88 dlx, 22re, at. Was running great, took off from a stop light and it quit . Checked compression, timing, has spark, AFM good, igniter good, injector resistor good, fuel pump good, cor good, new plugs wires, ignition coil, new distributor, and the ecm is good. Took to local imports shop and they could not solve. Grounds under hood all check good, fuses good. I jumped go and fuel pump works . Cold start injects fuel, fuel filter is ok. Fuel pressure is good. Auto shop said injectors will not continue to spray after cranking, will start for 2 seconds. Then die. There is a code 14 but after extensive research and forum suggestions all possible parts check out good. Only thing left is a broken wire?? Fuses all check out good too. I’m loss, what could to the problem. All help appreciated. Thanks Yotatech!

 

so I’ve tried everything up down over and out even took it to a local shop import autos only been in business 30 years they cannot figure it out either. Problem seems to be injector/fuel will not stay on. They’re at a loss they tried every part that I didn’t try, igniter to COR . And more Checked the whole ignition system. Still no cure. I need help. I need a shop in the St. Louis Missouri area that has the knowledge to get my 88 22re DLX back on the road. Much appreciated to anyhow, with someone in my area my truck back on the road. It’s snowing here. I miss it. Thanks to alll. P.s. a month before it went out. I put a new complete exhaust system on from exhaust down pipe to tail pipe. This should not affect the ignition system shouldn’t?

 

Have you been able to watch the fuel pressure with a gauge while it is running?

 

Shop said fuel pressure was good. was told the problem is keeping the fuel pump running once. It kicks over shop said it shuts off immediately. But engine run strong if manually injecting fuel. something is not letting the fuel pump continue to run??

 

It sounds like either the COR relay, or the switch inside the the AFM. The switch can be checked easily with a multimeter, on ohm setting. Check the FSM for a schematic. If the switch checks good, it's the COR.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Both cor and AFM check out good

 

What I really need is 1st gen expert mechanic in my area

 

I’ve seen parts test good but still not work. The relay is cheap enough to swap out for a new one.

 

That will be the next thing I do though it’s going to get expensive buying a new cor AFM igniter already bough a new distributor to eliminate that.
thanks for your input

 

The Cor is $40 from Rockauto for a Denso.

 

It was the igf Blk/white strip wire #5, back probed with new test wire to igniter, (which is the gray wire), igf wire at the ECU to the gray wire at igniter. Fired right up. I will run a new wire for the quick fix, but somewhere in the 3wire bundle that goes over the valve cover into the main harness the wire is broke! When I have more time I will try to find the broken wire to fix.This wire seems to be the most important wire for injectors to fire. Injectors will not ground to fire without this wire connection. Definitely try this before buying new parts like I did. Distributor, ECU, injector resistor, air flow meter, sensors and 50 hrs + labor and research. Thank you yotatech members who shared your own troubles, pics, and knowledge to make this fix possible. 1988 4Runner dlx 22re auto

 

looking back at it, the shop noticed that the injectors weren't firing, which is easy to test with a noid light, or even just a screwdriver transmitting the sound of the injector clicking.

back probing wire doesn't always work, because it only takes a strand or two of wire to carry enough current for an ohm meter to show a complete connection... i had to go thru that with the corroded undocumented hack job that toyota did on the injector wiring, it looked like this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-2...-i-had.311436/

keep us posted on what you find when you cut that harness open.

 

Well after 35+ years the heat caught up to these wires. As you can see one of the 3 wire bundle is corroded and broke, the others don’t look long for the world. The one that broke had a crimped connection for some reason? That eventually broke. Close up pics tell the story.

Igf wire break

Igf wire break2

Igf wire break3

 

Stumbled on this thread in my research. I am thinking I may be having a spliced harness issue as well, but what is meant here by igf wire? What does igf stand for?

 

“igniter from”. if you have a code 14, IGF wire is supposed to send a signal to the computer stating spark fired at least six times consecutively, which will signal to switch on the fuel pump . to eliminate, backprobe the iGF wire at the computer and connect wire from your back Probe clip across your engine to igniter igf wire. if this is the problem it will start. if you have a code 14? Don’t Just do a continuity check. For one little strand of wire could carry enough voltage to say good,


but the wire could be broken. oh, also is your spark plugs black and dry/running rich? If So the another problem could be that air flow meter. You can get one for 100 bucks on eBay. Good luck. Wired problems are the worst and time consuming, nice truck it’ll be worth it if you find the problem.