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22RE stumbling worst now...

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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 04:27 PM
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22RE stumbling worst now...

ok to start..
good: cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel pump.
also. new water pump
did head job a year ago.
timing was at 5* advance
intake valves are specd, exhaust too but have one noisy one..

before it would just randomly stumble whenever you put load on it..

now after cleaning the throttle body on sat.. it ran amazing on the drive home.
the next day back to crap but even worst.. now a couple days later its bad.
sitting at a stop and giving it throttle it bogs out and wants to die.
driving along and giving it throttle it stumbles hard like fuel being cut out..

clues..

when i cleaned tb it seemed like the egr passage at front of intake was blocked.. i scraped a ton of black crap out.. water does flow through iacv. all passages on tb are open and clean now.

if i pull the plug on the TPS it will not run.
if i pull the plug on the o2 sensor it will not start

please help me.. im ready to drive it off a cliff
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 05:11 PM
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Fuel filter?
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 05:43 PM
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Was changed when fuel pump was put it.
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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Check for codes, but you probably set some by disconnecting the sensors. Check for restricted exhaust with a vacuum gauge hooked to intake vacuum, check the flapper valve on the air flow meter is not sticky, compression OK? Check the TPS with a multimeter, should be smooth with no jumps. Fuel pressure test may still be needed.
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 07:32 PM
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Afm is good.
Compression should be 100% but ill check it when i can. Head was decked when i did the head job. No ticking or pinging or anything.

When i did pull the o2 after i plugged it back in there was lotsa black smoke coming out..

im wondering if a bad o2 could be causing all the grief?
How fast does the computer calculate the 02 readings?

Sometimes the enginge light comes on and goes off seconds later or it just faintly flashes..
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 08:09 PM
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You shouldn't disconnect ECM sensors with the engine running, all that black smoke was the ECM going full rich which probably coated the O2 sensor and started plugging the cat, not to mention the voltage spikes to the ECM. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the codes, reconnect, and test drive if you can until the engine light comes on, then check which codes are set.
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 08:44 PM
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I didnt unplug while running.. unplugged then tried and failed to start.

And i did disconnect batt. So only code should be whats wrong currently..
how do i check codes? I seen diagnostic port under hood.. is there an obd port somewhere?

Doing theory in my head..
if my egr passage was plugged and i unplugged it while cleaning and now my problem got worst..
then sensors affected after intake / egr are only o2..
Right?
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 04:46 PM
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Well i checked.. and computer isnt holding any codes.. i turn the key and engine light just flashed once quickly..
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 06:40 PM
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Just saw your other post about the missing disconnected ground strap.
It's a good idea to go through and clean ALL your main power and ground connections.
Clean both the connector and the area it's getting bolted to with a wire brush or some #0000 steel wool, then smear some dielectric grease on it to help keep corrosion away.

Sometimes that's all it takes to make a vehicle run, start, and charge better.

22re ground wire locations - the guide!!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/

Last edited by Odin; Jan 20, 2015 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 09:13 PM
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Thank you. And trust me i know good grounds.. im a welder.
Ive added a couple extra larger grounds to the system already.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 10:36 PM
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Nice. For a while there it seemed like we were getting a lot of posts that involved corroded and missing grounds.
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 11:32 AM
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I just discovered the head ground is connected to the valve cover :/
gunna fix that after work.

Hopefully with these grounds done properly itll fix it.. if not at least hold a code in the computer..
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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Well grounds all hooked up. No difference
confirmed with voltmeter. Grounds are good.

Last edited by cammac.cmm; Jan 21, 2015 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cammac.cmm
Well i checked.. and computer isnt holding any codes.. i turn the key and engine light just flashed once quickly..
Stupid question but you did check them the way described in this link right?
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 08:01 PM
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Got it now. It flashed twice in about two seconds.
So code 2.. or 21? Afm or temp sense.. :/

Last edited by cammac.cmm; Jan 21, 2015 at 08:17 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 08:35 PM
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Ahh, I thought your description sounded off.

If it flashed about two times per second, WITH NO PAUSES, then there are no stored codes.

However if you've had the battery disconnected working on ground wires and such you probably cleared the stored codes. Just drive it again for a while then recheck the codes. Then the hunt begins.

Last edited by Odin; Jan 21, 2015 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 04:07 PM
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Light went on twice today. I check codes and it goes...

Flashes twice a second.. so i count 1,2 and it flashes on one goes out flashes on two, goes out, 3 seconds later flashes again 1 off 2. Then off for about 7 seconds then repeats on1,off,on2,off,345,on6,off,on7
if that makes sense..

also it does not stumble while cold. Just when at op temp..
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 04:57 PM
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Sounds like code 12.
Making a phone video of the flashing and posting it would clear up any confusion.

I might have missed it, what year is it?

Last edited by Odin; Jan 22, 2015 at 05:01 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 06:00 PM
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Will do tomorrow. Year is 94
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 01:14 PM
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94 22re: http://youtu.be/yrJKTd0mh80
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