2JZ-GE + turbo swap
#62
Thanks, I hope that everyting even looks better after I worked on all them hoses and crap. I want to make some aluminum piping for the coolanthoses to the turbo and reroute and tidy all the other ones.
Just got word from a supplier that my mandrel exhaust bends are in, as are several silicone hoses and other smal crap. I hope the SS bends are thinwall, the ones I normally use are 2 or 2.5mm which is really heavy.
Still need to pick up a new argon bottle for the TIG, hope my wallet doesn't dry up first after all the bills. Lucky thing is the wife really doesn't mind the hobby.
Only thing is that she wonders why the runner is getting so fast, plus she's asking for better brakes.
Which brings me to another subject:
It is getting really scary to (try to) stop at high speeds. That and she starts pulling to the left again when braking. I allready overhauled the calipers etc., but I still do not have the stopping power I want. And it looks like I'm gonna need it.
So; does anybody have any info on disc diameters for yota 6 hole front discs?
I remember reading something on a tundra upgrade, but info is limited. I have read it's been done on IFS newer models, but since I do not have access on tundra stuff (and a SAS) it's useless to me.
Does anybody have info,data off any kind or maybe an old discs to measure?
I allready have searched the european info, but the only disc that will fit has a 5 bolt, so that is not an option. I have tried supra calipers and discs from the last supra, which will fit but is also 5 bolt.
If anybody is interested in a real brake upgrade to larger and thicker discs, chime in and maybe we can engineer a bracket for the calipers if the discs is a bolt on (of some sorts
)
Just got word from a supplier that my mandrel exhaust bends are in, as are several silicone hoses and other smal crap. I hope the SS bends are thinwall, the ones I normally use are 2 or 2.5mm which is really heavy.
Still need to pick up a new argon bottle for the TIG, hope my wallet doesn't dry up first after all the bills. Lucky thing is the wife really doesn't mind the hobby.
Only thing is that she wonders why the runner is getting so fast, plus she's asking for better brakes.
Which brings me to another subject:
It is getting really scary to (try to) stop at high speeds. That and she starts pulling to the left again when braking. I allready overhauled the calipers etc., but I still do not have the stopping power I want. And it looks like I'm gonna need it.
So; does anybody have any info on disc diameters for yota 6 hole front discs?
I remember reading something on a tundra upgrade, but info is limited. I have read it's been done on IFS newer models, but since I do not have access on tundra stuff (and a SAS) it's useless to me.
Does anybody have info,data off any kind or maybe an old discs to measure?
I allready have searched the european info, but the only disc that will fit has a 5 bolt, so that is not an option. I have tried supra calipers and discs from the last supra, which will fit but is also 5 bolt.
If anybody is interested in a real brake upgrade to larger and thicker discs, chime in and maybe we can engineer a bracket for the calipers if the discs is a bolt on (of some sorts
)
#64
Another update
Hi again.
I had a day off for some business and got a change to do some real testdriving. She runs fine, but after a few sprints at low boost the intercooler hoses poped right off. Retightened all clamps (which were suplied with the kit and are off the cheapest china quality) and little later some thing happened again.
I really need to mount the blowoff valve as soon as possible.
Picked up a new argon bottle to weld a tube for the blowoof on the last intake bend, just before the throttle valve. Did a testweld and luckily the thin wall aluminum can be welded just fine with the old TIG welder I have.
But ran out of time to mount it.
I did get a change to get a dozen of big SS worm clamps (another $50) and the SS exhaust bends came in.
I immidiately mounted the new SS clamps and this is what the first silicone coupler looked like after removing it:

Mmmh, really good stuff. As I had everything in my hand I also found that the silicone couplers are made of the same quality or originated in the same crappy factory.
probably made from recycled condoms..
I did order one new one from Greddy for above the turbo and I will try to weld the rest of the pipes. Look at how the blue coupler on the intake body has swollen into a ballon:

In the meantime my supervisor pointed out how to gain some additional horsepower:

