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Anyone have 1-2 cargo carpet trim end cap (just the gray plastic thing on the end of the metal trim piece) laying around. I’ve got 2 good ones and 1 that is repairable. See pic below - it’s a small piece that is hard to describe.
This piece and a gray SR5 Drivers Kick panel are all I have left to source.
Last edited by Charles4x4; Jul 21, 2018 at 04:49 AM.
Wrapping up small stuff. Sourced the 4 rear seat hinge covers, rear seat cargo carpet trim end cap, 3 OEM lug nuts with caps, engine bay splash guards, and passenger seat upper fabric (will sub in for my drivers seat town bottom fabric).
All came from a nice guy in IN with 3 first gen 4Runners in his barn! Barn Find.
I might have the carpeted kickpanel. I have an 87 turbo also I hope to be driving sometime. I like to hoard parts but I will check my stash. Are you attending the Barber Vintage event in October in Leeds? I need to get my windows back on track and bolted in (PO has it dissassembled?) and feed my turbo water. Any extra turbo radiators over your way or know where to get a quality 1 3/8-1 3/8-1/2 tee to splice into the top hose?
I might have the carpeted kickpanel. I have an 87 turbo also I hope to be driving sometime. I like to hoard parts but I will check my stash. Are you attending the Barber Vintage event in October in Leeds? I need to get my windows back on track and bolted in (PO has it dissassembled?) and feed my turbo water. Any extra turbo radiators over your way or know where to get a quality 1 3/8-1 3/8-1/2 tee to splice into the top hose?
If you have a gray SR5 carpeted kick plate, let me know. Barber in Oct sounds fun - I need to look up the details as i’ve never been.
No no luck on the OEM radiator. If it doesn’t go on the 4Runner, it gets sold. I have very few extra parts.
Contacted all the 1st gen sellers on Ebay and after 3 weeks convinced one to sell me a rear non-step bumper, brackets, corners, and all hardware (I’m not a fan of the step version or aftermarket options).
This was a big one to check off the list!
Last edited by Charles4x4; Jul 21, 2018 at 03:33 PM.
Contacted all the 1st gen sellers on Ebay and after 31 weeks convinces one to sell me a rear non-step bumper, brackets, corners, and hardware (I’m not a fan of the step version or aftermarket options).
This was a big one to check off the list!
Nice score!
OEM examples are hard to find, and almost impossible to find one that has not rusted through or bent beyond reasonable repair.
You got extra lucky with all of the brackets and hardware!
OEM examples are hard to find, and almost impossible to find one that has not rusted through or bent beyond reasonable repair.
You got extra lucky with all of the brackets and hardware!
Thanks! Took a 2-month nightly search for the bumper! Of course, the day after I purchased it, another one popped up on CraigsList but it didn’t have brackets or hardware.
I posted when I bought mine a little while back, not much feedback for me. I have been procrastinating on getting it street ready but you're an inspiration. I am nx door in the peach state. I bought mine out of AL. Drove it and trailered it. Since you are compiling info here I will share the solenoids from 2wd 2nd gens are the same in the autos, just no transfer solenoid in the rear case. The 95 ones got me shifting, Rockauto listings coincide as well. I had a 2wd 1995 3.0 I bought cheap and trying to improve blew a head gasket when flushing radiator. If I am spending money it will be on a first gen. 87 would not shift down so it was trying to start off in 3rd. Manually shifting it would drive. I have not driven it except to see if it shifts. I like your idea of window operation at all times. Did you just take the present + 12V and provide ground at all times regardless of switch position. My understanding is Toyota provides the hot constant and uses the ground to switch it. I know polarity changes for up/down.t would be nice to have a drawing of what you do. Are you elimating the wiondow relay behind the dash? Also the turbo radiator has an 1/2 outlet on the drivers side to feed the turbo and mine has been replaced. Obsolete from Toyota. If you find one hook me up. Also are you sending your fuel gauge sender to NY? More questions: What did you paint the steering wheel with? Both my front windows have problems and my drivers mirror glass is broken. I saw where you cut one from the junkyard. I got lucky on some aspects of mine, even the jack stuff was complete. Sorry for the long post, I will post a link to barber and my 87 rear. https://www.barbermuseum.org/events/...k/attractions/
I like your idea of window operation at all times. Did you just take the present + 12V and provide ground at all times regardless of switch position. My understanding is Toyota provides the hot constant and uses the ground to switch it. I know polarity changes for up/down.t would be nice to have a drawing of what you do. Are you elimating the wiondow relay behind the dash?
I am not sure - the PO did the "window always operational" mod. I looked at in disassembly and he just used a wire to connect two prongs in the female connector. I'd take a pic, but the truck is still at Paint/Body.
I'm sure someone else has posted this mod on the forum somewhere?
Originally Posted by papawhellie
Also the turbo radiator has an 1/2 outlet on the drivers side to feed the turbo and mine has been replaced. Obsolete from Toyota. If you find one hook me up.
If I find one, I'll let you know!
Originally Posted by papawhellie
Also are you sending your fuel gauge sender to NY?
Both of my first 2 Turbos had this issue. Luckily this Turbo's sender (and most other things) is pristine. I did recommend the PO of the Gray one (2nd one I've owned) send the sender to NY, but not sure if he did once he got it back to CO.
Originally Posted by papawhellie
What did you paint the steering wheel with?
The same SAP interior paint shown earlier in this build thread. Held up really nice on the prior Gray Turbo.
Originally Posted by papawhellie
Both my front windows have problems and my drivers mirror glass is broken. I saw where you cut one from the junkyard. I got lucky on some aspects of mine, even the jack stuff was complete.
My 2nd Turbo had this issue and I cut salvage glass to fit. Luckily this Turbo's mirrors (and most other things) are pristine.
Thanks! Took a 2-month nightly search for the bumper! Of course, the day after I purchased it, another one popped up on CraigsList but it didn’t have brackets or hardware.
Only 2 months! Lucky guy. It took me more than 1 year for the rear bumper end caps, and I got them from different sellers.
I also spoke with the owner of the paint shop today and he said the truck spent 2-weeks getting every single nick and ding out and is now in Primer.
It’ll be done next Monday and ready for pick-up. I then have to wait a few weeks before I put the SR5 graphics on. He said it’ll be flawless when I pick it up.
I’ve heard the Brown metallic is darker than you would think when it is first painted as most on the road today have lightened up over the years. We’ll see how good it looks! Hope it won’t be too dark.
Any pointers on this process? I have to do all mine.
I held a razor blade flat to get stuck-on gunk off (don't let it get vertical as it'll scratch of course). I used a big allen wrench that I could lay down in side the track and hammered it against the garage floor to get out small dents. Then just bend some of the areas back into position.
I'm guessing I'll have to rework some of the sections a little more when I install, but I think the big allen wrench laid down inside the track is the best tip I can give - it made short work of small dents and imperfections while keeping the material flat. Mine aren't perfect, but they are much better than they were.
Last edited by Charles4x4; Jul 24, 2018 at 06:52 AM.
Jul 21, 2018 | 04:48 AM
