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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

88 22re one click no crank

Old 06-06-2017, 07:14 PM
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88 22re one click no crank

[/QUOTE]
Ouch! How did you bypass the clutch cancel switch? You did not feed it positive 12V, did you? It goes on the ground side of the relay so it should not be fed +12V
Anyway, to be safe until you troubleshoot the no-crank and the clutch safety cancel switch, simply disconnect clutch safety cancel, and get used to using the clutch safety switch*.

Which solenoid wire? When I do my post I make the effort to post pics to help others understand what I'm doing. The least you could do is help me see what you have in front of you.

Anyway, let's eat the elephant one little bit at a time ... Let's test your starter solenoid first... Procedure is here. Pls keep me posted.. Best if you could start a post on your own thread. We'll continue discussion there.

*Of course, if it were mine, I'd just bypass the clutch safety switch because my routine is always:
Park in Gear,
Put in Neutral before I start,
Leave in Neutral as I make adjustments to my seatbelt, seat, mirrors, visor, 50-cal (LOL!), etc to let engine oil circulate for a few seconds...
Drive off[/QUOTE]

I will say that I have run a jumper wire from battery positive to the male spade connector on the solenoid. It isn't always instant but it does start.

I also did not bypass the clutch cancel. I actually tried to bypass the relay by running a wire across terminal 4 wire and the black and white wire on the harness.

I probably need to clean the spade connectors for the solenoid since they are not shiny.
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Old 06-06-2017, 08:05 PM
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Ouch! How did you bypass the clutch cancel switch? You did not feed it positive 12V, did you? It goes on the ground side of the relay so it should not be fed +12V
Anyway, to be safe until you troubleshoot the no-crank and the clutch safety cancel switch, simply disconnect clutch safety cancel, and get used to using the clutch safety switch*.

Which solenoid wire? When I do my post I make the effort to post pics to help others understand what I'm doing. The least you could do is help me see what you have in front of you.

Anyway, let's eat the elephant one little bit at a time ... Let's test your starter solenoid first... Procedure is here. Pls keep me posted.. Best if you could start a post on your own thread. We'll continue discussion there.

*Of course, if it were mine, I'd just bypass the clutch safety switch because my routine is always:
Park in Gear,
Put in Neutral before I start,
Leave in Neutral as I make adjustments to my seatbelt, seat, mirrors, visor, 50-cal (LOL!), etc to let engine oil circulate for a few seconds...
Drive off[/QUOTE]

I will say that I have run a jumper wire from battery positive to the male spade connector on the solenoid. It isn't always instant but it does start..... I probably need to clean the spade connectors for the solenoid since they are not shiny....
Nothing is instant. You have to tell us solenoid clunked ENERGETICALLY or not?
If not shiny, it's not good enough. Yes, clean the contacts. Otherwise, we'd be wasting our time suspecting, instead of doing something.

I actually tried to bypass the relay by running a wire across terminal 4 wire and the black and white wire on the harness.
That is still not good enough because the current needed to energize the starter solenoid coil (12-amps) is still passing through your ignition switch and possibly 15 feet of wire before it gets to your starter solenoid coil. (I explained this in my post.) WHY NOT DO EXACTLY THIS SO WE SAVE TIME?

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-06-2017 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 06-07-2017, 02:53 AM
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go ahead and pay attention to what RAD is explaining. by troubleshooting/testing, he will help you figure out the click, no-start issue. i have made the wiring alteration, in addition to removing the dimmer switch stalk and disassembling to clean its contacts. trouble-free starting for over a year.

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Old 06-09-2017, 01:28 AM
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So I went back to do more testing and jumped off the starter. It definitely clunks energetically so I don't believe that is the problem
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Old 06-09-2017, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Murderousbubble View Post
So I went back to do more testing and jumped off the starter. It definitely clunks energetically so I don't believe that is the problem
The solenoid clunked energetically... and what else? If you want us to help you, you need to help us see what you have in front of you. After it clunked, what else happened? What did you see, hear, feel, smell (no smoke I hope - LOL!)

Originally Posted by wallytoo View Post
go ahead and pay attention to what RAD is explaining. by troubleshooting/testing, he will help you figure out the click, no-start issue. i have made the wiring alteration, in addition to removing the dimmer switch stalk and disassembling to clean its contacts. trouble-free starting for over a year.
wally
Thanks, Wally.

Murderousbubble,
STARTER RELAY WAS WIRED WRONG AT THE FACTORY. HERE'S HOW TO FIX IT.
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Old 06-10-2017, 04:09 PM
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Sorry, the solenoid clunked and it spun over and even started the vehicle. I have already rewired the relay and fed it to battery positive with a 30 amp inline fuse. The starter still does nothing when I turn the key..... relay clicks, a high pitched whining noise is present, and that it.

I tested the starter relay by applying power to it and checking resistance across the switch side. The resistance was 0.01 but I'm still curious to know if the relay is allowing current to pass through.

I also ran a voltage drop test across the ignition switch contacts AM1 and ST1. The voltage drop test was good because the reading was very low.

Last edited by Murderousbubble; 06-10-2017 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 06-11-2017, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Murderousbubble View Post
Sorry, the solenoid clunked and it spun over and even started the vehicle. I have already rewired the relay and fed it to battery positive with a 30 amp inline fuse.
Good!

The starter still does nothing when I turn the key..... relay clicks, a high pitched whining noise is present, and that it.
Gotta be detailed, Man. Might cost an arm and a leg to fly from San Diego to listen and find out where those sounds are coming from
When you turned the key:
EXACTLY what relay clicks? Starter relay? Circuit Opening Relay? Starter solenoid clunked energetically?
Exactly where is the noise comping from?

I tested the starter relay by applying power to it and checking resistance across the switch side. The resistance was 0.01 but I'm still curious to know if the relay is allowing current to pass through.
Acros the switch side or across the contacts? A low resistance does not mean it can handle 12 amps needed to energize the solenoid.
The better way to check the relay is to energize it with load (starter solenoid in neutral) on, then read the voltage across the contacts. Repeat: mult-meter in volt mode, negative probe on load side of contact, positive probe on positive side of contact.

I also ran a voltage drop test across the ignition switch contacts AM1 and ST1. The voltage drop test was good because the reading was very low.
I do not think it is the ignition switch

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-11-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 06-11-2017, 10:45 AM
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One more thing:
Ground from battery positive to engine block good? Bare, clean, shiny metal tightly making contact with bare,clean, shiny metal?
If not. Solenoid would still get 12-Amps needed for it to actuate energetically, but starter MOTOR will not get the CRANKING AMPS it needs to turn the engine.
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Old 06-11-2017, 11:03 AM
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When I turn the key to the start position the starter relay clicks and the starter solenoid does nothing. I'm honestly not sure where the whining noise is coming from but i'll let you know next time at at the shop.

I don't understand how to put a load on the relay when I test it because the relay has to be unplugged when I apply power to it??

The ground also looked good but I can definitely pull it off and clean it.

Last edited by Murderousbubble; 06-11-2017 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 06-11-2017, 06:40 PM
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Did you re-connect the spade connector to starter solenoid after you got done doing the test?

The ground also looked good but I can definitely pull it off and clean it.
Looking good does not mean a thing.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-11-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 03-03-2019, 10:07 AM
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Any update? If u fixed the problem, the least u could do is share the experience so others may learn from it.
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