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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

22R - Odd Issue

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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 06:27 PM
  #21  
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From: Virginia Beach
this isn't an automatic, is it?

does it buck like that when, after warmed up after a good drive, you really get on it?

you won't always be able to tell if a plug wire's bad by visual inspection. chances are, if it's burnt, you won't know until you go to pull it off the plug. even pulling by the boot, like you're supposed to, sometimes it'll just disintegrate where the connector is crimped on inside the boot. the bucking definitely sounds like a miss under load. I'm betting you've got a bad wire. if I've learned anything in working with these vehicles, it's to never discount the obvious. rule out the obvious before you go tearing into the carb. possible since the P.O. rebuilt it, but I don't think it's likely. but believe me, I hate jackleg hack previous owners just as much as anyone. take good care of your truck, and let its simplicity amaze you. JMHO.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 05:52 AM
  #22  
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It isn't an automatic.

I'm getting my parts either today or tomorrow. They need to be replaced regardless. I'm hoping that resolves this issue so I don't have to tear into the carb. I've read up a lot on this carb and it still seems intimidating.

Of course, I have a few friends that keep saying ditch the ASIN and go with a Weber.
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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 09:58 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gnarly4X
If you go with a Weber you'd better get prepared for lots and lots and lots of fiddling and re-adusting... and lots of frustration. Weber carbs are finicky!! There are many posts on this subject by guys who really know their . The stock Toyota carb is one the best carbs ever designed.

That's just my worthless opinion.

gNARLS.
nah, not a worthless opinion. From what I've researched - I agree with what you said.

All of those freakin' vacum lines are intimidating though...

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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #24  
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OK - finally replaced the air filter, plugs (the PO put in Autolites..and left an older one down under #1), wires, cap and rotor. It runs a LOT better but still has that hesitation/bucking under load at 55-65 mph.

I noticed the fuel level is low in the float window when it is idling. The only way to adjust this is to remove the carb?
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Old Nov 14, 2009 | 02:32 PM
  #25  
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From: Vian, OK
no, you can remove the top part of the carb (5 screws...one is hidden down in a hole between the barrels though)

i had this problem..and it turns out that the secondary barrel (closest to the motor) was not opening at all...part of the fast idle linkage was caught on the throttle linkage...so ya might take a look at that?
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 07:21 AM
  #26  
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thanks for the tip... I'll take a look at this today..
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 08:33 PM
  #27  
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First I would like to say im sorry for bringing such an old thread back to life.

I am experiencing the same bucking and power loss at higher speeds. Did you find out the reason? Was it the float level? Ignition?
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 06:06 AM
  #28  
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I'm pretty sure that it was my stock carb. It was cheaper for me to go to a new Weber than have it rebuilt (the rebuild kit alone was pretty expensive - the kit that includes new floats). I still have the original carb and one day when I have the funds I'm going to give that another shot after a rebuild. It is better than the Weber but the Weber isn't causing any issues.

Unfortunately, I can't say for sure it was the carb because my head gasket blew and I di the rebuild with the Weber. Haven't had the problem since.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 07:06 PM
  #29  
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Do you have a catalytic converter? I have had them do that. When they are mostly clogged the exhaust/pressure backs up toward the engine, especially when you step on the gas or go uphill, causing the symptoms you're experiencing. Might be worth checking. I knew a guy once who jammed a screw driver thru his to release the pressure and solve the power problem. This goofs w emissions tho....
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