3VZE issues
01-31-2019, 06:44 PM
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3VZE issues
Hi, sorry for new thread but I need a help with my 3VZE and didnt find anything like this problem. (93 pickup, manual, 3VZE, 320K)
Long story short. got some issues after warm up - hesitation when accelerate low rpm( 1st gear), poor gas mileage. After shut off engine and another start very rare idle surging under 500rpm. Anyways I got code 41 so I changed TPS. After TPS change these problems are still there but what is new - start truck idle perfect at 800rpm after driving and stop on light idle stay at 1500-1600rpm.
-Throttle body is completely clean
-Auxiliary Air Control Valve clean
-TPS adjusted about specs, back probed wiring VTA-GND = 0,52V-3,64V /// IDL-GND 0,1V-10,7V
- eliminated problem with dashpot - tried unscrew the bolt still same problem
-in throttle plate is some play but i got spare TB and tried swap it - still same problem
-cables are not sticking
- smoke test - no vacuum leaks
when idle stick at 1500-1600rpm I can push the throttle plate and then idle again at 800rpm when shut off engine and start again it will go slowly down at 800rpm
so my question is there any vacuum line what is helping close throttle plate and can be plugged or something else?
Thanks.
Long story short. got some issues after warm up - hesitation when accelerate low rpm( 1st gear), poor gas mileage. After shut off engine and another start very rare idle surging under 500rpm. Anyways I got code 41 so I changed TPS. After TPS change these problems are still there but what is new - start truck idle perfect at 800rpm after driving and stop on light idle stay at 1500-1600rpm.
-Throttle body is completely clean
-Auxiliary Air Control Valve clean
-TPS adjusted about specs, back probed wiring VTA-GND = 0,52V-3,64V /// IDL-GND 0,1V-10,7V
- eliminated problem with dashpot - tried unscrew the bolt still same problem
-in throttle plate is some play but i got spare TB and tried swap it - still same problem
-cables are not sticking
- smoke test - no vacuum leaks
when idle stick at 1500-1600rpm I can push the throttle plate and then idle again at 800rpm when shut off engine and start again it will go slowly down at 800rpm
so my question is there any vacuum line what is helping close throttle plate and can be plugged or something else?
Thanks.
02-01-2019, 06:11 AM
#2
So I experienced something really similar...
Here's what was up with mine, I had a horrible stutter at low RPM, rough(ish) idle --> i could hear it in the exhaust but the bay you could only see a minor hiccup now and then. It also had an inconstant idle from like 750-1200 as you described. Throttle blip seemed to "reset" it.
Toyota said the timing was "fluctuating" at idle. Replaced Cap/Rotor, 2 sets of denso OEM plugs/wires, and set the timing to 10 degrees at idle. It was better but still stuttered with minor throttle at LOW rpm (2K and below). Not as bad at higher speeds but even 5th gear you could feel it at low rpm (like 55 mph cruising). I assumed TPS but my testing of it was inaccurate at best and I had minimal maint history on this thing. So the water pump went, and the old timing belt was cracked ALL over I mean this thing was going at any point in the next couple thousand miles. I replaced it, OEM timing spec of 8 degrees at idle, and now it runs damn smooth.
So here's what I did:
New fuel filter -- because it needed it anyway and removed that as a variable
Replace Cap/Rotor
Plugs/Wires -- were they replaced recently?
TIMING -- I need a new belt, there's a picture in the what did you do to your classic thread. So run a timing light on it what's it at idle? Is it consistent?
If you have the time maybe pull the timing cover and inspect the belt, unless you know it was replaced.
I stayed away from the TPS because I did not trust myself to adjust it correctly. Maybe have the TPS verified too? I have read they are finite adjustments and I couldn't get the correct readings with my spacer set.
I have service manuals if you need specific information i can post pictures.
Here's what was up with mine, I had a horrible stutter at low RPM, rough(ish) idle --> i could hear it in the exhaust but the bay you could only see a minor hiccup now and then. It also had an inconstant idle from like 750-1200 as you described. Throttle blip seemed to "reset" it.
Toyota said the timing was "fluctuating" at idle. Replaced Cap/Rotor, 2 sets of denso OEM plugs/wires, and set the timing to 10 degrees at idle. It was better but still stuttered with minor throttle at LOW rpm (2K and below). Not as bad at higher speeds but even 5th gear you could feel it at low rpm (like 55 mph cruising). I assumed TPS but my testing of it was inaccurate at best and I had minimal maint history on this thing. So the water pump went, and the old timing belt was cracked ALL over I mean this thing was going at any point in the next couple thousand miles. I replaced it, OEM timing spec of 8 degrees at idle, and now it runs damn smooth.
So here's what I did:
New fuel filter -- because it needed it anyway and removed that as a variable
Replace Cap/Rotor
Plugs/Wires -- were they replaced recently?
TIMING -- I need a new belt, there's a picture in the what did you do to your classic thread. So run a timing light on it what's it at idle? Is it consistent?
If you have the time maybe pull the timing cover and inspect the belt, unless you know it was replaced.
I stayed away from the TPS because I did not trust myself to adjust it correctly. Maybe have the TPS verified too? I have read they are finite adjustments and I couldn't get the correct readings with my spacer set.
I have service manuals if you need specific information i can post pictures.
Last edited by COMTB; 02-01-2019 at 06:15 AM.
02-01-2019, 03:56 PM
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Thanks for reply. What I am going to check is ignition timing
ECT sensor
O2 sensor (was bad 2 months ago and i did put there used one from other rig)
EGR system
plugs and wires also - seems to be pretty new
I did change fuel filter no change.
I was setting TPS already 10 times with all changing TB.
