22-RE needs help. Suffering it is.
Aug 27, 2018 | 09:02 PM
#1
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From: Chicago
22-RE needs help. Suffering it is.
So Im back from a 8 year 4Runner hiatus, I’ve been bouncing around in a Jeep, but I couldn’t stay away. Purchased a 1987 4Runner 22-RE 5spd. 1K plus 500 for clean quarters and rockers that need to be welded in. Story is the previous owner had engine rebuilt, ran fine for a few weeks. One day started running like a can of marbles. So I bought it with a bad engine status. Hopefully someone out there can point me in the right direction. Video of engine linked. Thanks for any advice in advance.
Aug 27, 2018 | 09:29 PM
#2
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,111
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From: Portland, Oregon, USA
Hummm.... that does not sound good. 
My first thought was a bad pulley but the way the engine turns over and runs seems strange.
Was the battery fully charged?
Turn the engine over by hand (breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt). Does the engine rotate fully with ease (with the exception of overcoming engine compression) or does the engine bind?
It almost sounded like the engine locked up around the 19-20 second mark in the video.
Are you able to tell where the noise is coming from?
My first thought was a bad pulley but the way the engine turns over and runs seems strange.
Was the battery fully charged?
Turn the engine over by hand (breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt). Does the engine rotate fully with ease (with the exception of overcoming engine compression) or does the engine bind?
It almost sounded like the engine locked up around the 19-20 second mark in the video.
Are you able to tell where the noise is coming from?
Last edited by old87yota; Aug 27, 2018 at 09:31 PM.
Aug 28, 2018 | 03:59 AM
#3
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 25
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From: Chicago
Hummm.... that does not sound good.
My first thought was a bad pulley but the way the engine turns over and runs seems strange.
Was the battery fully charged?
Turn the engine over by hand (breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt). Does the engine rotate fully with ease (with the exception of overcoming engine compression) or does the engine bind?
It almost sounded like the engine locked up around the 19-20 second mark in the video.
Are you able to tell where the noise is coming from?
My first thought was a bad pulley but the way the engine turns over and runs seems strange.
Was the battery fully charged?
Turn the engine over by hand (breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt). Does the engine rotate fully with ease (with the exception of overcoming engine compression) or does the engine bind?
It almost sounded like the engine locked up around the 19-20 second mark in the video.
Are you able to tell where the noise is coming from?
battery was brand new, fully charged.
When I get back from work this evening I’ll turn the crankshaft by hand and see how she feels.
appreciate your .02
Aug 28, 2018 | 06:29 PM
#5
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 858
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From: Mogadore, Ohio
Wow, that really sounds terrible. I expected some pre-detonation and bad pulleys, but I'm pretty sure this is worse.
Have you pulled the valve cover to check for correct mechanical timing and then done a compression check?
Have you pulled the valve cover to check for correct mechanical timing and then done a compression check?
Aug 31, 2018 | 09:39 AM
#6
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Can you confirm that engine ran fine for a few weeks after rebuild?
Sounds out of time to me. Might need to reset the distributor, and see if that is the problem. Better yet, pull the valve cover off, and check all the timing.
That sound could be coming from the crank pulley. If they used a puller to get it off, and they screwed the puller bolts too far in, the bolts will bend the dust shield, and cause it to rub the block. I learned this the hard way, but caught my mistake before I installed it. I just bent the shield back to close as I could get, and crossed my fingers, and it worked out just fine.
Sounds out of time to me. Might need to reset the distributor, and see if that is the problem. Better yet, pull the valve cover off, and check all the timing.
That sound could be coming from the crank pulley. If they used a puller to get it off, and they screwed the puller bolts too far in, the bolts will bend the dust shield, and cause it to rub the block. I learned this the hard way, but caught my mistake before I installed it. I just bent the shield back to close as I could get, and crossed my fingers, and it worked out just fine.
Last edited by snippits; Aug 31, 2018 at 09:40 AM.
Sep 2, 2018 | 09:21 AM
#7
I'd be willing to wager there are multiple sources for bad sounds there.
Do the basics, visually check the valve train for damage and proper cam timing, ensure distributor clocked "in the ballpark", sparkplugs undamaged and wired correctly, isolate the accessories by taking the belts off.
Do the basics, visually check the valve train for damage and proper cam timing, ensure distributor clocked "in the ballpark", sparkplugs undamaged and wired correctly, isolate the accessories by taking the belts off.
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Sep 4, 2018 | 04:21 AM
#8
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Joined: May 2005
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From: S. FL
Might be far fetched here, but to me engine just seems really bogged down. Were you holding the clutch in while it was doing that? Try putting tranny in neutral and using the clutch start cancel switch to start it up. If it no longer bogs and dies like that, then I'd say your clutch hydraulics are not letting you release the clutch.
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