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I've got a bit of a 4x4 prob.
91 4runner 3.0 4x auto.
when I shift into 4H it won't engage. If I shift down to 4L it will engage as if in 4h. Then the bad part...When it engages, it jerks and shimmies and feels like the rig is falling apart. When I disengage, it's normal driving in 2H.
I've checked all fluid levels, checked the vac and elect to the front dif and transfer case.
also worth noting, I replaced my trans and case less than a year ago, also cv joints and bearings. I could have messed things up during...wouldn't be the first time...
thanks in advance, JB
First, check the linkage. That could explain 4H when shifter pointing to 4L.
Remember that 4wd is not for dry road; you don't have a "third" differential to even out forward v. back axles. You should get scuffing, and not "falling apart", though. (Worse while turning.)
I assume you have the same size tires all-around, and did not change either differential.
First, check the linkage. That could explain 4H when shifter pointing to 4L.
Remember that 4wd is not for dry road; you don't have a "third" differential to even out forward v. back axles. You should get scuffing, and not "falling apart", though. (Worse while turning.)
I assume you have the same size tires all-around, and did not change either differential.
Thanks for responding. Yes tires are new 32". I did have the third member replaced 4 months ago from one I got used. I understand about a little tire chirp on dry payment. But during our first snow, I engaged and felt like it would pull one way then the next. I lived in Alaska for 20 years and am pretty comfy in snow, but this had me stressed and tence till I got home.
Thanks for responding. Yes tires are new 32". I did have the third member replaced 4 months ago from one I got used. I understand about a little tire chirp on dry payment. But during our first snow, I engaged and felt like it would pull one way then the next. I lived in Alaska for 20 years and am pretty comfy in snow, but this had me stressed and tence till I got home.
Did you check the gear ratio on the replacement third member?
Did you check the gear ratio on the replacement third member?
Nope....
i didn't know there could be a differance...had a local shop do it. Found the third member at wrecking yard out of a 93...
i don't like these " in hindsite" things... should have known to check that...wish the mechanic would have checked...cant blame him though...im the one that got it for him to replace..
so how would I check it at this point, as that would make total sense. If the ratio is off than seems like my problem would be the issue..do you agree?
Nope....
i didn't know there could be a differance...had a local shop do it. Found the third member at wrecking yard out of a 93...
i don't like these " in hindsite" things... should have known to check that...wish the mechanic would have checked...cant blame him though...im the one that got it for him to replace..
so how would I check it at this point, as that would make total sense. If the ratio is off than seems like my problem would be the issue..do you agree?
I absolutely agree, I actually test drove a vehicle for sale for a friend of mine looking to buy it that did the same thing on ice. it was a constant slide when in 4x4 and the used car dealer told me it needed a t-case. after 20 minutes of questioning he told me they had swapped out the rear end before the t-case went out. that's when it clicked. I told my buddy not to buy it cuz it absolutely needed a rear end, but it probably needed both and it could have damaged the front end as well.
What you should do is check the door sticker for the codes related to the gear ratio when your truck was built, please someone help out here as I don't have access to the information. If nothing has been done to the front differential that is the ratio you will need for the rear and the code you should look for at a wrecking yard. If you want 100% proof that it's the gear ratios you would have to pull the 3rd members to look at the numbers stamped on the ring gear or carefully measure rotations of the driveshaft and wheels. Mark the driveshaft and the diff housing put the truck in neutral and with some help slowly push the truck in a straight line exactly one full rotation of the wheel while counting the rotations of the driveshaft. it will be something like 4.88 rotations of the driveshaft to 1 rotation of the tire (4.88 gears) so you will only be able to get close.
PS/edit, they used a paint color code system on the flanges at the factory you can find lists of these also. It's not always accurate but is a good indicator when looking at a pile of options.
Last edited by Co_94_PU; Mar 7, 2018 at 02:27 PM.
Reason: Ps
PS/edit, they used a paint color code system on the flanges at the factory you can find lists of these also. It's not always accurate but is a good indicator when looking at a pile of options.
If you spin one tire you need to divide your count by 2 due to the differential action, you need to spin both tires equally to get a straight count, less confusing.
Last edited by akwheeler; Mar 7, 2018 at 02:54 PM.
Originally posted by TNToy
----------------------------------------------------
If you have the axle code of your vehicle, it is easy to find out what size differential, what ratio, and what pinion set-up you have. This will also help if you are hunting for a particular unit off another vehicle. The axle code is in the vehicle ID plate under the hood or drivers door. The axle code is 4 digits: a letter followed by 3 numbers.
Originally posted by TNToy
----------------------------------------------------
If you have the axle code of your vehicle, it is easy to find out what size differential, what ratio, and what pinion set-up you have. This will also help if you are hunting for a particular unit off another vehicle. The axle code is in the vehicle ID plate under the hood or drivers door. The axle code is 4 digits: a letter followed by 3 numbers.
Just got back from dinner, and, wow lots of info. Love that the problem seams all but confermened. Dislike what it's going to take to correct. I will look into codes and find a match, replace, and report.
Thank you for your help.. Loving this forum and it's members.
Regards, JB
if the problem really is a mismatched front vs rear ratio, it would also explain why 4hi doesn't work, yet 4lo seems like 4hi. in hi range, not enough torque to overcome the difference in ratios and slip the tires to move, but in low, there's enough torque available to do that.
I absolutely agree, I actually test drove a vehicle for sale for a friend of mine looking to buy it that did the same thing on ice. it was a constant slide when in 4x4 and the used car dealer told me it needed a t-case. after 20 minutes of questioning he told me they had swapped out the rear end before the t-case went out. that's when it clicked. I told my buddy not to buy it cuz it absolutely needed a rear end, but it probably needed both and it could have damaged the front end as well.
What you should do is check the door sticker for the codes related to the gear ratio when your truck was built, please someone help out here as I don't have access to the information. If nothing has been done to the front differential that is the ratio you will need for the rear and the code you should look for at a wrecking yard. If you want 100% proof that it's the gear ratios you would have to pull the 3rd members to look at the numbers stamped on the ring gear or carefully measure rotations of the driveshaft and wheels. Mark the driveshaft and the diff housing put the truck in neutral and with some help slowly push the truck in a straight line exactly one full rotation of the wheel while counting the rotations of the driveshaft. it will be something like 4.88 rotations of the driveshaft to 1 rotation of the tire (4.88 gears) so you will only be able to get close.
akwheeler
So let me get this right. If/when i change out my wheels to 33s and change the rear end gears I have to change the front to the same gear ratio?
akwheeler
So let me get this right. If/when i change out my wheels to 33s and change the rear end gears I have to change the front to the same gear ratio?
unless you like to have the front wheels spinning at a different speed than the rear wheels or you never want to use 4 wheel drive again. it's awful hard to drive a vehicle when either the front tires or rear tires have to be skidding all the time.
unless you like to have the front wheels spinning at a different speed than the rear wheels or you never want to use 4 wheel drive again. it's awful hard to drive a vehicle when either the front tires or rear tires have to be skidding all the time.
Wow, I really didn't "think" about that............
I guess I have fulfilled your sig
I have leaned something new, and the day is not wasted!