2JZ-GE + turbo swap
#25
Made the exhaust today. I used 3" pipe for the downpipe and 2.75" for the rest.
I put the sensors on the side of the elbow and an extra flange (with a plug for now) for a pyrometer.

Side shot mounted:

About everything is hooked up. I rewired the alternator and some small stuff.
All fluids are in so except for the intercooler, piping, AFM etc i'm getting it done.
front shot:

ll try to get another day off on wednesday to finish it finally (I hope:cry: )
I put the sensors on the side of the elbow and an extra flange (with a plug for now) for a pyrometer.

Side shot mounted:

About everything is hooked up. I rewired the alternator and some small stuff.
All fluids are in so except for the intercooler, piping, AFM etc i'm getting it done.
front shot:

ll try to get another day off on wednesday to finish it finally (I hope:cry: )
#26
I'm running stock pistons and headgasket. So stock compression. I intend to run it at lower boost until she's got more fuel.
Later I may swap in a thicker headgasket with new adjustable cam gears. First i wanna see how everything works out.
If I'm done (hopefully tomorrow) I can make a vid or soundclip. Just don not know how to post it.
Back to the swap. Glad this week is over.
I couldn't do anything , buy gather parts like pipes, bends, tubing etc.
I made the intercoolerpiping and intake piping plus a few adapters.
The intercooler is mounted where the winch used to be. Simply no room for something else.
The intake, sensor and piping are made of 3" pipe. The piping for the intercooler is 2" (like the stoock 7M-GTE). I couldn't get what i needed in a larger diameter, so I'll replace those later.
Here's how the front end now looks:

As you can see there's not much room left, especially when I switch to a larger intercooler and 2.5" or 3" pipe.

The hoses on the turbo are high temp silicone Greddy hoses so they should hold.
There's no room left for the windscreenwasher either. I'm doing nothing about that for now.

I'm fully done mechanically (except for a bracket for the air filterbox) and now only have to hook the electrics up.
I've started but it looks like I will have to replace some of the stock wiring with thicker gauge wire.
The 2JZ ECU uses twices the power as the 3VZE so i'm upgrading stuff tomorrow.
Let you know how it turns out tomorrow.
Later I may swap in a thicker headgasket with new adjustable cam gears. First i wanna see how everything works out.
If I'm done (hopefully tomorrow) I can make a vid or soundclip. Just don not know how to post it.
Back to the swap. Glad this week is over.
I couldn't do anything , buy gather parts like pipes, bends, tubing etc.
I made the intercoolerpiping and intake piping plus a few adapters.
The intercooler is mounted where the winch used to be. Simply no room for something else.
The intake, sensor and piping are made of 3" pipe. The piping for the intercooler is 2" (like the stoock 7M-GTE). I couldn't get what i needed in a larger diameter, so I'll replace those later.
Here's how the front end now looks:

As you can see there's not much room left, especially when I switch to a larger intercooler and 2.5" or 3" pipe.

The hoses on the turbo are high temp silicone Greddy hoses so they should hold.
There's no room left for the windscreenwasher either. I'm doing nothing about that for now.

