22re Code 5 - help!
Mar 29, 2021 | 12:12 PM
#1
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22re Code 5 - help!
Hi everyone,
I have an early 22RE (1985) with a code 5. This 22RE has an EGR delete and runs good. The CEL just drives me nuts.
Last year, the head went out so I replaced the following.
5 Open or shorted Oxygen Sensor (O2) circuit
- Lean or rich indication (with injectors full rich or full lean)
- Defective O2 sensor
- Defective ECU
How can I further debug O2 sensor? I assume ECU is OK and would be my last option before crossing off everything else.
Any thoughts on other components which can cause the system to run rich or lean?
I have an early 22RE (1985) with a code 5. This 22RE has an EGR delete and runs good. The CEL just drives me nuts.
Last year, the head went out so I replaced the following.
- New stage 2 performance head from 22reperformance
- timing chain, cover, oil pump, water pump.
- New (refurb) injectors from 22reperformance
- New O2 denso sensor (1 wire)
- Relatively new fuel pump w/new gas filter
- TPS sensor calibrated and timing set
5 Open or shorted Oxygen Sensor (O2) circuit
- Lean or rich indication (with injectors full rich or full lean)
- Defective O2 sensor
- Defective ECU
How can I further debug O2 sensor? I assume ECU is OK and would be my last option before crossing off everything else.
Any thoughts on other components which can cause the system to run rich or lean?
Mar 30, 2021 | 04:25 AM
#2
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From: Oklahoma
I believe the CEL is more sensitive and prone to be a lean condition.
that has been my experience anyway.
that belief is from playing with my AFM and TPS settings. Usually a couple of clicks on the AFM got rid of the CEL.
mine at different times in different 22ret and 22re has come on driving, then goes off when you let off the accelerator.
Making it a little richer made the CEL go away...
I'm not saying a rich situation won't trigger the CEL but, it never has for me.
that has been my experience anyway.
that belief is from playing with my AFM and TPS settings. Usually a couple of clicks on the AFM got rid of the CEL.
mine at different times in different 22ret and 22re has come on driving, then goes off when you let off the accelerator.
Making it a little richer made the CEL go away...
I'm not saying a rich situation won't trigger the CEL but, it never has for me.
Last edited by 87-4runner; Mar 30, 2021 at 04:33 AM.
Mar 30, 2021 | 05:25 PM
#4
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From: Southern Arizona
Introducing exhaust gasses into the intake air stream should richen the effective mixture some,
that effect being moderated by the mixture control action of the o2 sensor at cruising speeds in closed loop.
The function of EGR is to lower the peak combustion temps at cruise; so as to lower oxide of nitrogen emissions.
After all this, deleting EGR may lean the burn at cruising speed some, contributing to higher NOX emissions, and just maybe lighting that pesky check engine light.
that effect being moderated by the mixture control action of the o2 sensor at cruising speeds in closed loop.
The function of EGR is to lower the peak combustion temps at cruise; so as to lower oxide of nitrogen emissions.
After all this, deleting EGR may lean the burn at cruising speed some, contributing to higher NOX emissions, and just maybe lighting that pesky check engine light.
Mar 30, 2021 | 08:26 PM
#5
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Introducing exhaust gasses into the intake air stream should richen the effective mixture some,
that effect being moderated by the mixture control action of the o2 sensor at cruising speeds in closed loop.
The function of EGR is to lower the peak combustion temps at cruise; so as to lower oxide of nitrogen emissions.
After all this, deleting EGR may lean the burn at cruising speed some, contributing to higher NOX emissions, and just maybe lighting that pesky check engine light.
that effect being moderated by the mixture control action of the o2 sensor at cruising speeds in closed loop.
The function of EGR is to lower the peak combustion temps at cruise; so as to lower oxide of nitrogen emissions.
After all this, deleting EGR may lean the burn at cruising speed some, contributing to higher NOX emissions, and just maybe lighting that pesky check engine light.
The previous owner removed the EGR and told me the CEL was due to it. I've never done a delete on a 22re so learning as I go. I'll attempt to adjust the AFM over the weekend.
Mar 31, 2021 | 07:05 AM
#6
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From: Oklahoma
Make sure to MARK the original position so you'll have a reference point and can go back to the original setting.
hold the "wheel" with your finger so it won't move then take a small screw driver and lift the wire keeper that is in the notch of the wheel and you can turn the wheel.
(copied and paste)
Cut the seal holding the black plastic lid in place. Gently pry the lid from the housing. To adjust, first mark the original location of the hold-down clamp on the gear wheel so you can return to stock setting if necessary. Loosen the clamp screw(this isn't necessary) and rotate the gear wheel a few teeth as necessary. Clockwise leans the mixture, counter-clockwise richens the mixture. After adjustment, replace the top plastic lid (see Warnings below).
WARNING #1 - Use caution when cutting the top lid seal with a hobby knife so that plastic lid is not cut or damaged.
WARNING #2 - DO NOT let spring loaded gear wheel unwind, you will not be able to find stock setting/home base.
WARNING #3 - Ensure you establish a good seal when replacing top lid, moisture can destroy the sensor electronics.
