Morph...Looks good can't wait to see it once its back together...I love the power my truck has now and how much better it runs (20 mpg!!)...I like the beefy steering stabilizer, I've got one of those guys too...Good luck

 

Hi
First off, Morphine, Great job on the rebuild. I don't want to hijack this thread but I need help with my engine that fits in with this thread. What is the best way to removed the toothed gear on the front of the crankshaft? I am asking before I go and ruin something. My thought was to put a gear puller on it along with some penetrating oil. I can see that there is a key way in it. Appreciate the help.

 

OK, so I'm installing my timing belt and the accompaning pulleys, however the marks I originallt made are not lining up. here are some pics. The first one was before the tear down, then followed by how they line up now. Basically I cannot get both the passanger side and driver side cam pulley to line up at the same time.

Before:


You can see that the "WHITE" mark on both are pointing straight up and down. This happens to align with the pin that the cam pulley fits over. Now here is how it currently is....


Drivers side is ok but the passanger side is about 80degrees off.

This is the drivers side



Passanger side


I searched and didn't find to much. I read and reread the Haynes manual (Garbage) and looked over what Bumpin'Yota sent my way at the beginning. Still I'm lost.

Help, anyone???

-=Morphine=-

 

Thanks for helping me out over the phone so quickly. I think I got it. I'll be back in the garage working now.

If you ever make it out my way you have a place to stay man, Thanks again.

-=Morphine=-
Charles

 

I just finished replacing my belt the other day, looks to me like your passenger side pulley needs rotated clockwise till the dots match up. Mine moved on me too...just keep track of which direction it goes if it moves & move it back to the mark. For example: if it moves to 10 o'clock (like yours is), move it back to 12 o'clock by turning CW.

It seems that when the pulley is at the mark it's at the top of the cam lobe, so it wants to rock away from the mark with just a slight move.

Just take yer time....Good luck.

 

Let us know how it goes...you've got my number in case you need anything else...Good luck

 

Just for anyone else who might have that problem, what did you tell him?

 

Morph,

any luck did you get it running again?

 

mt_goat, I'll field this one myself in non technical speak. I was instructed to RTFM, no seriously it was an explenation of the manual.

1. Line up the cgroove in the crankshaft sprocket with the mark on the oil pump.
2. Align the camshaft sprocket timing marks with the stationary marks on the rear #3 housing (Back plate). Don't fully install the bolt either.
3. DO NOT INSTALL THE "PIN" ON THE CAM SPROCKET.
4. Install the timing belt over the camshaft sprocket, idler pulleys, fan puley, and crankshaft sprocket.
5.loosen the idler puller boltand pry it to the right as far as possible.Tighten now.
6.Install the tension spring, loosen the bolt again and let the idler tension itself.
7. Install the dampner bolt and verify that everything is lined up with the grooves, marks, etc. (TDC and all aligned).
8. Complete 2 revolutions of the crankshaft sprocket and verify alignment marks.
9. After the alignment is double checked, loosen the cam sprocket bolt and check to see if the "PIN" can be slid in.
***For mine my driverside was lined up but my passanger side was not***
10. Remove the passangerside valve cover.
11. Locate on the cam between the #3 and #5 cylinder lobes the "hexagonal" section.
12. with one hand push the "pin" into place and using the other hand and a wrench, turn the cam using the "hexagonal" section until the pin goes in.
13. Again double check all of your alignment marks and perform another 2 complete revoltiouns.
14. Post on yotatech your results and utmost apprecitation for everyones help ,

Hope this covered it all.

Thanks agian
-=Morphine=-

 

exactly what he said Mt.Goat, the biggest thing is to nut put the pics in until the sprockets are timed to the crank, the line up the cams with the sprockets and put the pins in

 

My tensioner is external, with no spring like shown in the above pics. What's up with that? Did they make different kinds or something? There was never a spring in there at all when I took my motor apart?????????/

 

Great thanks guys.

knaffie, yes there was a change in the tensioner from the 92 or 93 models on.

 

Knaffie- yes they changed to a hydraulic tensioner in 92

 

Morph-did you get her started today?

 

I stepped out for a little and helped my mom with her yard work. I also need to get some sleep for work tomorrow. I'm so close That I should have her out of the garage either tomorrow after work or the next day. It's down to just some finishing touches that is taking some time. Connecting the EGR valve and AS reed to the headers. Reconnecting the hoses to the plenum (this will be after the previous item is connected). Re-attach the radiator, fill with fluids, spark plugs and wires and then I crank her.

I'll post more tomorrow and the next day if needed.

-=Morphine=-

 

OK, she starts. Sounds awesome, no exhaust yet just my headers. Now I'm off to troubleshoot a small fuel leak. It's either the #6 cylnider or the drivers side fuel rail.

-=Morphine=-

 

pics pics pics, we need pics.

Congrats on getting her runnin'.

 

I had a small fuel leak after doing my heads a few months ago. I tore it back down to the fuel rails twice & replaced the o-rings on the injector(s) that were leaking. After the second time, it started DUMPING fuel out of the sucker. Turns out, the o-rings I got in my gasket kit were too big, and kept getting cut up when I put them in the fuel rail. I got new o-rings from Kragen, and, voila! problem solved. Short story long; keep an eye on the o-rings. If they're cut up, you may have gotten the wrong sized ones.

 

I dont follow at all...

I thought that the cam shafts had only one key way for the key that locks the cam pulley to the cam. And you put that key in when you installed the cam pulley. AFter that it should be simply alignment. ??

What is all this talk of putting on the timing belt then installing a key??

(When I did my timing belt/waterpump/tensioner/idler/thermostat replacement, I didnt pull the cam pulleys...I figured they would be exactly like the crankshaft's keyed shaft...)

 

The cams and the pulley both have only one hole for the pin...but generally after you've done your heads the cams aren't at #1 TDC so you have to time the cam pulleys back to #1 TDC with the crank pulley then rotate the cams to #1 TDC so they line up with the pulleys and the key /pin slides right in...hope that clears things up