VTA -E2 =0,70 kohm
IDL-E2 .50mm = 0.1 kohm
IDL-E2 .080mm = infinity
VTA-E2 WOT = 4,67 kohm
VC-E2 = around 5,70 kohm
VTA -E2 smoothly increasing with opening throttle no drop and dead spots
I am just wondering what is all of sudden cause this high idle after start driving. I dont think its another symptom above mentioned issues because when I start truck is idle at 800 if I open throttle with hand and let idle again is still on 800. If I push pedal and let idle is still at 800 but if I start drive then stop on light idle stay at 1500-1600 constantly no moving at all.
ECT sensor
O2 sensor (was bad 2 months ago and i did put there used one from other rig)
EGR system
plugs and wires also - seems to be pretty new
I did change fuel filter no change.
I was setting TPS already 10 times with all changing TB.
VTA -E2 =0,70 kohm
IDL-E2 .50mm = 0.1 kohm
IDL-E2 .080mm = infinity
VTA-E2 WOT = 4,67 kohm
VC-E2 = around 5,70 kohm
VTA -E2 smoothly increasing with opening throttle no drop and dead spots
I am just wondering what is all of sudden cause this high idle after start driving. I dont think its another symptom above mentioned issues because when I start truck is idle at 800 if I open throttle with hand and let idle again is still on 800. If I push pedal and let idle is still at 800 but if I start drive then stop on light idle stay at 1500-1600 constantly no moving at all.
Last edited by Vrbis; 02-01-2019 at 03:58 PM.
02-01-2019, 07:17 PM
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... when idle stick at 1500-1600rpm I can push the throttle plate and then idle again at 800rpm when shut off engine and start again it will go slowly down at 800rpm
so my question is there any vacuum line what is helping close throttle plate and can be plugged or something else?
so my question is there any vacuum line what is helping close throttle plate and can be plugged or something else?
The throttle plate has a lot of stuff hanging on it (transmission cable, cruise control actuator, dash pot, throttle unloader, throttle cable, tps, ...) If one of those cables, actuators, or stops gets sticky, the spring isn't strong enough to pull the throttle plate all the way closed. Easy to tell; if pushing the throttle closed with your finger does the trick (the idle doesn't jump back up), something is holding it up by just that much pressure.
02-01-2019, 07:44 PM
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Have manual, tps is new , cable is free , dashpot is allright ( i tried unscrew that bolt out and drive and it was the same), TB is completely clean.
I wouldnt ask you guys if I didnt check everything what I cloud and know about it...
I found a thread about how TB plate "axle" is getting worn out And somebody used a washer to centre plate and get rid of that play so I did get another TB put it there for eliminate this problem and still exactly same thing.
I wouldnt ask you guys if I didnt check everything what I cloud and know about it...
I found a thread about how TB plate "axle" is getting worn out And somebody used a washer to centre plate and get rid of that play so I did get another TB put it there for eliminate this problem and still exactly same thing.
02-02-2019, 07:04 AM
#7
Not sure if yours is a CA vehicle and has the EGR system. Mine was having a similar issue and turned out to be the VSV gone bad. The EGR valve wasn't getting good vacuum so it was sporadically not closing properly and causing the idle to surge. Drove me nutz.
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02-02-2019, 07:55 AM
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Mine is SR5 not a california but your answer is tip what Im looking for. EGR is on my list.
02-02-2019, 09:31 AM
#9
Have you tested to see if the throttle cable is too tight? or the springs are worn out and not letting the throttle blade back to close? I would start it and spray brake cleaning all over the intake and vacuum lines and see if the idle goes up thats a good test for small vacuum leaks. I had this issue on one of my 3.0s but i ended up deleting the EGR and VSV and pair valve. seemed to do the trick for me.
02-02-2019, 04:44 PM
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Yes I checked cable and isnt sticking, just that throttle stay stuck. With TB on the bench is closing all the way. Drove it today and was even worse rpm stay around 2500. This throttle problem came with TB clean.
02-02-2019, 04:59 PM
#11
Is your throttle body gasket ripped or cracked? Sounds like you’re getting a vacuum leak somewhere. Does it hesitate on take off? Or under a load? Did anyone mess with the Idle speed screw? To bad you can’t post a video of what it is doing.
Last edited by charles.isbell85; 02-02-2019 at 05:21 PM.
02-02-2019, 06:50 PM
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Your idle is high. When you gently push the throttle closed, the idle drops to where it should be and stays there. Something is holding the throttle open. A vacuum leak can't do that. The EGR can't do that. Neither can the PAIR, VSV, ECT, ... The TPS can do it, because it's physically attached to the throttle, and if there's something wrong in the installation it can provide just enough friction to overcome the spring. So can the dashpot, throttle opener, throttle cable, cruise actuator. But they are all right there; just find what is keeping the throttle from closing.
02-02-2019, 07:30 PM
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Your idle is high. When you gently push the throttle closed, the idle drops to where it should be and stays there. Something is holding the throttle open. A vacuum leak can't do that. The EGR can't do that. Neither can the PAIR, VSV, ECT, ... The TPS can do it, because it's physically attached to the throttle, and if there's something wrong in the installation it can provide just enough friction to overcome the spring. So can the dashpot, throttle opener, throttle cable, cruise actuator. But they are all right there; just find what is keeping the throttle from closing.
And will make video tomorrow for you guys so you can see
02-03-2019, 01:26 PM
#14
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On my 95 Ford f150 (yeah I know, I know it burns half a gallon of gas getting out of the driveway, I work on it all the time and sometimes when I walk by it something I need falls off.) the throttle return spring was to weak to return to closed all the time. I just installed a heavier spring and it works as well as anything else on this pickup does.
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