1st Gen 4Runner ZUK Mod DIY/How to (Lots 'o' photos!)
10-22-2011, 07:25 PM
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01-03-2012, 02:37 PM
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I think I saw you post this question in another ZUK thread didn't I? 
They are hard to find and expensive if ordered form dealer I think.
Best bet is to either:
1) hunt from a boneyard for some
2) order the custom ones from ZUK's - just PM him here on the board, I think he makes custom ones with metal instead of rubber for your springs to fit onto.
They are hard to find and expensive if ordered form dealer I think.
Best bet is to either:
1) hunt from a boneyard for some
2) order the custom ones from ZUK's - just PM him here on the board, I think he makes custom ones with metal instead of rubber for your springs to fit onto.
01-03-2012, 02:39 PM
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Ive been running for more than a year with the rubber stop missing on one side. I have never had a problem, I drive offroad daily and haul more than pretty much anyone on here. I used the 12*150 springs
01-05-2012, 09:24 PM
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Yeah you did, and thanks! I've been looking even been to a few junkyards and haven't had any luck yet. Finally getting around to having some money around to get stuff done.
08-15-2012, 07:18 AM
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For the ones that have done this... I've tried searching and can't find information on the shocks... did most of you stay on stock height shocks or had to get longer ones? Or by raising its actually moving it back to what stock height is supposed to be?..... Looking to do this soon. My bumpstops have about an inch of clearance. Sorry if this is over thinking things....
08-15-2012, 07:29 AM
#129
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no change in shock size....although you may need new ones just because.
here is our thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-turn-251897/
here is our thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-turn-251897/
08-15-2012, 07:39 AM
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For the ones that have done this... I've tried searching and can't find information on the shocks... did most of you stay on stock height shocks or had to get longer ones? Or by raising its actually moving it back to what stock height is supposed to be?..... Looking to do this soon. My bumpstops have about an inch of clearance. Sorry if this is over thinking things....
On my completely stock 4 Runner, I used TJ springs in the rear & BJ spacers in the front with no torsion bar adjustment. It resulted in a 1.5" lift and is completely level. With a 1.5" lift, I had to stay with stock rear shocks to prevent them from bottoming out under maximum compression. You could go with a longer shock in the rear but it would require a longer bump stop or shocks with a built in bump stop. I believe Deotsch (www.doetsch-shocks.com/) has shocks available with internal bump stops.
Good luck,
Ken
Last edited by FJXX; 08-15-2012 at 07:45 AM.
08-15-2012, 07:41 AM
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no change in shock size....although you may need new ones just because.
here is our thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-turn-251897/
here is our thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-turn-251897/
I had a 4 inch block lift that I replaced with this mod so I effectively gained about four inches over stock once I ditched the blocks. Now, I am assuming that the pro comp shocks that came with my kit were longer than stock...is that not true?
08-15-2012, 07:47 AM
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I think it depends on what springs you are using & the amount of lift.
On my completely stock 4 Runner, I used TJ springs in the rear & BJ spacers in the front with no torsion bar adjustment. It resulted in a 1.5" lift and is completely level. With a 1.5" lift, I had to stay with stock shocks to prevent the rear shocks from bottoming out under maximum compression. You could go with a longer shock in the rear but it would require a longer bump stop or shocks with a built in bump stop. I believe Deotsch (www.doetsch-shocks.com/) has shocks available with internal bump stops.
Good luck,
Ken
On my completely stock 4 Runner, I used TJ springs in the rear & BJ spacers in the front with no torsion bar adjustment. It resulted in a 1.5" lift and is completely level. With a 1.5" lift, I had to stay with stock shocks to prevent the rear shocks from bottoming out under maximum compression. You could go with a longer shock in the rear but it would require a longer bump stop or shocks with a built in bump stop. I believe Deotsch (www.doetsch-shocks.com/) has shocks available with internal bump stops.
Good luck,
Ken
08-15-2012, 07:59 AM
#133
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
all i can say is that when we did the NO-CUT ZUK MOD on Joe's 4runner. it basically moved it (the rear) back to where it should be, and based upon the fact that new shocks were placed before we bought it, no new shocks were necessary. and if you are returning your vehicle back to stock height, i can't imagine why new shocks would be needed except to replace abused ones.
as far as the additional question about BJ spacers....can't help on that one.
08-15-2012, 08:03 AM
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You'll want to do your research on putting in the spacers as it's more involved. I thought it was easy, but I took my time & had other vehicles to drive. You will also need to get a front end alignment from a shop who knows what they're doing after putting in the BJ spacers & the torsion lift (if needed).
If you don't have the TJ springs, I sourced mine from a local Jeep 4x4 shop for $20.
You're going to love how it rides & the additional payload capacity.
