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Just added ac system to 1986 truck and searching for the black/white wire under the fuse box for the compressor, the truck was not originally equipped with air so perhaps its not there and I need to run one. However, I did find this 3 wire connector tucked under there and was hoping someone could tell me what it is?
where does the bundle come out of the harness? a pic from less close might help to show the general location. also might help to know whether 2wd/4wd, etc. assume non-turbo, but 22re. what transmission? etc.
It comes from the bundle to the right of the connector, it's a 2x4 22r 5 speed. One of the three wires has the same color code (black/white with red dots) as one the wires on the ac switch on the dash. From all I've heard the wire going to the ac compressor will be a single wire.
You are missing the short three connector wiring harness that connects to the connector that you posted. This short wiring harness is only needed for 22R engines and would have come with the factory Air Conditioning kit for dealer installations.
The two wire connector is for the idle-up Vacuum Switching Valve and the one wire connector is for the compressor, the connector you were looking for.
Great, so all I need is to visit the salvage yard and get the harness, I guess I will also need the vacuum switching valve as well.
Thanks, this site is awesome!
If you're interested, I can make that sub harness completely new. Looks like the part number is 88648-89115 and fits 84-88 pickups and 4runners with the 22r/22re engine. The wiring is color matched to my 86 pickup's harness. Here's the link to the ebay listing I just made, I don't think there will be too much interest, but if it sells out, shoot me a pm that you're interested and I'll try to get more made (limited stock atm on the connectors).
I have a new dilemma, I was able to match up all the connectors under the dash except these two? Are they extras? the truck is 1986 and the ac system came out of a 1988 4runner, the one from the truck is a 4 pin and the 4runner a 5
That 4 pin connectors I have the mate for, the other connector I'm not sure, I'd have to see it better. I could make a pig tail to splice to the right connector's harness so it's plug and play, but I'll have to research the exact plug on both vehicles to see if they are compatible and if the wire colors match up for the same functions. I have an 86 wire diagram book and an 87. Pretty sure 88 is very close if not the same as 87 though.
I remember the older trucks had like a sub harness for the AC parts too, can't see the right connector super great, though. I think I have the interior AC sub harness sitting in my parts truck yet.
I assume the 4 pin connector isn't for the optional clock that goes by the heater controls, pretty sure it was the same 4 pin connector though, but it doesn't look like the wire is long enough to reach in that area.
Alright, went to my 86 pickup to check the harnesses I have in it. I found a same connector bot looks to have different wire colors than yours. Not sure what the little connector with the wire loop is for, but I could make those 100% if anyone knows. I'd have to look at the harness again to get an idea of the physical location it should be. Harness was from an 86 4x4 pickup 22r (re swapped in) manual trans. Just catching things in the pic, it's not super far from the ECU/COR it looks like. Pretty sure that truck did have AC too.
Anyway, I found a 6 pin connector (4 wires) right where the main harness goes through the fire wall, right next to where the COR splits from the harness. Pretty sure that's the mating plug for the one on the right in your pic, atleast looks similar.
Here's that same connector on my 86 truck, glove box is installed, so a little hard to get pics.
Looks like it runs down to a few connections, so is another small sub harness, unless I didn't follow the right wire (tight spot).
I'm pretty sure those 3 connections are part of a sub harness, I kind of recall having one off a truck before. The wire colors don't seem to match the other connector though, so kind of thinking I followed the wire wrong.
Anyway, I'll bust out the 86 wire diagram and see if I can locate either connector and make a bit more sense of things.
As you can see, M1 and M2 are two different options for connectors, atleast for the 86 trucks. turbo 2wd, and all 22r (carb) had the 4 pin. The towing package one doesn't make much sense, both connectors have it noted lol. In the diagram it shows the 4 pin was for trucks w\o tow package and 6 pin for with tow package. Not even sure how to tell the difference for the tow package xD.
The 4 pin connector should be this pinout for your truck based on the 86 diagram.
1 - Black/Red - AC Idle up VSV 1
2 - Black/White - AC Clutch
3 - Black - Igniter (rpm signal maybe?)
4 - Blue - AC Idle up VSV 2
I think I'm starting to understand these diagrams a little better. These pre 1990 diagrams I've had a hard time following exactly, like identifying sub harnesses and such. Anyway, that 4 pin connector ultimately ends up at that 3 pin sub harness I mentioned back a few posts that's under the hood, and the 4th wire comes from the igniter (rpm signal?).
The other connector on the right I think I found in the 87 wire diagram (doesn't exist in the 86 one). I know 87 had quite a lot of redesigns on the electrical, the main connector for the tail light wiring changed that year too. Anyway, the connector has notes that it's for the 22RE and 22RTE (fuel injected and turbo'ed). The carb'ed one used the same connectors as my 86.