Also have my weekend planned sine the exhaust parts came in.
3" thinwall SS like I hoped. The testpieces look okay and are leightweight considering its SS. I also ordered an 'axlehoop' which is probably a bit low in height, but I can lenghten it easily with 2 small pieces of straight pipe.
Still considering making my own muffler out of the old SS BMW I run now. Just have to build a larger bore perforated tube in it and repack it with the old SS woll.
I had a day off for some business and got a change to do some real testdriving. She runs fine, but after a few sprints at low boost the intercooler hoses poped right off. Retightened all clamps (which were suplied with the kit and are off the cheapest china quality) and little later some thing happened again.
I really need to mount the blowoff valve as soon as possible.
Picked up a new argon bottle to weld a tube for the blowoof on the last intake bend, just before the throttle valve. Did a testweld and luckily the thin wall aluminum can be welded just fine with the old TIG welder I have.
But ran out of time to mount it.
I did get a change to get a dozen of big SS worm clamps (another $50) and the SS exhaust bends came in.
I immidiately mounted the new SS clamps and this is what the first silicone coupler looked like after removing it:

Mmmh, really good stuff. As I had everything in my hand I also found that the silicone couplers are made of the same quality or originated in the same crappy factory.
probably made from recycled condoms..I did order one new one from Greddy for above the turbo and I will try to weld the rest of the pipes. Look at how the blue coupler on the intake body has swollen into a ballon:

In the meantime my supervisor pointed out how to gain some additional horsepower:

Also have my weekend planned sine the exhaust parts came in.
3" thinwall SS like I hoped. The testpieces look okay and are leightweight considering its SS. I also ordered an 'axlehoop' which is probably a bit low in height, but I can lenghten it easily with 2 small pieces of straight pipe.
Still considering making my own muffler out of the old SS BMW I run now. Just have to build a larger bore perforated tube in it and repack it with the old SS woll.
#65
Bov
Had a change to do dome work last night and this afternoon, so i started welding some connections to the last intake bend. The big one is for the BOV, the small one for the idle up from the powersteering. Also buffed it up to give it the same look as the other pipes.

Hooked it up fast cause someone dropped off a 4R for an overhaul and I wanted to take a testdrive with the BOV functional and in daylight.

So I did make a testdrive and took the guy and his wife with me
With full throttle I managed a topspeed of 110 mph (just dropped into 5th gear) with 3 passengers, uphill within a 2 miles distance before an emergencystop
I guess about 105-110 in 4th at 7100 rpm at just under 5 psi boost. Only thing I'm really sure off is the top speed and boost, I was busy concentrating on not taking of in the curve
I'll try to hook up my digicam somehow in the back of the 4R and post this weekend.
O, I only made 3 runs and now my brakes are toast. Puls to the left , and hard, realy hard.
I think I have a stuck piston in the right caliper or something. Or maybe the brakepads are glazed or whatever you call it in English.
Nobody any info on those Tundra brakes?

Hooked it up fast cause someone dropped off a 4R for an overhaul and I wanted to take a testdrive with the BOV functional and in daylight.