08-15-2012, 08:15 AM
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That should be the case. You do have more weight up front than me since you have the V6, so you may have to adjust your torsion bars, but that's easy. Make sure you get new nuts from Toyota for them if you do.
You'll want to do your research on putting in the spacers as it's more involved. I thought it was easy, but I took my time & had other vehicles to drive. You will also need to get a front end alignment from a shop who knows what they're doing after putting in the BJ spacers & the torsion lift (if needed).
If you don't have the TJ springs, I sourced mine from a local Jeep 4x4 shop for $20.
You're going to love how it rides & the additional payload capacity.
You'll want to do your research on putting in the spacers as it's more involved. I thought it was easy, but I took my time & had other vehicles to drive. You will also need to get a front end alignment from a shop who knows what they're doing after putting in the BJ spacers & the torsion lift (if needed).
If you don't have the TJ springs, I sourced mine from a local Jeep 4x4 shop for $20.
You're going to love how it rides & the additional payload capacity.
08-15-2012, 08:28 AM
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08-15-2012, 01:16 PM
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Thanks for your help... I'm going to do the ZUK mod first with the TJ springs and wait to see how that rides and then go from there... But seems like it would be a good idea to get slightly longer shocks for proper travel when I decide to get the BJ spacers. Wish I knew what shocks from other make/models would work assuming after all was said and done I had a 1.5-2.5 lift. At least in the meantime some inexpensive rock auto shocks that are longer than stock would work before I can afford(maybe next summer) to get something nicer.
08-15-2012, 01:30 PM
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Thanks for your help... I'm going to do the ZUK mod first with the TJ springs and wait to see how that rides and then go from there... But seems like it would be a good idea to get slightly longer shocks for proper travel when I decide to get the BJ spacers. Wish I knew what shocks from other make/models would work assuming after all was said and done I had a 1.5-2.5 lift. At least in the meantime some inexpensive rock auto shocks that are longer than stock would work before I can afford(maybe next summer) to get something nicer.
That's basically what I did. Be careful @ only 1.5" of lift & longer shocks. The extra droop would be nice but if you run into a situation where you bottom out those rear shocks at high speeds, you could potentially risk getting your vehicle out of control. The situation would have be extreme but it is a risk. Imagine bending a shock in this situation & it no longer articulates @ highway speeds. Yikes!
I have longer shocks sitting in the garage ready to go on but stuck with the stock size just because of this issue. However, if I were to do it again, I would have bought the Deotsch shocks and be running them now.
Ken
08-15-2012, 01:55 PM
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Glad to help.
That's basically what I did. Be careful @ only 1.5" of lift & longer shocks. The extra droop would be nice but if you run into a situation where you bottom out those rear shocks at high speeds, you could potentially risk getting your vehicle out of control. The situation would have be extreme but it is a risk. Imagine bending a shock in this situation & it no longer articulates @ highway speeds. Yikes!
I have longer shocks sitting in the garage ready to go on but stuck with the stock size just because of this issue. However, if I were to do it again, I would have bought the Deotsch shocks and be running them now.
Ken
That's basically what I did. Be careful @ only 1.5" of lift & longer shocks. The extra droop would be nice but if you run into a situation where you bottom out those rear shocks at high speeds, you could potentially risk getting your vehicle out of control. The situation would have be extreme but it is a risk. Imagine bending a shock in this situation & it no longer articulates @ highway speeds. Yikes!
I have longer shocks sitting in the garage ready to go on but stuck with the stock size just because of this issue. However, if I were to do it again, I would have bought the Deotsch shocks and be running them now.
Ken
In theory,to avoid thatscary situation, I could measure the distance(rear) from the mounting points of the shock minus the gap between the bumpstop and as long as I dont go with a shock that has a "compressed" length bigger than that I should be fine right?
It would seem that shorter is better than longer in this case...
Does that seem logical? I would obviously not want 1 inch of travel before reaching the fully expanded length either....
08-15-2012, 02:15 PM
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I'll keep that in mind.(scary to think about it) Perhaps get longer ones for up front only with the spacers and leave the rear ones alone unless I go bigger than say 2 inches or so.
In theory,to avoid thatscary situation, I could measure the distance(rear) from the mounting points of the shock minus the gap between the bumpstop and as long as I dont go with a shock that has a "compressed" length bigger than that I should be fine right?
It would seem that shorter is better than longer in this case... Does that seem logical? I would obviously not want 1 inch of travel before reaching the fully expanded length either....
In theory,to avoid thatscary situation, I could measure the distance(rear) from the mounting points of the shock minus the gap between the bumpstop and as long as I dont go with a shock that has a "compressed" length bigger than that I should be fine right?
It would seem that shorter is better than longer in this case...
Does that seem logical? I would obviously not want 1 inch of travel before reaching the fully expanded length either....
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