Anyway, the connector I Id'ed in the book is labeled as M1, here's the pin out:
1 - Black/Red - Weird wire, looks like it basically jumps from pin 5 as a blue wire
2 - Brown or Black/Yellow depending on tow package - AC Clutch
3 - Looks like no connection/not used
4 - Black - Igniter
5 - Black/Yellow - From ignition fuse
6 - Blue - AC Idle up VSV 1
Also, FYI, the AC amp has different pin outs based on engine/tow package etc too. Best I can tell, the main difference is the power source for the AC Idle up VSV is from the AC amp on the 86 truck, and for the 88 it's from the ign fuse directly. Guess the wiring you need will depend on which AC amp you're running (the 88 or 86?). If I'm understanding the wiring right, I should be able to make the pig tail and you swap the connector out and it should work. Only thing I'm not sure of is the VSV.
I jumped in the 89 manual, the layout/format of the diagrams changed (ones I understand better). It does the same odd loop thing from pin 1 to 5 though. I "scanned" it with my phone, not the perfect lighting, but should be readable. I don't have the 88 book, but looks like the pinout/wire colors are the same and it's the better design of diagram, so figured it would be easier to follow. FYI, this 89 book is ONLY for 4runner because of the odd one year thing they did there.
Anyway, hopefully between all the diagrams I posted, the other members here, and what I can tell from my limited knowledge of the 87+ trucks, you can get something figured out, or I can build something for you to make the two work together. I'm sure other people run into the same issue, so finding a solid solution would be a good thing for anyone in the future that runs into the same problem.
EDIT:
Alright, I went out back to my two 87 parts trucks, one didn't have AC (was 22R anyway), and the other was 22RE 4x4 with AC. Here's how the 87 system (and probably the same as the 88 you pulled) looks. Ignore the nice and burnt wires from the harness side of that 6 pin connector (only 5 used). I've also confirmed that connector is the one I found in the wire diagrams. Pin 1 and 5 are looped together on the sub harness side which means the AC amp you have isn't ideal for your vehicle. The 89 description suggests the AC amp grounds the terminal to the VSV to turn it on, so running power to it all the time should be ok (the 87+ style appears to have power whenever key is on via ignition fuse). On the 86 truck, I think it is possible to tap into a power source that will make it work correctly with the newer AC amp. Basically the black/white wire (pin 2 of ac amp) is powered only when the AC switch is on and is ran through the AC fuse. Clearly you'd have to either do some wire splicing to make this work, or I'd have to build a sub harness that adapts the two systems together.
Ironically, that 9 pin connector for the AC Amp I have the male side of it, the older truck's taillight harness used the same connector. I don't have any of the female ones on hand, but I have the part numbers noted, so I should be able to find a source for it. The 6 pin connector is where I'll have to do more research. I've never seen that connector series before, but I have a guy I could ping if I can't find who makes it or what it's called. If I can find that, I should be able to make a stock replacement sub harness, and also adapt between the two systems. I'll have to play around with the AC Amp (build a little test bench for it) and test the functions between the two styles. Luckily I have both the old and newer style ac amps on hand, hopefully they work xD.
The AC amp should have a part number on it, that will probably be the most reliable way to figure out the interchange on the adapter harness and such. There are some wire colors I don't have on hand as well, looks like I'll have to order 3 colors to make things the correct color.
Anyway, hopefully that wasn't a massive overload of info. I need to pull the sub harness out of my 86 (22r engine) and make sure I get the pin outs figured out correctly. For your case, I'm pretty sure I could make the 4 pin pig tail for your connector, and you'd splice 3 of the wires to where the 6 pin connector is (5 used, 2 pins just loop to each other and go nowhere), and the 4th wire would have to tap into the black/white wire near the 2 pin connector, or at the 9 pin connector. If you'd rather wait for the whole sub harness adapter, I plan to make one as long as I can find that 6 pin connector. Another route you could go is buy the AC amp (and matching sub harness) for the 86 and older style trucks (assuming here 84-85 are the same as the 86, don't have books for them, only 83).
I'm thinking a pin out of the AC amp for the different types/years would be a good resource to figure out and post online. I suspect the basic design of them hasn't changed, so maybe it's possible to use a more modern one on the older trucks, assuming that part is hard to find, just might need an adapter harness.
Also, note that on the left side of my pic there's an AC relay and fuse box, assuming you got that, but figured I'd make sure. Not sure if the older trucks had that setup or not. I'll know better once I pull the 86 apart.
Wow, just looked up an AC amp on ebay, sold one was listed for $140 for an 85, nuts. Guess I better not burn any of mine up testing them and this adapter lol. I'd assume the 90's era toyota camry ac amp would be a solid one to target to adapt to if it can be made to work. Was a very popular car for it's time, so parts should be cheap.
EDIT again
I pulled the glove box out of my 86 and pulled the sub harness I've been talking about, the ac amp (to play with it and test it, my AC didn't work in that truck when I drove it), and I found another sub harness that has that ac relay and the small fuse box. That fuse box sub harness connects to the ac amp sub harness (sub harness to sub harness yay). I suspect it's the same case again, that 2nd sub harness probably changes 86 and older vs 87 and newer (with a few exceptions in the middle). Here's the list of part numbers (as I can read them on the parts) that I'm pretty sure should all work together. Also side note, the ac amp and sub harness that matches it uses a green connector, probably so it's ez to id them apart.