I'm fully done mechanically (except for a bracket for the air filterbox) and now only have to hook the electrics up.
I've started but it looks like I will have to replace some of the stock wiring with thicker gauge wire.
The 2JZ ECU uses twices the power as the 3VZE so i'm upgrading stuff tomorrow.
Let you know how it turns out tomorrow.
#27
It's alive !Hooked up the wiring but nothing, she did not start. After looking and checking, not to forget the fuel oder, I checked to see if I had a spark.
No, I didn't.
So I checked the igniter and decided to swap it with the spare one. After I unbolted everything I found that the ingniter plug wasn't in fully.
Plugged it in, assembled everything and presto: vrooom...
She idled at 2000, but as soon as I touched the thottle a bit and let go she started to idle pulsating from 2000-3000 revs.
What could cause that? Vacuum problem, electric, leek in intercooling tubing?
It's definately not the throttle linkage or cable.
It's getting late now and I'll call it a day. I'll look into this tomorrow.
BTW it has a very impressive sound compared to my 7M. The 2JZ runs much smoother, sounds a bit like a BMW.
#31
Thanks guys.
Yesterday I adjusted the TPS, ignition, several adjusting screws, switched vacuum lines on all valves etc. Checked if the throttle valve was fully closed at idle and so on.
Still nothing. So checked the fault codes from the ECU.
Found 1 problem: code 14; igniter IGf signal missing.
Replaced igniter; fault code gone but idle problem maintaining.
Called around and asked and got the tip to check the idle servo.
Oops, no 12V on servo, forgot to hook up 1 positive wire from the engine wiring loom.
Next try (last night): bingo ! She runs at 1000 rpms and hot at 550.
Still some adjusting to do but ready for a testdrive!
And boy did I make a testdrive. The engine runs unbelievably smooth compared to my old 7M. I can see she idles, but can't hear her running.
All instruments work, except for oil pressure since the 2Jz doesn't have a sensor for it.
The turbo is working fine. The engine is a lot stronger on its own, but as soon as the turbo boost starts its unbebievable. Drove the runner to the office today and made some sprints as soon as I had confidence everything was working like clockwork. WOW. Hit 60 mph in a few seconds in third gear at 5500-6000 rpms (if I recall correctly). First time one of my yota's hurls my ass forward so fast it actually pushes me back in the seat.
So far its everything I wanted, can't wait till the fuel problem is fixed.
Still have to measure boost level too before I blow something up.
What amazes me the most is that the entire setup with the turbo is so quiet, even at highway speeds. Even when the turbo is at full boost, which is longer than expected, the engine screams and revs, there's hardly any noise.
It feels like twice the power and half the noise of my old setup. Let's wait and see what the fuel consumption is.
As soon as she is really ready and tuned I'll make a vid or audioclip and (try) to post it here.
Yesterday I adjusted the TPS, ignition, several adjusting screws, switched vacuum lines on all valves etc. Checked if the throttle valve was fully closed at idle and so on.
Still nothing. So checked the fault codes from the ECU.
Found 1 problem: code 14; igniter IGf signal missing.
Replaced igniter; fault code gone but idle problem maintaining.
Called around and asked and got the tip to check the idle servo.
Oops, no 12V on servo, forgot to hook up 1 positive wire from the engine wiring loom.
Next try (last night): bingo ! She runs at 1000 rpms and hot at 550.
Still some adjusting to do but ready for a testdrive!
And boy did I make a testdrive. The engine runs unbelievably smooth compared to my old 7M. I can see she idles, but can't hear her running.
All instruments work, except for oil pressure since the 2Jz doesn't have a sensor for it.
The turbo is working fine. The engine is a lot stronger on its own, but as soon as the turbo boost starts its unbebievable. Drove the runner to the office today and made some sprints as soon as I had confidence everything was working like clockwork. WOW. Hit 60 mph in a few seconds in third gear at 5500-6000 rpms (if I recall correctly). First time one of my yota's hurls my ass forward so fast it actually pushes me back in the seat.
So far its everything I wanted, can't wait till the fuel problem is fixed.
Still have to measure boost level too before I blow something up.
What amazes me the most is that the entire setup with the turbo is so quiet, even at highway speeds. Even when the turbo is at full boost, which is longer than expected, the engine screams and revs, there's hardly any noise.
It feels like twice the power and half the noise of my old setup. Let's wait and see what the fuel consumption is.
As soon as she is really ready and tuned I'll make a vid or audioclip and (try) to post it here.
#33
update
Actually there is.
I've been very busy and did not have a lot of free time to solve the idle problems the engine suffered from.
In the meantime I found that the engine used a slight amount of coolant. Tried a lot of stuff but looked like a blown headgasket, probably due to a sticking EGR valve before the swap. That's probably why they swapped another engine and this one was 'in perfect working order'.
Anyhow, this is what I found:
Look at the valves from the last cylinder.

