Is there a step by step writeup for dummies regarding replacing the HG on a 95 3.0?


I searched and found lots of threads, but none showing any usefull info except suggested replacing the knock sensor and wire.


Just got the truck, cheap.
If its just the gasket I wanna replace it and drive the truck a while & sell.

thanks.

 

Factory manual is the best source. Look for one on E-Bay, or try this link...

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

Be sure you replace and do not re-use your head bolts.

 

Great link, thanks!

If the heads are cracked, that 1UZ swap is looking pretty do-able.

'Course if gas stays $3.50 a gal, I might do the VolksWagen 1.9 turbodiesel.

Got this truck for $700. The most money for the least work would be to part it out, But I hate to part out a very nice truck.

we bought a 96 model 4 yrs ago, with 105K on it, and its been a very troublefree vehicle, now has 220K on it, and the starter & o2 sensor is the only thing I ve changed.

 

If your heads are craccked, I've got a pair for sale.

 

Cebby,

just hurry it up with the 1UZ transplant, would ya, so I can do it too!

WHich site has the best writeup so far?
lextreme, yotatech, pirate? any others I havent seen?

I bought the metric sockets yesterday, was gonna start the hugely long process of pulling them,
( i downloaded the manual, wow, it looks alot more complex than pulling the heads on a FOrd 5.o)
but wound up doing a vacuum, wash & wax on the wifes 96 4Runner instead, since she and four friends were going on a trip this weekend.

Im undecided about fixing the gaskets, and selling the truck or keeping it, if I keep it the 1UZ would be sweet, and probabley not use any more gas than the 3.0

Should get over 20 mpg on the highway, the wifes fathers new Chevy 4WD full size gets 22-23 on the interstate, so the 1UZ should do the same or better in the 4runner.

but if gas goes to $4 a gallon, doing the V W diesel swap would be good, with just a little modification thay can produce the same HP & TQ as the stock 3.0 yota engine.

I used to think the "peak oil" theory was just a theory.

BTW, PM me with the asking price on the heads & do you know what they weigh for shipping?

 

DMG had pulled together info on the HG replacement costs for me, but I can't find it anywhere.

I have a sale pending on my complete motor, but if that falls through I'll likely start parting the ol' slug out.

 

have your injectors "rebuilt" its $80 well spent.

-youll likely be nickel and dimmed to death little stuff...(hoses, knock sensor wire, etc)
-clean the upper intake of all the nasty black gunk
-do the timming belt/waterpump
-plugs/wires/cap/rotor

Cost me $300 for .008 off the heads, 3angle valve job and seats. I set valves myself and saved $$.

contact engbldr for head bolts and gaskets.

 

as for costs...

$300 for basic head work
$80 injector rebuild
$150 for timmingbelt/water pump including new idler pullys
$100 plugs/wires/cap/rotor
$30 head bolts
$50-75 gaskets? (i bought the master gasket kit)
$100 in misc STUFF (heater hoses, fluids, upper/lower hoses, fan belts...)

the above is ~$800

 

Where do you get the injectors rebuilt?

the water pump looks like it got replaced at the last HG job, but the timing belt looks old, and one injector looks like it leaks.

Also the heads look good, and all the exhaust valves are good.
Has new rad hoses,
I will replace the knock sensor wire and TB, get it running and sell it before the HG blows again.

 

DO I put any gasket goo on the HGs or just lay em on and bolt em down?