AC amp: 077100-0651
AC amp sub harness (4 pin version) - 246410-7600 (numbers very faded, nothing comes up for this number on google, it's a 2wd long box 22r 5 speed extra cab, prob a pretty unique truck)
AC fuse box sub harness - 82213-89102
AC relay - 90987-04002
Also, update on the 6 pin connector, I found a source for it. It seems like it's not too commonly used any more and it has a fairly high price as far as connectors go (about 4x more than the 4 pin connector). I also figured out the part number for the 9 pin connector, it's also not very well known and of course costs even more. Gonna be kind of expensive to get into these sub harnesses, so I'll have to charge a bit for them to off set the initial costs, but I'm sure there's people out there that really need them. Doing a little research, looks like those sub harnesses are very rarely listed on ebay, hitting around $100. I did some quick math, and I'd be sitting around $60 shipped for the sub harness. If I get good interest, I'd be able to lower the price a bit. That's for a stock replacement harness atleast, the adapter harness I'll have to look into yet.
Last edited by atcfixer; Aug 12, 2021 at 10:52 PM.
Looking back on this, I see the ac amp is the natural colored connector, which shows it should be the 87+ style which matches the harness connector difference. I should be able to make an adapter using the 9 pin connector on the AC amp to fill all 4 pins of the connector you're needing. Just 2 connectors, probably be like a $35 adapter shipped. and you'd be able to use all of the existing stuff you already bought.
Anyway, I'll build a "T" adapter that's purely plug and play style. I'll have to throw a battery in my parts truck to test it, of course I'd have to diag why the AC doesn't kick the pump on in the first place in the truck. Then use the 87+ sub harness + ac amp with the adapter to make sure it works right.
Here's the AC Amp pinouts side by side:
The wiring matches up all except the VSV pin 2 on the old one (provide power to it from +12 pin), and the low pressure switch signal is slightly different between the two but I can make it work like the OE old style one.
Just for giggles, I have an 97 4runner parts machine with ac (like all had ac). The wiring diagram shows it's circuit is simplified quite a lot. It looks like they took a lot of the "brain" power out of the AC amp, so there's no engine rpm signal and such. It just has a couple signal wires to the ECU and the ECU tells it to kick the ac on/off based on engine conditions (too low rpm cut off, and high load/rpm cut off). Besides missing those features, I'm pretty sure the newer one will work if wired correctly. It has the same power and ground setup, the low pressure switch, thermistor, ac clutch, etc. Just no vsv or rpm signals. The VSV could be wired along side the AC clutch since they both normally operate together anyway. Right now there's a 99 4runner ac amp for $40, 100% new is about $100. Not great, but the part is in production yet, so that is kind of nice xD. There's a bunch of mid 2000's Solara ac amps for $30, but I didn't check their wiring. I probably should start a thread on this to gauge if there's any interest in them at all.
Anyway, I'll wait for the OP's reply to build the adapter, unless someone else needs one.
Last edited by atcfixer; Aug 18, 2021 at 03:02 PM.
Looking back on this, I see the ac amp is the natural colored connector, which shows it should be the 87+ style which matches the harness connector difference. I should be able to make an adapter using the 9 pin connector on the AC amp to fill all 4 pins of the connector you're needing. Just 2 connectors, probably be like a $35 adapter shipped. and you'd be able to use all of the existing stuff you already bought.
Anyway, I'll build a "T" adapter that's purely plug and play style. I'll have to throw a battery in my parts truck to test it, of course I'd have to diag why the AC doesn't kick the pump on in the first place in the truck. Then use the 87+ sub harness + ac amp with the adapter to make sure it works right.
Here's the AC Amp pinouts side by side:
The wiring matches up all except the VSV pin 2 on the old one (provide power to it from +12 pin), and the low pressure switch signal is slightly different between the two but I can make it work like the OE old style one.
Just for giggles, I have an 97 4runner parts machine with ac (like all had ac). The wiring diagram shows it's circuit is simplified quite a lot. It looks like they took a lot of the "brain" power out of the AC amp, so there's no engine rpm signal and such. It just has a couple signal wires to the ECU and the ECU tells it to kick the ac on/off based on engine conditions (too low rpm cut off, and high load/rpm cut off). Besides missing those features, I'm pretty sure the newer one will work if wired correctly. It has the same power and ground setup, the low pressure switch, thermistor, ac clutch, etc. Just no vsv or rpm signals. The VSV could be wired along side the AC clutch since they both normally operate together anyway. Right now there's a 99 4runner ac amp for $40, 100% new is about $100. Not great, but the part is in production yet, so that is kind of nice xD. There's a bunch of mid 2000's Solara ac amps for $30, but I didn't check their wiring. I probably should start a thread on this to gauge if there's any interest in them at all.
Anyway, I'll wait for the OP's reply to build the adapter, unless someone else needs one.
Are you still build the harnesses and if so could I get one?