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Could someone tell me where I can find information about the factory turbo that came on my 86' 4runner? I believe it is a CT20, but can't confirm where to find this on the turbo currently in my truck. I am pretty sure someone did some swapping (a bigger turbo) but didn't do all the necessary stuff to make it run properly. I have read I could go to a CT26- would there be much swapping or any suggestion on where to look online to get more info on how to. Thanks!
It has a several factory markings. Take and post pictures.
compressor(front)
turbine(back) housing
The downpipe/O2 housing
To tell if it's the truck/4runner look at how the turbine inlet flange sits. The correct part has a taller outside length, the diesel is shorter..
Truck/4runner 22rte turbine housing..
when I try to download a picture I get a bunch of error messages. Do you want a pic or my turbo?
Sure I'll take your turbo if you want to give it away..
sad but true. Ask any random kid to help you sent photos and they can sort you out. No shame in asking for help there, if we are patient enough not to just have them do it they can even teach us old folks. On a random side note, when I was in the wireless store a few weeks ago there were two separate people that came in to have the sales people post photos in text messages for them and I was only there maybe an hour..
We don't need pictures of your turbo unless you're still uncertain what you have. But we do really like to look at other rigs, even the sloppy dirty ones, so give fit a go if you want to.
I left out an identifier I just noticed..
there is a cast part number on the turbine housing on the front side, one of these numbers but I don't recall which mine has. 35040 35050 35060. They are also on some of the aftermarket ones but don't recall that manufacturer either.
I believe I have a different turbo which is bigger than the stock one- so I think that is my issue. It seems to build up to much pressure and doesn't allow it to shift right. The 86 turbo 22re is my daughters and I have been working on it for several weeks. first I couldn't keep it running- then we figured that out- thanks to CO_94_PU, once she started driving it she states the above, plus it goes through gas like nobodies business. thanks for your continued advice- manuals don't give a whole lot of info on the turbo stuff- Once I figure out the pic posting I will post a picture of my POS.
Does the front housing say Toyota? This thread, link, has a side by side photo of the ct20 and ct26
you can look at the exhaust also, if it's not a cast steel elbow it's likely not the original turbo. You'll see an example of the fabricated pipes in that thread link also.
What kind of mileage are you seeing low teens? For comparison I got around 16-17 last time I calculated.. It takes some effort to keep it out of the boost range, if it's boosting it's going to burn lots of fuel. You don't have issues with it hitting the fuel cut off that I recall you mentioning so it's been tuned for a larger turbo if indeed that's what you have
Does the front housing say Toyota? This thread, link, has a side by side photo of the ct20 and ct26
you can look at the exhaust also, if it's not a cast steel elbow it's likely not the original turbo. You'll see an example of the fabricated pipes in that thread link also.
What kind of mileage are you seeing low teens? For comparison I got around 16-17 last time I calculated.. It takes some effort to keep it out of the boost range, if it's boosting it's going to burn lots of fuel. You don't have issues with it hitting the fuel cut off that I recall you mentioning so it's been tuned for a larger turbo if indeed that's what you have
The housing says garrett not Toyota. I don't believe its a cast steel - I'm pretty positive its not the factory turbo. any good suggestion on how to tune for the bigger turbo the person we bought it from has jacked up a lot of things and trying to get things back to or close to stock. All the EGR vacuum hoses have been removed and plugged- would it be worth my while to reattach all that? There is no test for the boost sensor so I don't know if it is working or not. she steps on the gas just to drive and it immediately bogs down and it sounds as if the boost kicks in but can't release until you take your foot of the gas... hard to explain...
Any suggestion on where to get a FSM cheaper than $200?? I have a Haynes and Chilton but they just don't have anything to do with this turbo- and I'm unfamiliar with it.
Thanks CO_PU_94
The housing says garrett not Toyota. I don't believe its a cast steel - I'm pretty positive its not the factory turbo. any good suggestion on how to tune for the bigger turbo the person we bought it from has jacked up a lot of things and trying to get things back to or close to stock. All the EGR vacuum hoses have been removed and plugged- would it be worth my while to reattach all that? There is no test for the boost sensor so I don't know if it is working or not. she steps on the gas just to drive and it immediately bogs down and it sounds as if the boost kicks in but can't release until you take your foot of the gas... hard to explain...
Any suggestion on where to get a FSM cheaper than $200?? I have a Haynes and Chilton but they just don't have anything to do with this turbo- and I'm unfamiliar with it.
Thanks CO_PU_94
Turbo ID,
You most definitely do not have a Toyota OEM turbo. It might be a hybrid t3/t4 or a GT series, did it have anything else there? In theory it will be a legitimate Garrett/Honeywell turbo based on the cast marking, a legit Garrett with have a plate attached on the large square flat section or be engraved and list more specific data about what you have.
EGR system,
No not at this time it will just be more complicated to diagnose. What you can check if you would like is that the block off plate, if there is one, is not leaking. Run an unlit propane torch along the seal with the engine idling and there should be no change in idle speed.
Boost sensor,
You mean the little black box on the passenger fender for the digital dash? It doesn't do anything useful, in all known information it just lights up the dash gauge bar. If you don't have the digital dash the turbo indicator lamp is driven by the ECU, it lights up when the computer thinks it has positive pressure and doesn't have a sensor at all.
Sounds like you have the digital dash. If it's lighting up the dash it's functional, how functional isn't a concern really.. my dash lights corrispond to about 1-2psi per section. I've never hooked the box up with a calibrated gauge and measures voltage so it's just a reference for you not a real specification.
Long story short, don't worry about it it's "eye candy".
Engine bog,
I don't recall, do you have the Toyota computer still in the passenger kick panel?
This is problematic. She needs to drive conservatively always ease into the throttle and avoid pulling out in front of anyone she won't have time to conservatively accelerate up to road speed..
It's more likely this is the timing chain stretching than an air fuel ratio problem. How does the ignition timing look? As a temporary work around, you can fiddle with the distributor stay conservative here no more than a degree or two.
ps
You'll need to verify and probably replace the TPS. Maybe the VAFM also. Please post the voltage as read by the ECU for both of these with them class and opened. They need to be as close as possible to what the computer expects
in addition to the things co_94 mentions, you might want to verify fuel pressure at the rail. low/insufficient pressure will manifest itself many ways, one of which is throttle bog.
the best way to monitor/verify fuel pressure is to install a liquid-filled gauge permanently.
Attached is the expected signal voltage table and pin diagrams as seen from the backside of the plugs.. you'll be inserting the meter leads with the computer connected and the key in the on position with the motor Not running.
in addition to the things co_94 mentions, you might want to verify fuel pressure at the rail. low/insufficient pressure will manifest itself many ways, one of which is throttle bog.
the best way to monitor/verify fuel pressure is to install a liquid-filled gauge permanently.
It likely would have already blown up I'd it was a supply problem, assuming they are getting any reasonable amount of boost..
But since we're adding gauges, get a proper boost gauge if you don't have one already. Harbor freight has them for about 20$ and it's perfectly adequate matches my 60$ one pound for pound.
02-10-2017, 07:25 PM
