i have an 88 Toyota and its driving me mad atm. it doesn't want to start after its warmed up. it cranks fine when the engine is cold, ill drive it and it warms up to normal temps but when i turn her off she does not restart, it will crank just doesnt start.once the engine cools off about 15-30 min i can put the key in and she will turn right over. i just replaced the starter relay. and let me say there is nothing worse then payin 180. bucks on a part that doesnt fix the problem.

88 toyota 4x4
22RE motor

can anyone help with possible solutions?

 

Its your ignition switch. the '88 routes starter power through the steering colunm switch vice from a relay.

Hot wire the starter from inside, or buy a switch and just move the lock clyinder from the old to new.

 

i know its not the ignition switch, thats has already been wired to bypass the starter relay, thats what originally led me to the starter relay. it tries to start just doesnt. it only cranks not starts when the motor warms up.

 

1.disconnect the maf connector and the air intake tubing from the throttle body and see if it starts and idles should die if you open the throttle in this test configuration though, also if the maf air vane is stuck it will start and idle for a about 1 -3 seconds than die

2.I cant think of anything temperature Dependant except a messed up coolant temperature sensor note thats is not the same as the temperature sender used by the temp gauge
to get around this problem disconnect the cold start injector on the side of the intake manifold if the engine thinks its cold it maybe flooding it with fuel............also if the engine thinks its not warmed up it will run like crap all the time wasting fuel because until the temp comes up the computer stays in open loop mode, which makes starting more complicated for a warm engine

3. check for spark by removing the main coil from the distributor and arcing it to ground watch to see if the sparks are evenly spaced and of the same intensity. semi-conductor components will often work at room temperature and fail at elevated operating temperatures causing irrational operation.

4. kick the gas tank real hard a few times, if your fuel pumps brushes are warn out, a lot of times a shock will momentary cause them to make contact again, a long shot but worth a try since i cant think of a thermal a reason for a fuel pump to misbehave
and if you still think its the fuel pump, inject small amounts of fuel into the throttle body to see if it fires, with say a spray bottle or the like while an assistant cranks.

sorry cant think of anything else other than start disconnecting electrical connectors and reconnecting them to break up bad connections that may be aggravated by heat (thermal expansion)

warm ecm?

good luck

 

That sounds like the classic fuel injector time switch. It runs off coolant tempature at the throttle body. You will have to ohm it out to see if it's working. 4crawler should have the test for it on his site.

If the switch is gone, then it reads the engine is always cold and dumps in fuel causing a flooded engine - won't start. When it sits, the coolant cools and it works normaly.

There not cheap though...

 

ok wow :/ im gonna have to get with my friend who does most the work on it as i know alil but not all this, least he will know what yall r talkin about. i read another forum on another site another person was having the same issue his turned out to b a efi relay.

question... my friend said that when the mech i took it to to put a new motor in (note i didnt have this problem till after i got it back from having a new motor and rear end put in it . ) anywho he said that the mech didnt do my vacuum lines right will that cause this problem?

all i really know since this has gotten beyond my knowledge is its frustrating. i love my truck but if im not gonna b somewhere at least 20 min so it can cool off i aint drivin it she tries to start just wont make it that final catch to run

does the starter on the 88 22re need a heat shield? i know that will cause a no start when hot issue.

ok thank u all so much for the input i will pass it on to my friend and let yall know when i finally figure it out. if u think of anything else please let me know.

 

stick to the small parts on top of the motor, thats where your problems is its not the starter..........

 

Take a look here at post 6

open the attachment, its a TSB which may help you out with your hard warm start:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ooster-239789/

and no its not your brake booster but this is were the info was posted

 

UPDATE: ok so i was checking the plugs after getting the truck to normal running temp to c if by chance it was flooding out when it got warm (starting with simple stuff first). i pulled a plug which it still looks new it wasnt wet and NOT flooding. after putting the plug back in i just got a feeling to try and start the truck it fired right up. curious i turned it off and tried to start it again and it wouldnt start. (now this is all while the motor is hot)

so i thought no way, so i pulled the plug again and replaced it then turned the key and it fired right up. so i decided to test the coil by pulling the plug wire with the engin running and it didnt quit or misfire just bogged down and made a tick tick tick noise while the plug wire was off which stopped when i replaced the wire. so i went and had teh coil resistance tested..it was alil off so replaced teh coil being it didnt test right.

so here is the sitch. motor cold it fires right up........
motor warm (normal operating temp) it will crank but doesnt start......
pull a plug with the motor warm and put the plug back in it fires right up....
but if i turn it off again it wont restart i have to pull the plug, put it back in, it starts....

WTF this is stumping the crap out of me now

 

What have you done to test the cold start injector time switch?

 

Ok... that sounds bizarre.

You pull a spark plug wire and put it back on and it starts? The ticking noise is the HV spark jumping to ground somewhere.

You pull the CSI plug and put it back on and it starts?

Do you turn the truck off completely? resting the ECU? Ie pull the battery cable?

I have an '88 22RE, motor is blown to bits but I have had it for 23yrs. Trying to picture what you are doing.

 

Change ur igniter its on top pf ur coil. That should fix it. And the coil if u get one put of a junk yard.

 

there is no electronic reason for a truck to start after making a physical change such as allowing the cylinder or plug to be exposed to air or moved.

I offer 2 thoughts

1 it really is flooded and taking a plug out allows dry time, not likely
2 the time it takes for you to play around with the plugs allows cool down time for the offending part..............to work again I.E. a thermal expanded semi conductor failure or thermal switch