So I did make a testdrive and took the guy and his wife with me
With full throttle I managed a topspeed of 110 mph (just dropped into 5th gear) with 3 passengers, uphill within a 2 miles distance before an emergencystop
I guess about 105-110 in 4th at 7100 rpm at just under 5 psi boost. Only thing I'm really sure off is the top speed and boost, I was busy concentrating on not taking of in the curve
I'll try to hook up my digicam somehow in the back of the 4R and post this weekend.
O, I only made 3 runs and now my brakes are toast. Puls to the left , and hard, realy hard.
I think I have a stuck piston in the right caliper or something. Or maybe the brakepads are glazed or whatever you call it in English.
Nobody any info on those Tundra brakes?
#66
The Tundra brakes upgrade is for later model Tacomas (1995.5-2004) and 4Runners (1996-2002) and unfortunately I don't think it works with earlier gen 4Runners.
From what I have read, for 2nd gen 4Runners the easiest route to go would be slotted rotors (from either Brembo or Powerslot) and high performance ceramic brake pads. You're doing dome pretty heavy braking so ceramic pads are definitely the way to go as they work better as their temperature increases. Slotted rotors are a good option as they make sure you are braking with fresh pad material by scraping off old material (pads won't last as long, but ceramics will be better than regular). You might consider going with cross-drilled/slotted rotors (as long as they're high quality, say from Brembo) to enhance rotor cooling. You had also better go with stainless steel brake lines, and high temperature synthetic brake fluid. Upgrading the master cylinder might also be an option to check in to, say from a T-100.
I suppose there is a possibility that brakes from a similar year Landcruiser are worth checking in to, but to upgrade to bigger rotors/calipers you'll need to get bigger wheels, probably 16" ones. One way or another there are no aftermarket options for big brake packages from Stoptech or Brembo.
EDIT: You might also consider doing a rear disc-brake conversion, to help your rear-end do more of the work. You will lose your e-brake however, unless you get a driveline brake on the t-case output.
From what I have read, for 2nd gen 4Runners the easiest route to go would be slotted rotors (from either Brembo or Powerslot) and high performance ceramic brake pads. You're doing dome pretty heavy braking so ceramic pads are definitely the way to go as they work better as their temperature increases. Slotted rotors are a good option as they make sure you are braking with fresh pad material by scraping off old material (pads won't last as long, but ceramics will be better than regular). You might consider going with cross-drilled/slotted rotors (as long as they're high quality, say from Brembo) to enhance rotor cooling. You had also better go with stainless steel brake lines, and high temperature synthetic brake fluid. Upgrading the master cylinder might also be an option to check in to, say from a T-100.
I suppose there is a possibility that brakes from a similar year Landcruiser are worth checking in to, but to upgrade to bigger rotors/calipers you'll need to get bigger wheels, probably 16" ones. One way or another there are no aftermarket options for big brake packages from Stoptech or Brembo.
EDIT: You might also consider doing a rear disc-brake conversion, to help your rear-end do more of the work. You will lose your e-brake however, unless you get a driveline brake on the t-case output.
Last edited by mastacox; Mar 30, 2007 at 12:57 PM.
#67
I was hoping the tundra discs would fit since they are both 6 bolt (I think).
And I was hoping they were thicker and larger. That's why I switched to 16" rims in the first place.
The rear axle is allready prepared for everything: LC 80 full floater, discs, locker and 4.88 9.5" R&P, centered diff.
Also got an allpro parking brake, LC80 mastercylinder, Brembo front discs and synthetic fluid.
Next step indeed should be new and SS braided lines all around. If I have any money left.
I can fit any caliper I want, as long as I can find those discs.
I was hoping to avoid have to have it all custom build and make my own stuff.
Checked some pricing on this and custom setups run up to $6500 for this over here, that is for the best stuff available, but way out of my financial reach.
And I was hoping they were thicker and larger. That's why I switched to 16" rims in the first place.
The rear axle is allready prepared for everything: LC 80 full floater, discs, locker and 4.88 9.5" R&P, centered diff.
Also got an allpro parking brake, LC80 mastercylinder, Brembo front discs and synthetic fluid.
Next step indeed should be new and SS braided lines all around. If I have any money left.
I can fit any caliper I want, as long as I can find those discs.
I was hoping to avoid have to have it all custom build and make my own stuff.
Checked some pricing on this and custom setups run up to $6500 for this over here, that is for the best stuff available, but way out of my financial reach.
#68
video
It's finally decent weather so I took the change to shoot a quick video this morning.
It allready was busy on the local roads, so I had to cut out some pices of film.
