What do you guys think about this lift kit: http://www.fatbobsgarage.com/cart/pr...-17111-47.html

It's a 2" lift from Toytech. Will I need anything else to do this right? I don't see a panhard drop bracket, etc.

Thanks!!

 

I always been told never to go anything bigger than 1.5" BJ spacers....the CV's, with more than 1.5", are really strained. Other than that stuff in there you would new panhard drop bracket like you mentioned and obviously shocks. try
http://www.trdparts4u.com/MC-CADA-BBHG.aspx they might have what you're looking for, for cheaper.

 

You will need a good set of shocks front and rear.

Thats about it.

 

I'll check out that site, 94Runner...Thanks!

I figured I'd need the shocks. Tons of threads on that here...Bilstiens are the best, right?

 

I don't think anybody will ever agree which shock is the best but the Bilstein's are extremely popular.

Fink

 

That is not required.
The drop brackets are custom made, I have never seen one mass produced.

I used Sonoran Steel for mine - I ended up going with the Panhard Drop Bar instead.

Fink

 

Check the sdori site. 1.5in bj spacer's, and I believe either 1.5 or 2in coil spacers for 'bout $100 less

 

Fink - If I don't install a panhard drop, what ill effects will I see? I've heard the lift shifts the axle to the passenger side, but will a 2" lift be so extreme? Is this something that can wait?

How hard on the cv's is the 2" bj spacer? If I relax the torsion bars, will I be able to maybe gain some flex and keep the cv angles down without having the back end sit up alot higher than the front? Or...do I need to get a diff drop from 4crawler?

I've already purchased the kit...I didn't know about the 2" problem. I got it off ebay for $140. I want to put at least 33X12.50x15 tires on, maybe even 35s. I was also considering a 1" body lift a little later.

 

I don't have my panhard bar on anymore. I needed to buy a drop bracket and didn't have the time or money to get it. So every time i would hit a bump the bar would hit the axle causing all sorts of noise. Without it there is a little more wiggle, some say unsafe, but i disagree. If you don't drive like you have a decent size engine with power and speed, and you drive normal with a little more caution you will get used to not having it on. But, in your case you don't want to get the panhard drop bracket. You might not be able to connect it back to the axle without some serious strength.

1.5" cause a lot of stain on the CV's. That's why my next mod is to get manual locking hubs. 2" with cause more strain that 1.5" and with 1.5" I've already torn 2 CV boots in a month. I wouldn't recommend 2" but since you already purchased them, there's nothing you can do unless you want to shell out another $116 to SDORI for high quality 1.5" spacers.

And with the BJ spacers you will only be able to make room for 33's or 35's not flexed. BJ spacers increase travel no clearance. Full flex and crank and you would rub a lot. You would have to do a good bit of trimming and cutting for the 35's and not so much for the 33's. I have a 1" BL on mine and I only pounded the pinch weld and don't rub at all on full flex and crank.

 

So...what you're saying is bj spacers increase travel...isn't that also "flex"? (I'm new to this...) I figured if I put the 2" bj spacers in, and let some tension off the torsion bars, I might get a little more flex, and be able to keep my cv angles closer to stock. Another idea is to put the rear springs in (my truck sags), and adjust the front with the torsion bars, not even using the bj spacers...would that work?

As for the panhard bar: You're saying if I completely take it off, it's cool...just a little looser in the rear? Or, I could leave it on, put the springs in, and see what happens???

Thanks for all the input so far, guys! I've been here at Yotatech for awhile now, and reading through all the posts has helped with quite a few things! I probably spend a little too much time on here, but my truck is coming along pretty good now! Thanks!!

 

the balljoint spacers push the spindle and lower control arm down. you will only get more travel or 'flex' if the bushings on top and bottom are shaved off as well.

 

Just keep in mind Toyota put it there for a reason.
Your back-end will feel a little wishy-washy and some do believe it is unsafe.

