88 22re one click no crank
#1
88 22re one click no crank
[/QUOTE]
Ouch! How did you bypass the clutch cancel switch? You did not feed it positive 12V, did you? It goes on the ground side of the relay so it should not be fed +12V
Anyway, to be safe until you troubleshoot the no-crank and the clutch safety cancel switch, simply disconnect clutch safety cancel, and get used to using the clutch safety switch*.
Which solenoid wire? When I do my post I make the effort to post pics to help others understand what I'm doing. The least you could do is help me see what you have in front of you.
Anyway, let's eat the elephant one little bit at a time ... Let's test your starter solenoid first... Procedure is here. Pls keep me posted.. Best if you could start a post on your own thread. We'll continue discussion there.
*Of course, if it were mine, I'd just bypass the clutch safety switch because my routine is always:
Park in Gear,
Put in Neutral before I start,
Leave in Neutral as I make adjustments to my seatbelt, seat, mirrors, visor, 50-cal (LOL!), etc to let engine oil circulate for a few seconds...
Drive off[/QUOTE]
I will say that I have run a jumper wire from battery positive to the male spade connector on the solenoid. It isn't always instant but it does start.
I also did not bypass the clutch cancel. I actually tried to bypass the relay by running a wire across terminal 4 wire and the black and white wire on the harness.
I probably need to clean the spade connectors for the solenoid since they are not shiny.
Ouch! How did you bypass the clutch cancel switch? You did not feed it positive 12V, did you? It goes on the ground side of the relay so it should not be fed +12V
Anyway, to be safe until you troubleshoot the no-crank and the clutch safety cancel switch, simply disconnect clutch safety cancel, and get used to using the clutch safety switch*.
Which solenoid wire? When I do my post I make the effort to post pics to help others understand what I'm doing. The least you could do is help me see what you have in front of you.
Anyway, let's eat the elephant one little bit at a time ... Let's test your starter solenoid first... Procedure is here. Pls keep me posted.. Best if you could start a post on your own thread. We'll continue discussion there.
*Of course, if it were mine, I'd just bypass the clutch safety switch because my routine is always:
Park in Gear,
Put in Neutral before I start,
Leave in Neutral as I make adjustments to my seatbelt, seat, mirrors, visor, 50-cal (LOL!), etc to let engine oil circulate for a few seconds...
Drive off[/QUOTE]
I will say that I have run a jumper wire from battery positive to the male spade connector on the solenoid. It isn't always instant but it does start.
I also did not bypass the clutch cancel. I actually tried to bypass the relay by running a wire across terminal 4 wire and the black and white wire on the harness.
I probably need to clean the spade connectors for the solenoid since they are not shiny.
#2
Ouch! How did you bypass the clutch cancel switch? You did not feed it positive 12V, did you? It goes on the ground side of the relay so it should not be fed +12V
Anyway, to be safe until you troubleshoot the no-crank and the clutch safety cancel switch, simply disconnect clutch safety cancel, and get used to using the clutch safety switch*.
Which solenoid wire? When I do my post I make the effort to post pics to help others understand what I'm doing. The least you could do is help me see what you have in front of you.
Anyway, let's eat the elephant one little bit at a time ... Let's test your starter solenoid first... Procedure is here. Pls keep me posted.. Best if you could start a post on your own thread. We'll continue discussion there.
*Of course, if it were mine, I'd just bypass the clutch safety switch because my routine is always:
Park in Gear,
Put in Neutral before I start,
Leave in Neutral as I make adjustments to my seatbelt, seat, mirrors, visor, 50-cal (LOL!), etc to let engine oil circulate for a few seconds...
Drive off[/QUOTE]
Nothing is instant. You have to tell us solenoid clunked ENERGETICALLY or not?
If not shiny, it's not good enough. Yes, clean the contacts. Otherwise, we'd be wasting our time suspecting, instead of doing something.
That is still not good enough because the current needed to energize the starter solenoid coil (12-amps) is still passing through your ignition switch and possibly 15 feet of wire before it gets to your starter solenoid coil. (I explained this in my post.) WHY NOT DO EXACTLY THIS SO WE SAVE TIME?
Anyway, to be safe until you troubleshoot the no-crank and the clutch safety cancel switch, simply disconnect clutch safety cancel, and get used to using the clutch safety switch*.
Which solenoid wire? When I do my post I make the effort to post pics to help others understand what I'm doing. The least you could do is help me see what you have in front of you.
Anyway, let's eat the elephant one little bit at a time ... Let's test your starter solenoid first... Procedure is here. Pls keep me posted.. Best if you could start a post on your own thread. We'll continue discussion there.
