I am going to make my own BJ spacers, but is there any reason why the mass produced ones are 1.5", or can I go 2" no problem?

 

From what I understand they are done to 1.5" since that is about the most you want to lift your ifs front end without dropping your diff since it puts the cv joints at a more extreme angle

 

Ok, so with a 1" diff drop I should be good to go? it's not a clearance issue or anything?

 

I think they only did 1.5 because if you go any bigger than that you start to have problems with your CAs. Im not 100% percent on this so if anyone can correct please do.

 

1.5 is max and even then a 1" diff drop is reccomended. My axles almost bind without the 1" drop so I decided to drop the diff 1" and alls good.

You can't really increase IFS perfomance anyway you look at it unless you get into long travel kits and then you're throwing money away IMO. BJ's realistically allow you to gain some lift while being able to back off the torsions for a better ride. They don't increase or decrease 'flex' from stock unless before hand you really had your bars cranked.

Overall, a small body lift 1.5" balljoints and new longer rear shackles give you better performance, cheaper than any 4" IFS lift out there IMO.

 

Recommended by whom?

You?

 

you guys really need to search the theads.

A 1" diff drop WILL defeat the purpose of lifting. Take a look at your front crossmember and diff. Put a tape measure there and see where it sits with a 1" drop. Got protection?

1.5" BJ spacers from anyone are actually taller than specified.

NOBODY should make 2" spacers unless you want to bust axles and tweak parts.
If anything, 1" spacers would be ideal. Most people end up selling (1.5") spacers rather than keeping them. In a nutshell, they deform the geometry of your suspension in ways it wasn't meant to be.

Can you really make something as precise as this...

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Ever wonder why BJ spacers used to be all the rage but now there not?

 

You certainly can make something as precise as that. Using the magic of computer aided machining my BJ spacers will be within a tolerance of .0001" If I choose not to use the HAAS mill then something as simple as a band saw, and drill press could net me close to the same results. It's not like you need extreme tight tolerances.

 

I experimented with the CV angle and observed binding of the inner CV at the drop you are suggesting. If you would like to do this, I would suggest jacking up the front and undoing both upper ball joints. Use a jack to lower the a-arm 2". With the wheel off spin the hub by hand turning the steering wheel lock to lock. If you can spin it freely with the minimal amount of torque you can apply by hand consider yourself good to go.

You could also save yourself a lot of work and just use low-pro bump stops in conjunction with the 1.5" spacers. They will have the same effect.

I make this next statement out of nothing other than the desire to be completely honest with the off road community. I make a product that has to work on everything from pristine trucks to those that have "altered" suspensions from abuse. I leave a bit of a buffer and don't push limits to the extreme. I won't suggest that anyone else push it that far either. That said, if you want to take the time to test your truck's limits and find, for example, you believe your truck can tolerate the spacers with low pro bumpstops, it's your truck, go for it. If you break it, it's your own dough. If you don't feel comfortable with that risk, don't do it. I only ask that if you take these risks, report your experiences back to all of us in an honest manner. Please don't put down the product because it was not used as directed.



Frank

 

ok so i take it its NOT a good idea to buy 3" wheel spacers?

 

Totally different product, ball joint spacers make a 1.5" space between the a-arm and balljoint. Wheel spacers fit on your axle tubes and put a spacer between the wheel and the axle-making your wheels stick out further.