You could try driving without it for a few days and see what you think.
I have not done any research on the ill-effects of not having one.

I was just advised to get the bracket or the modified bar so I did.

Wish I could be of more help!

Fink

 

Just so you know, chances are you won't be able to run 33x12.50" tires with just balljoint spacers. Since it will compress to the exact same spot at stock.

You will need at least a 1" body lift. For 35's you will need a 3" body lift and some trimming.

You will also need wheels that stick out farther to clear your upper control arms. My spare 33x12.50 bogger is on a stock rim and it won't fit up front.

Having wheels that stick out farther also cause rubbing issues, more lift is usually needed.
Kinda a vicious circle if you will....

 

very true!

 

Interesting...I don't want to be unsafe. I drive this thing with the wife, kid, and dog in it. I have 31s now, and would really like to get up to 33s with the kit I just bought, and a 1" bodylift. I don't do alot of hard wheeling now because I live in FL and I can't find anything too difficult here, but I also go to TN alot, and there are some pretty cool trails there. I thought this kit was a pretty good deal, so I bought it...BUT, I don't want to install it and create a safety issue or hurt my truck, either.

If/when I go with 33s (and I want the 12.50s because they stick out a little and I can get fender flairs!!) I will have rubbing issues when I wheel it? Even with the correct backspacing (3.75") on the wheels? Even if I pound the pinch weld in? And, the 2" bj spacers are going to be murder on my cvs unless I get manual hubs (already planned)?

So, in closing, I need these parts to complete the install safely and correctly:

1. shocks front/rear
2. panhard drop bracket
3. any extended break lines? etc.
(31X10.50X15)
4. 1" body lift
5. 3.75" backspacing on 15" rims
6. 33X12.50X15 tires

 

Check this out.

All you need is a 1" body lift, new wheels and whatever tires you want.
If you go this route you don't need new shocks (unless yours are shot).

Minor trimming of the pinch weld is preferable but I made it 6 months without doing it. Took me about 6 minutes to do. 1 minute cutting, 4 minutes grinding it smooth and making it look nice and then one more minute hitting the spots with some bedliner.

I loved my 2nd gen and miss it dearly. That was the rig that brought me to YotaTech.
Brings back memories looking at that thread...

Fink

 

Well, you see the wider tire and 3.75" backspaced rim (stock is 4.75") will cause rubbing. Are you planning on going with a mud tire or all terrain?

if allterrain then you shouldnt have problems, they are usually a tad smaller then mud tires. Im running 1.5" bj spacers and a 3" body lift with 3.5" backspaced wheels and 33x12.50 mud tires, I still get some minor rubbing at full flex/full crank.

The bj spacers will help clearance when on the pavement, but as soon as the suspension compresses you will run into rubbing (when wheels are turned).

It depends how much trimming you're willing to do. Im not willing to hack into my fenders to much.

 

I had 33x12.50 BFG M/T's with just a 1" bl. I don't remember the backspacing of the Tech1's I had...
Trimmed maybe 3/4" off the pinch weld, plastic liner was still intact.

Take a BFH to it to get it fine tuned. Even at full lock either direction and at full compression I had about 1/8" clearance left.

Fink

 

Hmm. Its the wider stance that kills the clearance. With the bj spacers you need wide wheels (they look good too ), that pushes the wheel out of the factory position.

I guess im an unlucky one

 

You can always measure the rear axle positionbefore and after the lift to see if a panhard drop bracket is needed. Usually 2" lift is OK, but some folks do see an excessive shift and if so a bracket is easy to install:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...anhardDropBrkt

Same on the diff drop, if you find the CVs binding at full droop then a drop kit is needed for sure. If you do not have manual hubs up front and you find the ribs of the CV boots touching and rubbing while you drive, that can cause the boots to wear prematurely, a diff drop will help there and/or install manual hubs. And if you find CV joints failing faster than before, a diff drop can help to extend the CV joint life:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml