New to the forum and really need some help. My buddy and I recently took apart my 89 Toyota 4runner with the 22re, because it had a blown head gasket. Took the head to the machine shop had it cleaned, shaved and pressure tested and it was all good. Replaced the head bolts followed torque pattern to 58ft/lbs, put the engine back together added new oil added a new radiator and we flushed the system using prestone radiator flush because the car had sat for a year. We had replaced the thermostat as well. After the flush we changed all the fluids, and got the care tuned and timed. We let the car idle for 10-20 mins after everything and car ran cold. After the idle period I drove it back home and after driving for about 25 mins the car was getting hot so I shut it down when it was at the top of the white arc. There was residual gunk in the radiator, a gurling sound as if the coolant was flowing backwards if that's even possible and the oil was murky and gunk in the top part of the oil cap. I thought I blew the head gasket again.
Part two was a little easier getting everything off again replaced the head gasket cleaned up thermostat, put a new water pump on, reflushed everything retimed and tuned then let it idle for 15 mins and it stayed cool. During the same drive home 25 mins in the car is about to over heat again. I shut it down at the top of the white arc let it cool, turn it on, add coolant to the radiator drive it home just before almost having to shut it down again.
I'm totally lost why my car keeps overheating. I really need my 4runner and I am having separation issues with letting it go, but the wife has thrown in the towel. Please any advice is appreciated.
Swan

 

Google "22re over heating" or "burping a 22re coling system"

 

1. Rent a pressure tester from the local auto parts store and fix the leaks on all of the brand new water hoses that I assume you installed on your engine and head. 2. Burp the system using a spill free funnel.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp.../dp/B001A4EAV0

 

The radiators in these trucks get alot of rust and gunk built up in them. A Preston flush kit wont get all of the stuff out. Have it professionally flushed where they can use high pressure. The shop I use I have to pull the radiator out and they charge $25 to do it. I have seen it drop the guage as much as a 1/4 of where it normally ran before it was flushed.

How is the cooling fan clutch? Is it working properly? Like was mentioned, burp the system. I use a floor jack and lift the front end as high as it will go. Usually I can get the radiator cap to shoulder level and I am 6 foot tall. Let it run for 20 mins or so with the cap off and it will help get the air out of the back of the engine.

Does your runner have the back seat heater option? If so try using the Part # 90916-03070 for Dual Stage Themostat that you can get from Toyota.

How is your timing? Are you jumping T1/E1 and setting it to 5 degress? To far advanced will cause it to run hot.

I see you changed water pumps, just make sure it is flowing and none of your water hoses are collapsing.

Check and see if your radiator cap is good and that it has good air flow thru the radiator. Also did you reinstall your fan shroud or is it even there? Some times previous owners will leave them off.

 

Sounds like air pockets to me.

If your not aware of this problem it can drive you crazy.

 

ok thanks a lot going to go try and burb it. Unfortunately we did not replace many hoses, I know we replaced the hose running from the top of the radiator to the thermostat. Thats about it.
terrys87: it doesnt have the back seat heater option, and I'm not sure what your refering to about T1/E1 setting. Also how will I know if the fan clutch is working properly.
I did put back the original shroud around the fan.
Another problem I ran into was the car ran a lot slower than usual. I was taking it easy on the car on the drive, but I could not get the car to go above 55 downhill on the interstate in 5th. My buddy thinks it could be a clogged catalaic converter, what do yall think?
What does it mean if the oil has got a murky color to it?
Also we completely had changed the radiator because the original was rusted and clogged.

 

Cracked head or block or head gasket.

 

Good place for timing info is 4crawler.com, plus there is a lot of other good info on the site.

 

To set the timing and to pull codes, you use a paperclip in like what is in the top picture for yours. The older style is on the bottom, just posting it for others.

I have had clogged converters to fuel filters to not letting a tuck run to its full potential.
Codes... http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...es/index.shtml

How to get Check Engine Codes. I just put this up for others. Applies to 87 and up. 86 and older is the bottom picture.


The Diagnostic port for the 85-86 is on the Drivers side inner fender and is nothing the same as the 87 and up. Here is T1 and E1 jumped. The codes and engine flashes are the same as the rest of the trucks on the dash.


Codes...http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...es/index.shtml