Blacksmith04

Things that I have done.

1. replaced head gasket,head, cam, oil pump, timing set,temp sending units(ECU,Gauge) and did a complet tune up.New vacuum lines as well as ground straps both block and head.

2. Rebuilt injectors, cleaned TB and intake, ajusted valves.

When it warms up it runs very well. The problem is that it will not idle cold unless I have my foot on the gas for at lest 2min. When warm it idles @800RPM. Befor I rebuilt it the AAV would stick open and I would have a fast idle 1500-2000RPM's untill it got hot then it would drop down to 1K.

Today I redid the pig tail going to the AAV as one of the wires broke off while being removed. This didn't fix anything. I checked all the fuses and they were all good.

Could a bad ALT or battery do this? The battery is old but still cranks it over. The ALT gauge says that it is putting out almost 18V or 3/4 of the way up the gauge. also is there a way to clean the inside of the AAV? This thing is going to drive me to drink.

The truck is an 86 SR5 with a 22re and a 5 speed.

thook

I don't know if there is a way to clean it, but there is way to inspect it, if you've not done so already.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...35auxiliar.pdf

You might also test your coolant temp sensor.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...40engineco.pdf

Blacksmith04

By AAV I was talking about that damn thing that is bolted to the intake manafold. The face of it is held on by 4 screws and runs about $294 buck to replace. The coolant temp sensor was replaced. The only thing that I have not replaced is the time switch. I did have alot of crap in the rad and I just back flushed the cooling system. I was thinking that I might have a blockage in one of the small coolant lines that run through the AAV. I was just going to run the hell out of the truck to see if it just needs to be broke in. Like I said it runs great when warm. I have only driven it like 2mi since I flashed the coolant and only 20-30 mi since rebuilding it.

thook

Okay, you're talking about the throttle body. That can be cleaned. Use some carb/TB cleaner being careful not to get any on the throttle position sensor. Spray it out in all the little holes and what not, wipe it clean, and run the engine......revving it bit.

Here's another test...simple one...for the AAV, if you still suspect it. Even with a new motor that need breaking in, you shouldn't have an idle problem like that.

Since your title says what it says, I was under the impression you were/are having cold starting issues and not idle issues. Just for info sake, thread titles are better addressed when they describe the actual problem.....unless you ARE having cold start issues???? The timing switch could be a the problem, in that case.

Also, battery/alternator issues would manifest in any temperature case...not just cold.

And, welcome to Yotatech. Love the sig quotes....

Blacksmith04

Well the only problem is that it will not idle when cold unless I have my foot on the go peddel. Now that I have goten some sleep I was mixing up the aav with the air bypass valve. the thing that hangs down under the intake and has both coolant and 1"dia air hoses on it. That is what I had to fix the wireing on. Could a bad TPS mess things up like this? I did have to set the timing by ear as it would not go into base timing. I think that I will ajust the tps today and see if I can set the timing dead on. The truck runs like a raped ape when warm.

Flash319

Sounds to me like the cold idle up valve (AAV? I guess) is stuck closed. You have the old style that is not a part of the TB but is plastic and sits underneath? If you have the newer style, the kind that is a part of the TB you can take them apart and clean them. You have to remove the TB but is not a bad job.

Blacksmith04

Well it seems that I might have both. I have the part under the TB and the other mounted to the intake near the block on the front of the motor. I took a look at it today when I got home and found a small pin hole in the coolant line that goes from the thermostat houseing to the TB. I was just moveing stuff around and looking and it just started driping coolantwhen I moved it. What do you all think? I tested the TPS and it is ok and in range. I stoped by the dealer and they want $120 for the time switch for the cold start.

thook

I think I'd start testing things before I bought any replacements. Unless, I had money to spend....

Blacksmith04

As it turns out the TPS was not closeing all the everytime. I took it off and cleaned the spring and it went back to close every time. I adjusted it and checked my timing. Problem solved for the most part. there are still a few things that are a little off. But it runs a hell of alot better. My wife told me that people with OCD should not be allowed to work on cars.

Blacksmith04

+Well I took it for a test drive and about 8mi down the road it started to get a bit warm. The damn temp gauge started to go up up then down up up then down. When I got to where I was going I noticed that I had a slight drip from the drain cock. I closed it up and drive home.
On the way home it did the up and down thing a few times and then stayed about 3/4 of the way up. About the last half mile it started to near the red. I pulled in and shut it off and opened the rad and took is temp. It was @ 195F. I let it cool off before restarting it. This time I opened the heater lines as I did not do this when I filled the rad. I burped out a bit of air but not enough I would think to cause it to act the way it did. It did throw a code that I can't find anywhere it was a code 57. I let the truck idle for 20min after I burped the system and the gauge did not move from the half way mark the whole time. I am getting sick of working on this damn truck. So would a small amount of air in the system cause it to act like this?

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

i think so.

Blacksmith04

Well it must have been a mix of air in the coolant and my alt going bad. It is still putting out juice just not much. I went for a drive tonight and when I turned off the lights the idle went up. Good thing I bought a new set of brushes the other day to keep in the truck. So now I know what I will be doing tomorrow. That and weld up a hole in the jeeps oil pan.

Blacksmith04

Well as an update I pulled the alt and the shaft was bent and it was fried. I took it to the closest parts store and they replaced it for free. They said that it was one of theirs and swaped the warenty into my name. I looked at the test sheet that came with it and it put out 88amps at 6000rpms. 71 amps at 3500. I only had enough time to put it into the truck and start it up. The truck is a hell of alot quieter and seems to have a bit more pep.