Innervision

Updated Below

Background: The head gasket(s) went on my '94 4Runner (3.0L V6-211K). After trying to sell for a couple months I have decided to keep it fix it up and drop in a rebuilt engine. Which makes me really happy since I hated the thought of getting rid of my 4Runner.

Once I started talking rebuild my wife's uncle informed me he has a 1988 Yota V6 pickup with an engine that was rebuilt a year ago. The body is rusted out of it and he was going to scrap it after getting a new pickup. So he offered me the engine for free.

From all I have read the engine from the 88 should drop right into my 94 Runner with no modifications to the engine frame or wiring. Both engines are 3VZE.

Anybody think otherwise??? I don't want any surprises.

TNRabbit

Both have the same transmission? If so, you're golden!

91diesel

There are differences in the distributor, TB tensioner and a few others, but nothing that you shouldn't be able to swap from one engine to the other if the wiring harness plugs don't match up. (the distributor is one of those)

Innervision

Completed the engine swap today. Runs great. However for future reference the 88 3vze engine is not a direct swap to the 89-95 models. Everything with an electrical connection had to be changed. What a PITA. Also the exhaust manifold is at a different angle so I had to customize the exhaust.


The donor engine fired right up on the first crank after sitting for a year and a half without being started. Gotta love Toyota quality. The 4Runner is running again.

a4runnerfreak

Glad to hear that you didn't have to sell your baby. Congrats!

Innervision

Now I have a huge coolant leak on the back of the engine. Tracked down the metal hose that is cracked and wouldn't you know it, it runs under the intake manifold. Now I get the joy of pulling the plenum back off and removing the intake manifold to get to the rusty pipe that runs between the heads.

But at least I don't have to pull the engine back out.

thook

Oh man, I hate it when crap like that happens. I had to pull the plenum three times when I rebuilt my wife's 3vze. Don't remember why now, but I do remember I got really good at it...hehe.

Silver_Truck

When you replace the hardline be sure to replace all the rubber hoses down/under there too and do a good inspection of everything, its a complete PITA to get to that area frequently so make sure you do it right! And be sure you dissassemble the front of the motor and timing set properly as listed in the FSM or else the chance of your cam timing being off is very high (take it from someone who's done it way too many times both the wrong and right way!) Good luck!

okie81

[QUOTE.... Everything with an electrical connection had to be changed. ....... QUOTE]

Wow, talk about a feat! You make it sound so easy.

thook

I don't remember having to dismantle the front end to get to/under the lower manifold. Are you sure about that?

Innervision

I thought the same thing. I only have to take off the intake manifold and the the no. 2 idler pulley for the return to the radiator. The timing belt will go slack but as long as I dont move the teeth on the cams I should be ok. I am going to mark the belt and cam pullies to be safe but I dont see any major issue as long as I don't rotate the cams or shift the belt while loose. Correct?

thook

It would be a very good idea to set everything to TDC with the rotor at th #1 spark terminal at the dist. before you do so. It's the safest reference saving potential complicatons after reassembly.

I'd forgotten that little detail about the idler pulley. So, silver truck is correct.

Silver_Truck

Yep its a little thing that seems easy to avoid while doing it but can cause you some major headaches in the end...I found personally that just marking it wasn't enough, i had a situation where it came a tooth off the crank gear and then it becomes a completely different game making sure that your still in time, if you are going to do it that way i would mark both cams and also through a clamp on the belt to make sure its not going anywhere. And yes TDC #1 of course is your starting point, you also probably want to mark your hoses and electrical connections in the back as I think I remember some of them being similar