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3vze running hot mystery

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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 02:16 PM
  #1  
OKIDOG's Avatar
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3vze running hot mystery

first off thanks for your help on my idle last time!
My truck overheats in one condition-after a few minutes of highway driving. It is stable otherwise.
Here is what I have done to trouble shoot so far:
pressure test and check OEM radiator for stoppage/blockage
gut thermostat
burp system
all new fluids
stock timing
valve adj
new egr

fan clutch
water pump
oem radiator cap
hoses
no leaks
new 50/50
compression tested
There are no issues with the head gaskets
There is no knocking-it runs fine even when this hot
The 02 tested ok when cold on ohmeter

No exaust leaks between engine and 02 sensor
no trouble codes


Could it be a lean condition making it this hot?
Should I do the AFM mod or replace the 02 sensor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #2  
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From: SO CAL
ac on or off

If the Ac condensor fan isnt working that could explain your problem. there is a resistor block that falls apart.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 05:44 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
If you're overheating on the highway, I'd guess your radiator is clogged. Has it ever had stop leak or equivalent used in it?
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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It runs a bit cooler with the AC off and the heater on, but the needle is still very close to red & if I push it, coolant will boil out into overflow.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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From what I've read,
a bad O2 would make it richer, not leaner
if it was caused by a lean condition, there would be knocking/detonation
so adj the afm probably won't help
Any ideas where to go next?
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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From: Pueblo, Colorado
X2 check your radiator, probably clogged....
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 03:17 PM
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my 2 cents...

my 3vz was doing similar thing. I went through everything, replaced all but radiator. Radiator was flowing fine.

However, I took some advice and replaced the radiator. Not a problem since. I'm not the best mechanic but seemed when hot the flow stopped in the radiator.
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 10:12 AM
  #8  
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I think I am going to have to try a radiator. If anyone knows of a high performance fan clutch or water pump, please let me know, thanks!
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #9  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
OEM stock fan clutch & water pump work fine under all conditions.

You may have flow in the radiator, but you're not getting ENOUGH at speed when you're generating a lot of heat. You have clogged passages. I almost guarantee someone has used stop-leak or equivalent in it at some point.

how many miles on the engine? Do you use Toyota RED coolant?
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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I'm running green 50/50-I hate to replace that nice OEM brass top radiator. Should I have it cleaned, clean it myself or just replace it? 130Kmiles
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Old Aug 5, 2011 | 12:23 PM
  #11  
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From: Pueblo, Colorado
Do you have a good radiator shop nearby? They can check to see if there is a problem before you replace/rod it.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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any updates...I have the same problem and looking into getting a new radiator too...thanks
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 09:43 AM
  #13  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Originally Posted by OKIDOG
I'm running green 50/50-I hate to replace that nice OEM brass top radiator. Should I have it cleaned, clean it myself or just replace it? 130Kmiles
FYI: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-pics-193478/
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Old Oct 31, 2011 | 02:52 PM
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angrydogtattoo's Avatar
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From: southeast Ohio
I have a 22RE and not the 3.0, but I picked up a really nice all aluminum one from an online auction, $125 I think with shipping and not only did it look cool, but it has run very nice and installed like a breeze, I had minimal tweaking to get it in.
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