Matt16

I'm doing a clutch for someone. Anyone have a good writeup or any good advice? Much appreciated.

idanity

Deathcouger...did all the hard stuff, as i basically learned how to watch.
pm him, and hopefully he can summerize it..

recomend the oem clutch/ flywheel, and throw out bearing.
pulled the throwout bearing by filling the old one w/oil/ grease, and hammering in an identical size bolt to force out the bearing by displacing the grease and pushing it out, while hammering in the bolt...

very cool trick.

swivel sockets and long/ long extensions...

the clutch centering tool is also needed. (so its easy to mate up the tranny to the engine).

thook

The FSM is a very adequate guideline. What with all the specs and what not.

I've read around here wax works best for the pilot bearing <<<<what you're referring to, idanity<<< . Is doesn't spooge out like grease.....although, grease does work in a lot of cases. It didn't with mine. Had to cut it out. And, of course, didn't know about the wax method then, either.

Clutch kit will come an alignment tool. Should, anyway. Don't know that it makes mating the tranny up any easier, but it does the clutch plate.

If you're friend has the money to spare, rent a tranny jack or borrow one. Take the tranny and t-case down with crossmember as one unit.

Replace the shifter bushing and seat while you're at it.

Refill the tranny (if you drain it) at the shifter hole with fill plug out, of course. Use some MT-90 to refill......great stuff.

Use a bottle jack under the motor to help getting the right angle to mate the tranny up. As well, some ratchet straps coming from the front axle to the tranny to keep it "pulled" towards the motor as you are lining it up and installing. (Works great for pulling it off of the motor, too)

That's all I can think of. Pretty much everything else is self explanatory once you're in there.

Tubbyfatty

Dont use the bolts to pull the tranny on the engine. You could snap something on the clutch. Wait till its seated on the clutch/engine before you tighten the bolts.

Jay351

Tranny jack adapter.... The r150f and t-case is pretty damn heavy when its on your chest...

Very straightforward Make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced..

thook

Sorry......how's that? I could see snapping a bolt or stripping them if the tranny is hanging up on the input shaft, but what could snap in the clutch? I ask because I've done this method before. I didn't tighten them all the way to pull the tranny up, but I did tighten incrementally as I was able to get the input shaft further in through the teeth on the clutch. I didn't have any problems this way.

Doc.Gneoson

x2 on the tranny jack or adaptor, getting it out without was pretty crazy, and putting it in with was a breeze, and
the greese methode for the pilot bearing didn't work for me it just pushed out throught the dust seals, the wax method is supposed to help this not happen i think? i couldn't find any wax though, i made a home made puller

NathanBlake13

I just did this last week on my back in the snow, because I am an idiot it took me about 30hrs. (I am so ashamed, don't worry, it won't take you anywhere near that long.) Make sure you drop the crossmember, and front driveshaft. Quite a few posts said just leave it on but that (among the other shadetree crackercraft mistakes and unavoidables) is the single biggest reason that it took me so much time. I was on my back on the ground so the angle I had to put the trans. in wouldn't work for me with the crossmember on.
So if I had to do it again
1.Crossmember.
2.There are two starter bolts- 1 on engine side and 1 on trans side.
3.Do not force it. Pulling it with a strap is wrong! It will just slide in when everything is lined up perfectly and the stars are aligned and the gods have mercy on your soul. (okay that's just how it felt for me) I got the last three inches for flippin hours but I didn't realize I was getting caught on the exhaust y pipe coming off the heads.
4.Get yourself about 4 feet of extensions to get the top 2 bolts on the bellhousing .
5.There are a milion things in between but This whole job is actually a pretty easy, maybe 30 or so bolts total-start to finish!
5. Remove access panel to get at starter. (little plate inside wheel well passenger side)
6.Somebody posted to drop the skidplate and get about 24inches of extension to get the starter bolt on engine side. There is a pic somewhere on this site I think.
7.Grease worked great for me.
I'm done, somebody else finish this thread off.

Matt16

Could I get clarification on a couple points?

• What's this "grease trick" how does it work...
• can I leave the motor unsupported on the engine mounts with the tranny off?
• How heavy is the tranny+t-case+ xmember?
• How long does this take, roughly, the first time?

Matt16

answered my own question.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSGD9UuI5-I[/youtube]

Doc.Gneoson

-you cannot leave the tranny on/x-member off without support(prob obvious), but once the tranny is off the engine's fine on its own
-i would take the x-member off first and its really light(remember to support trans), the tranny/transfer is quite heavy i would say at least 100lbs of awkwardness, some pple say the've muscled it out with a couple pple but i wouldn't be able to, i took it out by myself in my driveway using two jacks lol, i got a tranny jack to put it back in which was a night and day difference
-cant quite remember but it was prob a solid 5 hours to take it al off(getting the tranny down maybe a little longer lol), then a few days of f'n around(getting parts,tools/trying to get the pilot bearing out,etc) then prob a solid 8-10 hours all back together and running

Jay351

When I removed the tranny, we just removed the Tranny,t-case, front shaft and the crossmember... all as one peice.

If you have a tranny jack or adapter you can do it this way. we did it with just one regular floor jack and ALOT of muscle.

Your first time will probibly take you all day..

let me know if you need a hand

NathanBlake13

Hey man- That video is just about worthless for the task at hand.
(removing the pilot bearing with hydraulic pressure!)
I used a 1/4 inch drive 1/4 inch socket. (I am pretty sure it was 1/4, it was whatever fit perfectly inside the hole for the bearing.) I put a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter on the back of the socket so as to make a plug out of the socket. Then I took my trusty grease gun and backfilled the area behind the bearing (with the flywheel still attached)
I had to line up my "plug" through the center of the pilot bearing and give a few light taps with my mallet.
Those few taps would push the bearing out just a tiny bit so I would backfill the area with grease again and tap the plug in again.
Quite a few people talked about blowing through their bearings using this method, so I used CAUTION, and used LIGHT, GENTLE taps.
If you don't have a bearing puller this method should work.
Took me maybe 15 minutes.
Have fun! I just scooped the excess grease off and shot about a can of brake cleaner on it to clean everything up nice nice.