I welded some of the piping together to prevent the hoses from coming off and now the blow off valve can do its job. Which you can hear
Due to my crappy brakes I had to start braking long time before a planned stop. An emergency stop is even worse
I still haven't done anything for more fuel and the wastegate is constant open so there is only giant turbo lag and 0.3 bar turbopressure from 4000 rpm. I think fuelcut is at 7100-7200 rpm, attleast that's were she runs out off power now. The setup is good for 1.0 bar as soon as she has enough fuel.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v5...nt=testrit.flv
It allready was busy on the local roads, so I had to cut out some pices of film.
I welded some of the piping together to prevent the hoses from coming off and now the blow off valve can do its job. Which you can hear
Due to my crappy brakes I had to start braking long time before a planned stop. An emergency stop is even worse
I still haven't done anything for more fuel and the wastegate is constant open so there is only giant turbo lag and 0.3 bar turbopressure from 4000 rpm. I think fuelcut is at 7100-7200 rpm, attleast that's were she runs out off power now. The setup is good for 1.0 bar as soon as she has enough fuel.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v5...nt=testrit.flv
#69
i don't know if you are going to continue with the piggy back idea for fuel management- but the Mega-Squirt system seems to be a good idea, open source, all kinds of other cool nerd things that go along with that system- and IIRC it wasn't too bad money wise. good-luck...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MegaSquirt
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MegaSquirt
Last edited by Jonnym; Apr 24, 2007 at 08:11 PM.
#70
It's finally decent weather so I took the change to shoot a quick video this morning.
It allready was busy on the local roads, so I had to cut out some pices of film.
I welded some of the piping together to prevent the hoses from coming off and now the blow off valve can do its job. Which you can hear
Due to my crappy brakes I had to start braking long time before a planned stop. An emergency stop is even worse
I still haven't done anything for more fuel and the wastegate is constant open so there is only giant turbo lag and 0.3 bar turbopressure from 4000 rpm. I think fuelcut is at 7100-7200 rpm, attleast that's were she runs out off power now. The setup is good for 1.0 bar as soon as she has enough fuel.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v5...nt=testrit.flv
It allready was busy on the local roads, so I had to cut out some pices of film.
I welded some of the piping together to prevent the hoses from coming off and now the blow off valve can do its job. Which you can hear
Due to my crappy brakes I had to start braking long time before a planned stop. An emergency stop is even worse
I still haven't done anything for more fuel and the wastegate is constant open so there is only giant turbo lag and 0.3 bar turbopressure from 4000 rpm. I think fuelcut is at 7100-7200 rpm, attleast that's were she runs out off power now. The setup is good for 1.0 bar as soon as she has enough fuel.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v5...nt=testrit.flv
Really cool video thanks for the 5min vacation back home, love that dutch countryside,was that around your home town?... she sounds sweet
Cheers Aviator
#71
Jonnym:
I'm not doing it myself but I am depending on the expertise of somebody else.
I could buy a mega or similar and hook it up, but I do not have the knowledge or equipment to tune it in properly without the risk of engine damage.
If this all will take too long I think I will buy one and ask him to tune it. But for now I do not have any spare time left to work on the project, so this all will have to wait a short period.
Plus the brakes need to be solved first before we run into problems......
Aviator
Yes, that's around my hometown and a small bit across the border into Germany. It's supposed to be the more 'hilly' side of Holland. The majority is, as you would know, ahem... flat.
As soon as the exhaust is done and the turbo opened up fully I hope she will sound even better.
I'm not doing it myself but I am depending on the expertise of somebody else.
I could buy a mega or similar and hook it up, but I do not have the knowledge or equipment to tune it in properly without the risk of engine damage.
If this all will take too long I think I will buy one and ask him to tune it. But for now I do not have any spare time left to work on the project, so this all will have to wait a short period.
Plus the brakes need to be solved first before we run into problems......
Aviator
Yes, that's around my hometown and a small bit across the border into Germany. It's supposed to be the more 'hilly' side of Holland. The majority is, as you would know, ahem... flat.
As soon as the exhaust is done and the turbo opened up fully I hope she will sound even better.
#72
my part of holland is plenty hilly but I know what you mean...
I say if your going to build your own country why go to the hassle and expense of adding hills when trees and dykes are pretty enough right?
and with out hills you can see the police well before they can radar you when you are out "testing"... haha
