rolled it down a steep ridge while hunting. It worked for a while after that but then finally broke. That camera went through hell and made it back. I will buy the same model.

 

There really isn't a correct order to do things. You just want to be organized in a fashion that will work for you. (work your way around the engine, front to back L then R, whatever) Keep small parts in ziplocks that you can write on or put bolts/nuts back in their holes/studs once the part is removed. You don't want the t chain and cam gear to flop around when the head is off, so I tied mine up to something on the hood to keep it snugly in place. You won't need to remove the water pump or worry about any of that crankshaft bolt crap in the t chain/cover write ups. While you don't "need" to remove all the belts and hoses or the fan and clutch, it's really worth the time to make your job easier in the long run. Since you have to drain the coolant, it's worth it to take a good look at the belts and hoses, check the water pump weep hole for any signs of failure, and remove the radiator and give it a serious flushing out. You also save scraping your knuckles on the cooling fins 6 or 7 or 20 times that way. It may also be worth sending the alternator out to Boyles (I'll try to find the link in a minute) for rebuild if your friend has the desire and dough.

I was looking at the write up on 4x4 wire that is linked in a link that I linked. It has a good shot of how the 22r has the fuel pump involved which doesn't show in any of the stuff I linked as it is all EFI. In case that was too confusing, here is the write up I'm talking about.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

Otherwise, the obvious stuff like don't forget to find TDC before you tear down. Don't forget about the hidden bolt in the oil puddle under the cam sprocket. Don't forget about the allen bolt in the intake manifold. (if it's even there on carbed models-IDK)

Finally, break open your piggy bank so you can buy me that brewery you promised. I'm packing the car right now.

I actually wish I could come up on a road trip.

 

Take your time and keep it all marked. Mine was not really all that bad. If you have someone to help you out all the better. Don't forget to lap the valves (I think I used the correct term). http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...num=1&ct=title

 

Here is the alternator stuff.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pgrade-162594/ see post #7
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-pics-140704/
Of course this has nothing to do with the head, but as long as the truck is down anyway, and you can get the alt out of your way....

 

For hell sakes!
After a lengthy day of wrenching it turns out this motor doesn't need a head gasket replacment. It needs a rebuild.
There are too many things going on with it to fix. Burned rings, valve seals are toast etc etc etc. I need to yank the motor and rebuild it.
This thread will morph into a "complete rebuild."
Thanks everyone for helping out on the HG issue.
Stay tuned

 

Will do.
BTW I like the fact that you know the difference between mettle, meddle, metal, and medal as well as cite and site.

Not so sure about queezy instead of queasy but I'll blame it on the Coors Light makin' ya stoopider.

 

some how i knew this would happen

 

My mother would be ashamed!
She was an english teacher - queezy queasy - good god thats awful!

 

Yeah. I'm sorry too. That should have been "more stoopider".

 

I would have taken a few photos today but WallyWorld didn't have the digital camera I wanted and I didn't have time to drive around all day to find one.
I will try to get a few pictures of the carnage when I get it out and torn apart.
This truck is a testament to the to how resilient a 22r/22re is.

 

thats no fun

 

im stayin tuned for sure.. looks like a rebuild is going to be in my no so distant future lol but im going run er' till its dead, and save some dough if i can.. and then try to pull of a 2.7 swap (for some silly reason i want to keep a 4 banger.. but i might get spoiled, the soon to be wife is getting a v6 3rd gen or even possibly a 4th gen runner really soon)

 

Uh, I am replacing the head with a rebuilt on my 2.2 liter L engine (and lots of other stuff). For now my question is how clean does the surface have to be (on the block). The head has new ground surface (LCE), I worked on the top of the block, but there seems to be deposits that won't come off with solvent and paper towels (or cloth). I was thinking of getting some emery cloth and gently working around the holes and stuff. Maybe with a little light oil for lube. I want to remove deposits, not metal. How clean does it need to be to make a good mating surface?

Here's a picture in a post on the pre 84 section
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f197/how-clean-263579/

I thought this section might have a different crowd that might have some advice. I'd like to make this a good gasket/head installation! Nice old engine with just 169k miles.

 

Well 83 ping pong, unless you have a 20R, your engine is a 2.4 liter 22R or 22RE. that being said, you want the block as clean as you can get it, i mean no leftover gasket material, take a razorblade and scrape off everything until its pretty much all clean steel. the deposits are OK to an extent... if they are very tiny then yes take some emory cloth and work around it just keep all the dust and debris you took off out of the cylinders but if the deposits are larger and closer to the cylinder walls you might want to look at getting your block decked... you want that block looking as darn close to new as you can...

 

This actually IS the L engine (non-turbo diesel...my other project), so it is 2.2liter displacement. I tend to agree... it needs to be cleaner. I didn't want to use a screwdriver or razor. It's a cast iron block, so I guess if I'm careful, a razor won't hurt. I hate to have crap dropping into the oil and coolant holes, not to mention the cylinders. I guess all you can do is be as careful as possible. It'll all get blown out in the first few minutes running!

 

Can't deck the block... There is a raised ring around each cylinder top that is higher than the gasket surface (part of the cylinder sleeve or cast block, not sure which). The head gasket fits tight around it, and it reduces the stress on the head gasket

 

It needs to be clean, but doesnt need to be perfect. If it wont come off with a razor blade its ok.
As long as its flat and clean, as in no oil, coolant etc it will be ok.

Thats what cummins says in thier rebuild course......

 

use high tack on the gasket too that will help