Hey guys. My 1994 22re finally quit on me while driving the other day. When I tried restarting it the starter would turn over, but it sounded funny, almost like the engine wasn't turning over.

After towing it home and verifying the crankshaft was turning, I checked compression and got 0 on all cylinders. My initial thought was that the timing chain had broke. I pulled the valve cover and the timing chain is still on, but the driver's side guide is broken off. Also it looks like the timing chain may have jumped a couple teeth. I suspect this is how I am getting 0 compression on all cylinders?

So I know I am going to have to do a timing chain replacement. What are the chances I have a bent valve? I can still turn the engine by hand. Should I pull the head at the same time and inspect the valves or should I just put the timing chain on and retest for compression?

Any advice is appreciated

 

To do a timing chain properly you should pull the head. I know some will tell you it can be done without pulling it, but it's not a great shortcut.
Considering all the mechanical questions you have yet to answer I think doing it the FSM way is the only way. You'll be much happier with the final outcome. Besides, periodic replacement of a 22R# headgasket is common. So if you do it now you won't have to worry about it for the next several years. Be painful to shortcut a timing chain replacement, only to do a headgasket next year.

 

i’m also in favor of pulling the head when replacing the timing chain. it is far easier, and faster, than dropping the oil pan to do it. i did mine in my driveway last november, it took about 4 hours (i’ve done them before, so i knew the process).

 

Ok. Makes sense. Any explanation for the 0 compression? Is that caused by the cam timing being off? Below is a picture of where the dimple lines up when at TDC. I have read that it should be half a tooth to the left of TDC.

I am just trying to make sure I am marching in the right direction.

 

IIRC this is an interference engine, so if the cam has jumped time there is a chance of something "bad" having happened. True?

Also, if you're going to pull the head, what's the incremental labor to do a full rebuild at that point?

 

Any explanation for the 0 compression? Is that caused by the cam timing being off?
It very well could. All the more reason to pull the head and inspect for impact damage. It is an interference engine as Blueman pointed out. You'd want to look at the tops of the pistons for signs of impact, along with removing the valves and inspecting for damage/bent. If your chain had broken completely while the vehicle was moving at speed I'd say for sure the valves got hit hard enough to bend. But since it looks like it just jumped a tooth or two you very well may be ok. But you got to take it apart and check. You can borrow a valve spring compressor from most chain parts stores. Most will get a piece of cardboard and stick the valves through it to keep track of which valve goes where. This also works well with the bolts on the timing cover. It's crucial to keep track of those, especially the ones dealing with the oil pump. I traced the timing cover on a piece of cardboard, poking holes where the bolts went, then I put the corresponding bolt in each hole. There is a crazy number of different size and length bolts in that cover.

If your issue is limited to the chain OSK makes a decent kit. The one item you want either OEM or OSK is the chain tensioner. Regardless of what source you use for most of your parts don't buy a cheap tensioner. That will ruin all your hard work faster than anything.

 

Thanks for all the help. I checked clearance and all 4 exhaust valves were dead on but all 4 intake valves weren't even close, so it looks like bent valves is the culprit. I will get started removing the head next week. I'm sure I will be back with more questions along the way.

 

Got the head removed last night. Valves are indeed bent. Pistons all have a dent on one side shown below.




So I am trying to weigh my options.

I could rebuild the head, replace timing chain, and gaskets and hope the motor runs another 100,000 miles. Around $600 maybe.

I could buy a remanufactured engine $1800 to $2300, that includes a 3-4 year warranty.

Or I could rebuild the whole motor, and maybe save a little money, but not have the warranty.

Thoughts?

 

Rebuild the head and send it back down the road. In the mean time locate another engine and rebuild it your self. If you get a rebuilt engine from someone make sure you research good engine builders that know these engines. Do not use a generic engine company.