I say if your going to build your own country why go to the hassle and expense of adding hills when trees and dykes are pretty enough right?
and with out hills you can see the police well before they can radar you when you are out "testing"... haha
#73
Your right, cheap basterds like we dutch are, they obviously removed the hills from their budget a few decades ago.
I do have hills so a cop lasergunned me last week. She was hiding in behind a tree on the top of a small hill after a curve. 87 in a 50 zone.
She was good looking though and after a brief apology from my side she let me go with only a warning.
O yeah: we have a new law since about 2 years over here: cought streetracing; immediate lose of drivers license and car impounded.
Over 50 to fast; again you loose your license on the spot and you will have to leave the car where it is.
This means I have to keep my cool cause I can allready loose my license in 2nd gear.
I do have hills so a cop lasergunned me last week. She was hiding in behind a tree on the top of a small hill after a curve. 87 in a 50 zone.
She was good looking though and after a brief apology from my side she let me go with only a warning.
O yeah: we have a new law since about 2 years over here: cought streetracing; immediate lose of drivers license and car impounded.
Over 50 to fast; again you loose your license on the spot and you will have to leave the car where it is.
This means I have to keep my cool cause I can allready loose my license in 2nd gear.
#74
wonder if that was my cousin?
I've actually got a few on the force[s] back home...
sounds like they're getting serious about curbing speeding...but hey the autobahn is only a short distance away right?
if they say you were racing tell the officer you were trying to get away from the hooligans in the other car... might work...
I've actually got a few on the force[s] back home...
sounds like they're getting serious about curbing speeding...but hey the autobahn is only a short distance away right?
if they say you were racing tell the officer you were trying to get away from the hooligans in the other car... might work...
#75
hey sorry to bring this thread up back from the dead, but my a coworker of mine just purchased a 2jz motor and is also gonna put it in a 4 runner. if you would so kindly write out the things i would need to do to make the 2jz fit and make it work. thanks
also he has a automatic tranny and he wants to keep it would you know how that would work??
also he has a automatic tranny and he wants to keep it would you know how that would work??
#76
Sorry but I simply do not have the time to work it all out on paper. I think most steps are mentioned in this post. If you want certain details or pics, just ask.
As for the auto; I do not have one so I cannot give first hand experience. And I do not know anything about autos.
I did remove all that wiring from my engine loom (mine was an auto obviously) and she runs just fine with all connections to the ECU cut.. The auto-CU is incorporated in the engine ECU (at least lots of it) and I have no clue if that is compatible with a 4R autotrans. Do a search and find if the trans share equal type numbers.
As for the auto; I do not have one so I cannot give first hand experience. And I do not know anything about autos.
I did remove all that wiring from my engine loom (mine was an auto obviously) and she runs just fine with all connections to the ECU cut.. The auto-CU is incorporated in the engine ECU (at least lots of it) and I have no clue if that is compatible with a 4R autotrans. Do a search and find if the trans share equal type numbers.
#78
damn man that looks like ALOT of work but...all i cna say is wow man your an insperation. i have a few people telling me i should be doing the same thing you are right now. i dont even think i could attempt to do it. i think i stick with the 22re, but again man wow im at a loss for words i will deffanently keep an eye on this for future posts, thanks for the insperation.. oh and how do you like it? also how well do you think that setup would work at high RPM in mudd? talk to you later man
Last edited by YoterUp; Sep 13, 2007 at 07:38 PM.
#79
Thanks. How I like it? What do you think? Offcourse I like it.
Incredibly smooth engine, not a single problem since the swap. Cause it was a NA engine it has plenty of torque from a 1000 rpm and up. I took it out for some offroad testing and it all works out just fine for me.
When stopped at steep hills I do need to rev it a litttle to get going or she stalls like any other gasser. Totally different experience for me since I've been a diesel driver for over a decade.
But than again, as soon as the turbo kicks in just before a steep hill you get launched
That's something the diesel never did
Incredibly smooth engine, not a single problem since the swap. Cause it was a NA engine it has plenty of torque from a 1000 rpm and up. I took it out for some offroad testing and it all works out just fine for me.
When stopped at steep hills I do need to rev it a litttle to get going or she stalls like any other gasser. Totally different experience for me since I've been a diesel driver for over a decade.
But than again, as soon as the turbo kicks in just before a steep hill you get launched
That's something the diesel never did