WARNING #4 - DO NOT use an adhesive which creates a gas or fumes when drying, fumes will coat and destroy the sensor electronics – you’ve been warned!
hold the "wheel" with your finger so it won't move then take a small screw driver and lift the wire keeper that is in the notch of the wheel and you can turn the wheel.
(copied and paste)
Cut the seal holding the black plastic lid in place. Gently pry the lid from the housing. To adjust, first mark the original location of the hold-down clamp on the gear wheel so you can return to stock setting if necessary. Loosen the clamp screw(this isn't necessary) and rotate the gear wheel a few teeth as necessary. Clockwise leans the mixture, counter-clockwise richens the mixture. After adjustment, replace the top plastic lid (see Warnings below).
WARNING #1 - Use caution when cutting the top lid seal with a hobby knife so that plastic lid is not cut or damaged.
WARNING #2 - DO NOT let spring loaded gear wheel unwind, you will not be able to find stock setting/home base.
WARNING #3 - Ensure you establish a good seal when replacing top lid, moisture can destroy the sensor electronics.
WARNING #4 - DO NOT use an adhesive which creates a gas or fumes when drying, fumes will coat and destroy the sensor electronics – you’ve been warned!
Last edited by 87-4runner; Mar 31, 2021 at 07:10 AM.
Mar 31, 2021 | 07:16 AM
#7
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Joined: Aug 2018
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Make sure to MARK the original position so you'll have a reference point and can go back to the original setting.
hold the "wheel" with your finger so it won't move then take a small screw driver and lift the wire keeper that is in the notch of the wheel and you can turn the wheel.
(copied and paste)
Cut the seal holding the black plastic lid in place. Gently pry the lid from the housing. To adjust, first mark the original location of the hold-down clamp on the gear wheel so you can return to stock setting if necessary. Loosen the clamp screw(this isn't necessary) and rotate the gear wheel a few teeth as necessary. Clockwise leans the mixture, counter-clockwise richens the mixture. After adjustment, replace the top plastic lid (see Warnings below).
WARNING #1 - Use caution when cutting the top lid seal with a hobby knife so that plastic lid is not cut or damaged.
WARNING #2 - DO NOT let spring loaded gear wheel unwind, you will not be able to find stock setting/home base.
WARNING #3 - Ensure you establish a good seal when replacing top lid, moisture can destroy the sensor electronics.
WARNING #4 - DO NOT use an adhesive which creates a gas or fumes when drying, fumes will coat and destroy the sensor electronics – you’ve been warned!
hold the "wheel" with your finger so it won't move then take a small screw driver and lift the wire keeper that is in the notch of the wheel and you can turn the wheel.
(copied and paste)
Cut the seal holding the black plastic lid in place. Gently pry the lid from the housing. To adjust, first mark the original location of the hold-down clamp on the gear wheel so you can return to stock setting if necessary. Loosen the clamp screw(this isn't necessary) and rotate the gear wheel a few teeth as necessary. Clockwise leans the mixture, counter-clockwise richens the mixture. After adjustment, replace the top plastic lid (see Warnings below).
WARNING #1 - Use caution when cutting the top lid seal with a hobby knife so that plastic lid is not cut or damaged.
WARNING #2 - DO NOT let spring loaded gear wheel unwind, you will not be able to find stock setting/home base.
WARNING #3 - Ensure you establish a good seal when replacing top lid, moisture can destroy the sensor electronics.
WARNING #4 - DO NOT use an adhesive which creates a gas or fumes when drying, fumes will coat and destroy the sensor electronics – you’ve been warned!
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Apr 4, 2021 | 10:21 PM
#8
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Gave it a try and no luck.
I popped the afm open, marked origin and enriched 2, 3, 5 clicks. Stil came back. While on richer side, I cleared codes and reran. Got code 2 and code 5. I sealed it back up with electronic grade silicone.
Now wondering if AFM is good. Going to try and test but I've read regular digital meters are useless when testing afm.
Anyone know if there are any good AFMs for sale? I. E. Aftermarket Cardone, rockauto, etc.
I popped the afm open, marked origin and enriched 2, 3, 5 clicks. Stil came back. While on richer side, I cleared codes and reran. Got code 2 and code 5. I sealed it back up with electronic grade silicone.
Now wondering if AFM is good. Going to try and test but I've read regular digital meters are useless when testing afm.
Anyone know if there are any good AFMs for sale? I. E. Aftermarket Cardone, rockauto, etc.
Apr 8, 2021 | 06:14 PM
#9
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Sigh... Got a used MAF from a guy who tested beforehand and didn't hace CEL. Plugged it into mine. 5 min later CEL popped back on. 
code 2 and code 5.
I'm starting to run out of ideas. Next I guess I can try and see if wiring from o2 sensor and MAF are good to the ECU. Any other ideas?
code 2 and code 5.
I'm starting to run out of ideas. Next I guess I can try and see if wiring from o2 sensor and MAF are good to the ECU. Any other ideas?
Jul 12, 2023 | 12:50 AM
#14
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From: Vancouver Island
Dec 26, 2023 | 03:00 PM
#17
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Might be a long shot but if you extended the wire for the o2 sensor make sure you spliced the wire for the original and did not confuse the wire shielding for the actual o2 sensor wire. Rechecked mine after I did the LCE header swap. Code 5 hasn’t popped up for me yet.
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