Used red penetrant paint and the white powdersolution to find any cracks. None.

So, some cleaning and a new gasket:

Evertything checked and she still runs like a champ but refuses to idle correctly.
I must have checked everything five times now
and gave up this weekend and opende the throttle valve a tad so she would be drivable for the wife.
Than it struck me, even disconnecting some vacuum lines didn't matter so there must be another leak somewere. I allready searched for days for this before, used 2 cans of startpilot in the proces so I had no idea where to start.
I was repairing a celica in the mean time too and I noticed something missing from the 4R. The charcoal canister.
I blocked that off years ago and completely forgot about it. I got to stop smoking the local stuff when working on projects.
We'll, she's done now. Runs even smoother when shifting and a perfect idle which drops to 500 when idling for long periods. No shaking or vibrations, just perfect.
I made this just now inbetween rainshowers: (you can see the red breather filter were the charcoal canister was)

Now I can concentrate on getting everything perfect, like hoses, new thicker exhaust, 3" intercooler piping. I also ordered a new large 3" intercooler which will arrive in 2 weeks or so. After that I can work on the MAF and fit bigger injectors and open up the turbo. It is only working at a few psi now. Here's a pic with the temp charcoal canister from the celica.

I bought an airscoop to help keep the engine bay cool. That will mean cutting up my hood anytime soon, plus I 2 new fenders so a partial painjob is also at hand.
I'll try to make a vid this weekend if the weather clears up.
I've been very busy and did not have a lot of free time to solve the idle problems the engine suffered from.
In the meantime I found that the engine used a slight amount of coolant. Tried a lot of stuff but looked like a blown headgasket, probably due to a sticking EGR valve before the swap. That's probably why they swapped another engine and this one was 'in perfect working order'.
Anyhow, this is what I found:
Look at the valves from the last cylinder.

Used red penetrant paint and the white powdersolution to find any cracks. None.

So, some cleaning and a new gasket:

Evertything checked and she still runs like a champ but refuses to idle correctly.
I must have checked everything five times now
and gave up this weekend and opende the throttle valve a tad so she would be drivable for the wife.Than it struck me, even disconnecting some vacuum lines didn't matter so there must be another leak somewere. I allready searched for days for this before, used 2 cans of startpilot in the proces so I had no idea where to start.
I was repairing a celica in the mean time too and I noticed something missing from the 4R. The charcoal canister.
I blocked that off years ago and completely forgot about it. I got to stop smoking the local stuff when working on projects.
We'll, she's done now. Runs even smoother when shifting and a perfect idle which drops to 500 when idling for long periods. No shaking or vibrations, just perfect.
I made this just now inbetween rainshowers: (you can see the red breather filter were the charcoal canister was)

Now I can concentrate on getting everything perfect, like hoses, new thicker exhaust, 3" intercooler piping. I also ordered a new large 3" intercooler which will arrive in 2 weeks or so. After that I can work on the MAF and fit bigger injectors and open up the turbo. It is only working at a few psi now. Here's a pic with the temp charcoal canister from the celica.

