22RE no spark
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22RE no spark
My 87 PU suddenly died on me 2000 miles from home. Not getting a spark. Replaced the igniter and coil, no help. The igniter is getting power, but there's no juice coming from the coil to the distributor. (checked with test light). The distributor seems ok and I tested the 2 wires coming from it (yes, the distributor turns while cranking engine). I'm pretty stumped on this one and I'm a long way from home with limited tools....any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
#2
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Check those two wires from the dizzy for burn marks or see if they melted together inside the grey sheath or w-e you call it. May be to close to header and that could have melted them together
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I am going thru similar problems, but check your Pickup sensor is a suggestion I have. I will post a link of some of the steps I have gone thru so far on mine as well.
Some of what I have gone thru so far...Page 13 has some info as well.
Link>>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52118270
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You should have between 140-180 Ohms on the Pickup Coil. I want to have a picture for others if the question comes up. Mine was 158. I just noticed that I had my meter set to 2000, I should of set it to the 200 mark. Last time I checked it, I had the meter set to 200 and my reading was 160. It is still good, but some information for someone who may not understand a multimeter. If you know your range of Ohms, set it to the closest setting that you are expecting. If I was at 201 Ohms, I should then use the 2000 setting. (Where the dot is at is 2000. The 20k equals 20,000. k means 1000, 200k means 200,000)
Some of what I have gone thru so far...Page 13 has some info as well.
Link>>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52118270
Copied...
You should have between 140-180 Ohms on the Pickup Coil. I want to have a picture for others if the question comes up. Mine was 158. I just noticed that I had my meter set to 2000, I should of set it to the 200 mark. Last time I checked it, I had the meter set to 200 and my reading was 160. It is still good, but some information for someone who may not understand a multimeter. If you know your range of Ohms, set it to the closest setting that you are expecting. If I was at 201 Ohms, I should then use the 2000 setting. (Where the dot is at is 2000. The 20k equals 20,000. k means 1000, 200k means 200,000)
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Thanks everybody! On top of the igniter & coil, I ended up swapping out the dizzy with no luck. Frustrated and a long way from home, I took it to a mechanic. He tells me it needs a fuel pump. Can anybody explain how a faulty fuel pump can cause no spark?? I've never heard of this.
#7
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That's because it doesn't. A lot of people throw parts at a vehicle until it runs again, regardless of whether they know that's the fix or not. The shop is just assuming the fuel pump is a cure-all.
That is, unless you're not getting fuel either.
That is, unless you're not getting fuel either.
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#8
NO one can, except that mechanic
AMEN, Gamefreakgc. And it remains a mystery what really fixed the problem, then when it comes back owner would be chasing tails again.
Agree. IF you have good fuel pressure, either the mechanic does not know what he's doing or he's trying to rip you off.
Don't use a test light. use a multi-meter. Next to our senses, that's the best and least expensive troubleshooting tool.
Did you test the pick like Terry suggests above?^^^
The shop is just assuming the fuel pump is a cure-all. That is, unless you're not getting fuel either.
Don't use a test light. use a multi-meter. Next to our senses, that's the best and least expensive troubleshooting tool.
Did you test the pick like Terry suggests above?^^^
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-31-2013 at 08:10 PM.
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Dizzy?
Thanks everybody! On top of the igniter & coil, I ended up swapping out the dizzy with no luck. Frustrated and a long way from home, I took it to a mechanic. He tells me it needs a fuel pump. Can anybody explain how a faulty fuel pump can cause no spark?? I've never heard of this.
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