*Of course, if it were mine, I'd just bypass the clutch safety switch because my routine is always:
Park in Gear,
Put in Neutral before I start,
Leave in Neutral as I make adjustments to my seatbelt, seat, mirrors, visor, 50-cal (LOL!), etc to let engine oil circulate for a few seconds...
Drive off[/QUOTE]
I will say that I have run a jumper wire from battery positive to the male spade connector on the solenoid. It isn't always instant but it does start..... I probably need to clean the spade connectors for the solenoid since they are not shiny....
If not shiny, it's not good enough. Yes, clean the contacts. Otherwise, we'd be wasting our time suspecting, instead of doing something.
I actually tried to bypass the relay by running a wire across terminal 4 wire and the black and white wire on the harness.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-06-2017 at 08:06 PM.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
go ahead and pay attention to what RAD is explaining. by troubleshooting/testing, he will help you figure out the click, no-start issue. i have made the wiring alteration, in addition to removing the dimmer switch stalk and disassembling to clean its contacts. trouble-free starting for over a year.
wally
wally
#5
go ahead and pay attention to what RAD is explaining. by troubleshooting/testing, he will help you figure out the click, no-start issue. i have made the wiring alteration, in addition to removing the dimmer switch stalk and disassembling to clean its contacts. trouble-free starting for over a year.
wally
wally
Murderousbubble,
STARTER RELAY WAS WIRED WRONG AT THE FACTORY. HERE'S HOW TO FIX IT.
#6
Sorry, the solenoid clunked and it spun over and even started the vehicle. I have already rewired the relay and fed it to battery positive with a 30 amp inline fuse. The starter still does nothing when I turn the key..... relay clicks, a high pitched whining noise is present, and that it.
I tested the starter relay by applying power to it and checking resistance across the switch side. The resistance was 0.01 but I'm still curious to know if the relay is allowing current to pass through.
I also ran a voltage drop test across the ignition switch contacts AM1 and ST1. The voltage drop test was good because the reading was very low.
I tested the starter relay by applying power to it and checking resistance across the switch side. The resistance was 0.01 but I'm still curious to know if the relay is allowing current to pass through.
I also ran a voltage drop test across the ignition switch contacts AM1 and ST1. The voltage drop test was good because the reading was very low.
Last edited by Murderousbubble; 06-10-2017 at 05:22 PM.
#7
The starter still does nothing when I turn the key..... relay clicks, a high pitched whining noise is present, and that it.
When you turned the key:
EXACTLY what relay clicks? Starter relay? Circuit Opening Relay? Starter solenoid clunked energetically?
Exactly where is the noise comping from?
I tested the starter relay by applying power to it and checking resistance across the switch side. The resistance was 0.01 but I'm still curious to know if the relay is allowing current to pass through.
The better way to check the relay is to energize it with load (starter solenoid in neutral) on, then read the voltage across the contacts. Repeat: mult-meter in volt mode, negative probe on load side of contact, positive probe on positive side of contact.
I also ran a voltage drop test across the ignition switch contacts AM1 and ST1. The voltage drop test was good because the reading was very low.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-11-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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#8
One more thing:
Ground from battery positive to engine block good? Bare, clean, shiny metal tightly making contact with bare,clean, shiny metal?
If not. Solenoid would still get 12-Amps needed for it to actuate energetically, but starter MOTOR will not get the CRANKING AMPS it needs to turn the engine.
Ground from battery positive to engine block good? Bare, clean, shiny metal tightly making contact with bare,clean, shiny metal?
If not. Solenoid would still get 12-Amps needed for it to actuate energetically, but starter MOTOR will not get the CRANKING AMPS it needs to turn the engine.
#9
When I turn the key to the start position the starter relay clicks and the starter solenoid does nothing. I'm honestly not sure where the whining noise is coming from but i'll let you know next time at at the shop.
I don't understand how to put a load on the relay when I test it because the relay has to be unplugged when I apply power to it??
The ground also looked good but I can definitely pull it off and clean it.
I don't understand how to put a load on the relay when I test it because the relay has to be unplugged when I apply power to it??
The ground also looked good but I can definitely pull it off and clean it.
Last edited by Murderousbubble; 06-11-2017 at 11:12 AM.
#10
Did you re-connect the spade connector to starter solenoid after you got done doing the test?
Looking good does not mean a thing.
The ground also looked good but I can definitely pull it off and clean it.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-11-2017 at 06:44 PM.
#11
Any update? If u fixed the problem, the least u could do is share the experience so others may learn from it.