 07:41 AM
#2290
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
let me just take a moment to say that, for 99% of these pictures, i have been using an absolutely beat-up, old, 4.0MP Fuji camera......i hope it never dies.....we have a 10mp camera that does not take pics as nice as this does.
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:13 AM
#2292
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From: Bryan Tx,
My Kodak finally bit it just the other day.....It was a good camera, can't belive that I dropped it.
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:28 AM
#2293
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
There are three bolts that connect the heater bypass tube to the back of the timing cover. The only way you can access them is with the power steering pump and bracket off of the head. Make sure it is sealed up really well and the bolts are tight. When I did my timing chain, the only leak I had was that tube and I had to take everything back off to seal up that leak. In fact I had to take the timing cover back off and use FIPG on the tube to get the leak fixed. It was a huge dissappoitment to say the least. Thought I would warn you before you got too far ahead of your self.
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:42 AM
#2294
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From: maine
pics...
in my labeled bag there were 3 bolts that held the tube to the back of the timing cover on the exhaust side......tube only had 2 holes????....so i had an extra bolt........i suffered all day yesterday and again today trying to figure out how the hell that could be......so, now i made it extra tough on myself and have the power steering in the way so there was NOOOO chance of seeing there, so i felt around and sure enough i could feel where it should go......don't know what it was for, i have a feeling it's to hold the back of the power steering to the back of the cover but i'm not sure.....snapped a pic of the area but it really does not show anything...
OK....on with the show...
don't know why, but i felt like putting this sticker on...since i do officially have LC Engineering parts on here and the receipts to prove it......so here you are.
and this is how it started........i put PB BLaster on the studs and ran a nut on each of them....then i took each nut and put it on each bolt....to make sure there were no burrs or any issue...there were no issues....except, 1 stud had come out on disassemble and still had the nut attached....i left it like that "leave well enough alone...."
and then THIS....let me tell you, trying to get the 3 studs to line up with the down pipe while putting this on is a PITA and need 5 arms to make it happen.
and then this PITA thing.....very hard to make it line up with the tube it mates up with....VERRRRRY HARD indeed.....was having horrible thoughts at this point about having to remove the head because i thought i had something ass-backwards......but alas, i became creative........i excel in that department....
PINCH IT together with vice-grips....hehehehehe
with a little masking tape to protect everything...
and there ya have it.....everybody is torqued down to 33 ft/lbs like the book says.......finger tight from the center out and round and round for several passes until it was time to get the torque wrench on it..........
looking gooooood....
in my labeled bag there were 3 bolts that held the tube to the back of the timing cover on the exhaust side......tube only had 2 holes????....so i had an extra bolt........i suffered all day yesterday and again today trying to figure out how the hell that could be......so, now i made it extra tough on myself and have the power steering in the way so there was NOOOO chance of seeing there, so i felt around and sure enough i could feel where it should go......don't know what it was for, i have a feeling it's to hold the back of the power steering to the back of the cover but i'm not sure.....snapped a pic of the area but it really does not show anything...
OK....on with the show...
don't know why, but i felt like putting this sticker on...since i do officially have LC Engineering parts on here and the receipts to prove it......so here you are.
and this is how it started........i put PB BLaster on the studs and ran a nut on each of them....then i took each nut and put it on each bolt....to make sure there were no burrs or any issue...there were no issues....except, 1 stud had come out on disassemble and still had the nut attached....i left it like that "leave well enough alone...."
and then THIS....let me tell you, trying to get the 3 studs to line up with the down pipe while putting this on is a PITA and need 5 arms to make it happen.
and then this PITA thing.....very hard to make it line up with the tube it mates up with....VERRRRRY HARD indeed.....was having horrible thoughts at this point about having to remove the head because i thought i had something ass-backwards......but alas, i became creative........i excel in that department....
PINCH IT together with vice-grips....hehehehehe
with a little masking tape to protect everything...
and there ya have it.....everybody is torqued down to 33 ft/lbs like the book says.......finger tight from the center out and round and round for several passes until it was time to get the torque wrench on it..........
looking gooooood....
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:47 AM
#2295
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From: Downtown Heckronto, Ontario, Soviet Canuckistan
I can give you some tips on getting better pictures with your supposedly "better" digital camera. I've noticed that a lot of the point and shoots these days will auto-select ISO level, an seem to enjoy auto-selecting ISO80 or ISO200 when taking pictures of rusty old 'yotas, which results in some real grainy images (or fairly blurry in the case of ISO80). If you still have your camera's manual, flip through it and look at how to turn off the auto-ISO and then set it to at least ISO400, that's usually good enough for nice big and crisp images with a lot of stuff in the foreground.
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:50 AM
#2296
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
There are three bolts that connect the heater bypass tube to the back of the timing cover. The only way you can access them is with the power steering pump and bracket off of the head. Make sure it is sealed up really well and the bolts are tight. When I did my timing chain, the only leak I had was that tube and I had to take everything back off to seal up that leak. In fact I had to take the timing cover back off and use FIPG on the tube to get the leak fixed. It was a huge dissappoitment to say the least. Thought I would warn you before you got too far ahead of your self.
the tube only had 2 holes...that was what was confusing me....i feel confident all is well in that area.
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:51 AM
#2297
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:54 AM
#2298
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
I can give you some tips on getting better pictures with your supposedly "better" digital camera. I've noticed that a lot of the point and shoots these days will auto-select ISO level, an seem to enjoy auto-selecting ISO80 or ISO200 when taking pictures of rusty old 'yotas, which results in some real grainy images (or fairly blurry in the case of ISO80). If you still have your camera's manual, flip through it and look at how to turn off the auto-ISO and then set it to at least ISO400, that's usually good enough for nice big and crisp images with a lot of stuff in the foreground.
aye, aye MAG...will do.....will read up on tha.
I really was only making the point that my crappy 4.0 takes really good pics. my son bought the 10.0 and i have an HDD video camera with a 5.0....but of all of them this beat up, cracked, markings-missing about 8 year old camera still does the job.
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:57 AM
#2299
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From: maine
Apr 28, 2010 | 08:59 AM
#2300
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From: Northeast Pennsylvania
so...wow...
put the heat shield back on...
and then frigging argued and struggled to get the intake off of the one stud it was hooked to......was binding real hard at the area where the EGR(or PAIR) tube? meets with the REED VALVE? and was making me unable to maneuver around........sometimes a lighter touch is what is needed, so i stopped struggling and just finessed it off of there.
so here's how it sits now......and I put the water neck back on.....what's with all the RED?....OY!...I may rethink some of this coloring....anyway....
put the heat shield back on...
and then frigging argued and struggled to get the intake off of the one stud it was hooked to......was binding real hard at the area where the EGR(or PAIR) tube? meets with the REED VALVE? and was making me unable to maneuver around........sometimes a lighter touch is what is needed, so i stopped struggling and just finessed it off of there.
so here's how it sits now......and I put the water neck back on.....what's with all the RED?....OY!...I may rethink some of this coloring....anyway....