I bought an airscoop to help keep the engine bay cool. That will mean cutting up my hood anytime soon, plus I 2 new fenders so a partial painjob is also at hand.
I'll try to make a vid this weekend if the weather clears up.
#34
If the fenders are going to be replaced anyway you could probably come up with a way to mount the windshield washer reservoir behind the fender with a funnel/hose type thing into the engine bay maybe coming out around the clutch master cylinder there is a sort of space there as I recall.
Geat write up too I just found it...
Geat write up too I just found it...
#35
Thanks but I'm leaving it were it is (see the last pic at the right), for now at least. Only one screw, disconnect the hoses and it's out of the way. These pumps work much better than the stock ones too.
I just had a visit from guys who's gone do the paint job. He advised me on how to attach the hoodscoop so now I'm going to do it. I will also make me a snorkel in the process. Don't want to run a 3 1/2" holesaw in a new and painted fender.
The scoop I bought turned out to be a perfect shape, but too low, so not enough air. I'm gone use it as a mold to make a new higher one from polyester or carbon fiber. At least I' gone try.
I haven't had any cooling issues, probably due to the cold weather, but I suspect my BMW pusherfan will not be enough. There is way too little space for a normal electric puller fan.
What do you guys think on this; adding a shroud of some sort and mount one or 2 smaller fans to the side. The shroud would only cover a portion of the radiator, like 15-20% from the top or right side. They would suck in air from an angle but it probably still would work better than a pusher fan in front. I guess it will at least help the pusherfan.
I just had a visit from guys who's gone do the paint job. He advised me on how to attach the hoodscoop so now I'm going to do it. I will also make me a snorkel in the process. Don't want to run a 3 1/2" holesaw in a new and painted fender.
The scoop I bought turned out to be a perfect shape, but too low, so not enough air. I'm gone use it as a mold to make a new higher one from polyester or carbon fiber. At least I' gone try.
I haven't had any cooling issues, probably due to the cold weather, but I suspect my BMW pusherfan will not be enough. There is way too little space for a normal electric puller fan.
What do you guys think on this; adding a shroud of some sort and mount one or 2 smaller fans to the side. The shroud would only cover a portion of the radiator, like 15-20% from the top or right side. They would suck in air from an angle but it probably still would work better than a pusher fan in front. I guess it will at least help the pusherfan.
#37
I don't know about that... you could try a 'ram air' type scoop thing under the bumper [like a turbo-prop engine intake] you could even have some kind of spring loaded flap at the back for a water fording bypass... but then this would'nt be a forced air system...
You could just remove the radiator intirely and relocate it to the back roof of the runner... I remeber seeing pics years ago of a rock crawler cj2a that had an industrial 2 fan radiator mounted flat over the rear seat like that.
You could just remove the radiator intirely and relocate it to the back roof of the runner... I remeber seeing pics years ago of a rock crawler cj2a that had an industrial 2 fan radiator mounted flat over the rear seat like that.
#38
I like the idea of a roof mount. There are only 2 drawbacks, I barely fit into parking garages (which are often underground here) as is now, like 50% are allready a nono for me. Second is vandalism. Allready had a winch stolen. I tack welded the bolts myself and it still was gone in front of my bedroom window.
I guess a radiator with fans will disappear witin a few weeks.
But I definately see a benefit in longer coolant lines etc. Aluminum piping would definatly increase the cooling surface a lot.
Maybe it's better to move the intercooler on top off the engine with a slightly larger scoop and an electric fan. I would need a 2JZ-GTE intake manifold since my throttle valve is on top of the engine.
But this way the stock radiator would get more cooler air.
Mmmh Things to consider.
I guess a radiator with fans will disappear witin a few weeks.
But I definately see a benefit in longer coolant lines etc. Aluminum piping would definatly increase the cooling surface a lot.
Maybe it's better to move the intercooler on top off the engine with a slightly larger scoop and an electric fan. I would need a 2JZ-GTE intake manifold since my throttle valve is on top of the engine.
But this way the stock radiator would get more cooler air.
Mmmh Things to consider.
#39
Is there that much of a problem with vandals in NL?
Makes me ashamed of my fellow countrymen...
as to the clearance issue just mod you suspension to air ride and then air down to get in the garages...
as an added benefit you would get to go on cruise nights with the lowrider set
Makes me ashamed of my fellow countrymen...
as to the clearance issue just mod you suspension to air ride and then air down to get in the garages...
as an added benefit you would get to go on cruise nights with the lowrider set
#40
Vandalism is a serious problem, theft maybe more. Allready heard from friends that people were interested in the 4R. That's why I have a 600$ alarm system, wheel locks, a hidden lCD screen etc. Lucky thing is that it's not your typical commutor, so not many people would have use for it.




