Philbert

iTrader: (2)

One more thing....I think I MAY want to adjust the IACV to let a LITTLE more air in at cold idle.

There is a nut on the back of the valve that is TINY - probably something like a 6mm nut - but I think because where it is, I can't get a socket on it - any tips on adjusting that sucker while it's INSTALLED? I really don't want to pull it off again.

thook

I've never adjusted mine....even when I replaced the original. So, I'm not sure what to tell you on that. I will say if the idle spec is 800/50rpm when warm, then you're idle is low overall. In which case, I'd adjust the throttle body idle valve instead.

gennro

I'm going to order one of these aux air control valves from JC whitney and see if this will be a lower cost replacement for the toyota valve.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/injection-a...14371y1979g2j1

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Interesting. Says it won't fit my 87 4runner when I select my vehicle. Also, you're in an 84, which is carbed, right? This only applies to EFI I believe.

gennro

Heh, Philbert, I'm running a 85 to 95 22RE w/a standalone fuel injection system, but still use the stock aux air valve for idle up during cold starts and mine kinda works but not like it it suppose to. So I am going to replace it with the link I posted above.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Matthew - I've adjusted the TB screw a few times since the job, to try and dial it in. I think it's still "within spec" with the cold start and warm, but I think making the valve's hole a LITTLE bigger would allow me a higher cold idle (I can always adjust the "hot" idle down a bit with the TB screw. I'll take a look at the old one tonight and see if I can shoehorn a small socket on there and turn by hand

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Guess I could have read your signature, sorry about that!

Sounds like a cool setup. BTW, someone was selling a few used 22RE IAVC's when I posted up about looking for one last week...but I'd already bought one on CL (for more $$) so I couldn't partake....if you want OEM (used), let me know and I'll dig up the thread.

thook

Well, earlier you said your engine would fall to 750rpm idle once warm. IIRC, that would be the correct idle speed for an A/T equipped vehicle.....around 850 is for an M/T. So, again, that points to the idle bypass adjustment.

What I don't think you understand is that the AAV only effects the cold idle....if it's working properly. So, if you did adjust the AAV for higher cold idle, it shouldn't affect your "hot" idle at all. However, following your logic, adjusting the idle bypass (TB screw) to bring the "hot" idle down is going to effect the cold idle, too. You'd kinda be shooting yourself in the foot, there. The AAV is supplementary air supply to the manifold above what the idle bypass already supplies. Make sense?

Get the curb idle (ie, warm idle) set properly first. Then, if you need a higher cold idle, mess with the AAV adjustment.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I follow, Matthew.

I guess what I need to do is adjust the TB bypass screw when HOT - to 850 (not 750) since it's a 5 speed.

THEN, later, when cold, mess around with the IACV/AAV screw to make it more "open" and idle a little higher.

Like you said, if working, the IACV/AAV is fully closed when warm, so it plays no role in the idle once warm.

thook

That's what I'd do.

critter_catcher74

Some great ideas to check here, I'm still having issues with surging after replacing IACV and TPS. I guess I will check idle speed (but no tach on my truck) maybe it's just set too high and the ECU it cutting the fuel.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Critter,

it sounds to me like you need to adjust your hot I'll with the throttle body adjustment screw.

I'm not sure on how to adjust to 800 rpm tachometer that might be tough....

I have a recent issue with mine where my to, or what actually jump up or down about 500 p.m. While I'm driving or idoling it only happens for radically but it's kind of annoying and I'm not sure if I'm exactly at eight hundred dollars to be but the truck runs really good right now and it sounds like it I will in correctly from my ear

DustyMojave

I know it's been quite a while since Philbert's post, but I just ran across this thread again and wanted to acknowledge that Philbert had it right and I had it wrong.

I was relating the auxiliary air valve to the choke butterfly in a carb, which reduces the overall air flow through the carb when cold, but should have been relating it to the fast idle cam that holds the throttle butterfly more open to allow more air to flow at idle when cold.

I have learned...

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

thanks Richard for the follow up.

I was able to figure out my idle issues after a while.... it turned out that the bimetal piece in my idle air control valve was not working anymore. I replaced it with a used one off of Craigslist and now the system seems to work as it should.

I just looked back at the response that I wrote to critter a little while ago on this thread and realized it looks like I'm absolutely hammered when I wrote it lol....it was just that I was using my phone to reply and had several autocomplete errors I did not catch sorry about that!!

osv

glad to hear that you got it working.

the next time it fails, do the later model tb/plenum swap, which will get rid of the junk iacv completely.

it will pass california smog, i've done it.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, OSV - I passed smog last week finally - I actually failed the visual the week prior and had to reverse my intake/battery swap and cone air filter....took about an hour to swap. PITA!

What years 22RE is the later model TB/plenum from, just so I know?

osv

smog sucks, for sure!

i can't remember the years, trying googling "22re plenum swap", or similar... there is a lot of info in this forum as well.

i was able to re-use my old throttle cable, just use a die grinder to whack off maybe 1/16" or so, and drilled out a pep boys barrel nut... got a pack of 'em from the "help" section at pb.

Andrew Ginn

Got a question for you guys. I have a 97 tacoma with a 3.4L v6. It turns over but doesn't catch for about 5 seconds then it starts. So it has a little bit of trouble starting. But when i pop it into first and put a load on the engine it cuts down and sounds like its missing a beat. Gets better when i get into higher rpms. Might i add that could possibly be the idle control valve? Get carbon and such in there. Or could it be the injectors? Lets hear your thoughts.