My clutch started slipping so I am replacing it with a cheapo from Advance Auto and read on here that the rear main is not a big job so I'm going to do that while I am down there. I started some disassembly but there are at least 2 bolts (I think) that I am having a hard time getting to. The top 2 bolts seem to have some stuff in the way. I can't find a good blow up of the bell housing in the FSM to see exactly how many bolts are there. Can somebody who has done it before tell me exactly what needs to be removed, what angles to get to it, any special tools needed to remove those bolts. I think the rest will be simple enough. Also, my air compressor is flaky so do you think an electric impact (240 ft-lb) will be enough to remove flywheel bolts?

 

When I did mine I lowered the tranny/t-case a few inches so the engine would flex in the mounts. It gave me enough room to get to the top two bolts from the hole for the shifters using a long wobble extension.

 

I got them from underneath after lowering the trans a little. A single long extension would have worked better than a bunch of short ones, but I used what I had. I got an impact wobble joint from Harbor Freight.

My electric impact gun (220 ft/lbs ?) was able to remove the flywheel bolts.

 

Opinions differ whether to replace a rear main seal that isn't leaking. Marlin says leave it alone: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...n-seal-190313/

 

Thanks ya'll. That was fast. My rear main has been leaking for a while now but wasn't going in there just for that. It sounds like lowering transmission would be the easiest way with the tools I have, but how far down can it go without damaging something? Also, I read somewhere that you have to remove the starter. Is this true? FSM didn't seem to shed too much light on all of this.

 

The starter is bolted to the bellhousing so uh yeah, remove it. 2 bolts I believe and it's out.

 

Disconnect the battery, remove the two 14mm starter bolts, jack up the back of the trans and remove the cross member and lower it down. Make sure when you do this not th crush the heater core ends in the firewall. when you get ready to pull hte rear seal, have a catch pan just in case. Good luck to ya

 

wow ... um here are some photos. I did this a month ago.

I jacked the transmission up to the whole truck started to lift to tilt the motor forward and used a 17mm wrench to remove the 2 bellhousing bolts.

I also changed the rear main seal AND input shaft seal on tranny. Purchased a NAPA clutch kit with new pilot bearing and throwout bearings. Brand new flywheel also.

also replaced clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder.

when you re-torque the flywheel it's 14 ft-lb torque. use locktite.

need a 'press' to put on the throwout bearing and a our pilot bearings are unsually small, I had to dremel mine out. there are other methods where you can fill it up with grease or wet paper and press it out yourself.

Rear main seal is 5-6 obvious bolts and 2 from the bottom going through the oil pan.

I didn't drain my oil before hand and only leaked a tiny amount.

Here's my photos.

 

Thanks all. And Authority, you said you jacked your tranny up.....Im confused as to why you jack it up to get to the top bolts if the bolts are backed out toward the rear of the vehicle. This seems like it would make these bolts harder to get to.

 

Jacking it 'up' pivots the motor 'away' from the firewall. The bolts are not very long at all.

It gives you more room to fit your hand behind there, instead of using 10 ft long extension with impact guns.

Was just my preference and how I usually do things.

 

So you came in from the top of the motor? As opposed to laying under the vehicle? That would be awesome.

 

An example that would make more sense to some people.....

Imagine it like an L shape with the long end horizontal (it's laying down) l__ <--

It pivots on the joint which is where your engine mounts are.

When you lift up on the long end it pushes the short away and down.

 

Actually I just turned my wheels all the way to the right and reached in from the driver's side through the wheel well while sitting on my butt and used 1 hand to undo the bolts.

And wheels to the left while I was reaching through passenger side.

Use the 'box' end of a wrench, not enough room to use the open end on the bellhousing.

the trusses or ridges in the bellhousing are too small and close to the bolts.

 

Man I dunno how you guys went about it.. But I got my tranny out lastnight with a short straight extension (3inch) and a 17mm wrench... Just by unbolting the t/case mounts and sticking a jack under it...