Cmurphy

Hi to all,
So for a little background:

My beloved Yota has 175,000mi
Around 135k replaced fuel injector, water pump, timing belt, and tensioner.
Around 140k new clutch, rear main seal, clutch master cylinder, and clutch slave cylinder.
Around 160k rebuilt front end including ball joints, tie rod ends, c-v joints, torsion bars, calipers and rotors, rear springs, shocks on all corners, new wheel bearings front and rear (all done in my own driveway with my own sweat, blood and tears)
173k new front bumper, grill, passenger marker light, bull bar, and HIDs
New starter two weeks ago

Oil changes every 3-4k (rotela 15-40w)
Transmission, front and rear diff, and t-case fluid changed every 25-30k

Essentially what I'm trying to say is it's well maintained but driven hard. I got this truck with 118k in great condition through my brother in-law from the original owners (neighbors) who had it as 3rd vehicle. It definitely has wear and tear on interior and exterior.
So today I took it to the shop because my mileage has slipped to 12-13MPG and my power is in the pits. The problem is a burnt exhaust valve.

Now my question, do I rebuild the 3.0? Do I spend the bucks on a 3.4 swap? Or do I go with what I really want, 96-97 Land Cruiser?

Keep in mind either way if I keep my 4 Runner I will SAS it and go all the way (lockers, body armor, wench, duel batteries, etc.)

Through LC Engineering all the parts to rebuild my 3.0 including new heads, balance fuel injectors, electric fan, yada yada yada, is about $2500.

I got quoted just to do a valve job $1300.
or $700-800 to replace just the one burnt valve

Obviously a 3.4 swap is not the cheaper side of things but greatly desired (maybe super charged.)

As far as the Land Cruiser I am not immediately in the position to buy a car because my credit sucks but I could pull it off. Not to mention that I'm very attached to my beloved Yota and I couldn't see selling and or junking this truck.

What to do? Any input is appreciated!

NH Mudder

700-800$ to me seems very high. Now I'm not a machinist, nor a technician, But I do work for an automotive store, and we have our own machine shop. I think most of the money coming from that quote to replace just the burnt valve is labor, I couldn't see a M/S charging very much at all to replace and seat one valve. I know mine doesn't. I think if you are capable of pulling the head yourself, having a machine shop replace that valve and doing the work yourself, you would be saving yourself a ton of money. Personally I would do that, and save for a 3.4 and still drive in the meantime.

4Voigt's

I say dig in and pull the heads off yourself and take and have them done. you will save money and learn a little more mechanical knowledge in doing so.

smithoman

I was just quoted prices in the Phoenix, AZ area for $350 to exchange the heads. I'd pull the heads and trade them in for a rebuilt pair. Or have them redone, that was also around $350. You've still got 100K to go on that motor.

Buck87

Good advice. That is what I always end up doing with the beaters I buy. Great experience.

Cmurphy

I love wrenchin on my truck and learning, but I'm a pipeliner and so my hours are I'm at work pretty much anytime its day light right now. And im staying in my travel trailer with a gravel driveway. Just changing my stater was a PITA. Anyway, the guy that quoted those prices seemed like he really had no desire workin on a "foreign" car anyway. I think im gonna take it to this guy that specializes in Toyota's on Easter weekend. thanks for the encouragement.

jbtvt

If it weren't for having to pull the intake manifold, a valve job is pretty straightforward. Odds are that it's your #6 that burned, which is easy to get to, right in front of the driver. You can pull the cover one day, get the measurement you need for a shim and order it, and then install it a few days later, all in a couple hours max. To do the passenger side is another story, but probably not critical... yet. It's amazing the boost in compression just having the right size shim in there will give, I'd hold off on the valve job till after you shim it and see how it feels, may not even need it done.

Kalihi,HI

Great advice from different perspectives. I know this is an old thread, but I'm currently in a similar situation and need advice before main a very expensive decision. A mechanic told me I have a misfire in cylinder 2 but he doesn't know why. The cylinder builds pressure same as the other cylinders, but it leaks according to the leak down test. What are the possible causes of the misfire? A tune-up has been done, wires checked, spark plugs checked.

Buck87

Check the injectors and the injector wiring.