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1st gen 4runner reman3.0L won't start

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Old 04-10-2013, 12:26 PM
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1st gen 4runner reman3.0L won't start

Just dropped a rebuilt 3vze into my 89. I had to pull the plenum a couple times to chase down a coolant leak. But the engine started up and ran smooth prior to that. This last time it started up and ran fine til it warmed up then began hesitating before it quit. After the engine cooled it started back up and ran for a short time before it quit again and then would start and sputter only. Now will not start at all. Any ideas?

Last edited by wwrafter; 04-10-2013 at 12:27 PM.
Old 04-10-2013, 01:30 PM
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Any trouble codes?
Old 04-10-2013, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by brianh699
Any trouble codes?
Don't have anything to check for codes. Working with limited supply of tools. Only what was needed to drop the engine in.
Old 04-10-2013, 01:55 PM
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Read this.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...es/index.shtml
And have one of these handy
Old 04-10-2013, 02:30 PM
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I'll check and let you know.
Old 04-10-2013, 02:39 PM
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Do the easy stuff first; trouble codes, timing, and I'd probably check compression just because it is so easy to do.

But if the only thing to change before/after was removing the plenum, the most likely problem is an error in reconnecting the vacuum lines.
Old 04-10-2013, 04:43 PM
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Working on getting the trouble codes and will post the results soon. Not likely the timing ad the engine was running good after the plenum was reinstalled. I'm leaning towards a fuel delivery problem. I was very meticulous with labeling the vacuum lines prior to removal but they are getting old.
Old 04-10-2013, 05:18 PM
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Check for any cracks in the intake hose, also.
Old 04-10-2013, 06:35 PM
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Ok. Checked for codes using the system in the above link but got no response.
Old 04-10-2013, 10:04 PM
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Thanks tnrabit intake hose/ tubing in good condition. Any other ideas?
Old 04-10-2013, 11:24 PM
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pull the plenum off again and check the fuel injector wiring harness. I know when I pulled my valve covers off I had to remove the passenger side plugs and lost the little plastic clip on one of them. Zip tied it down and solved the problem. Maybe one is not fully engaged and that is causing/caused your sputtering.
Old 04-11-2013, 02:09 AM
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In the diagnostic connector where you jumped terminals te1 and e1 to check codes, there are two terminals marked fp and B+ if you jump these it will apply battery voltage to the fuel pump. See if it runs then.
Old 04-11-2013, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by wwrafter
Ok. Checked for codes using the system in the above link but got no response.
When you say "no response", you mean you had steady flashing of the CEL?
Old 04-11-2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TNRabbit
When you say "no response", you mean you had steady flashing of the CEL?
The terminals are marked "T" and "E1" does this make a difference? I made multiple attempts with a jumper wire and the CEL would stay lit (no flashing)
Old 04-11-2013, 01:51 PM
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Ok I wasn't paying attention and used the wrong terminals. Got it figured out and show no trouble codes. (Continuous flashing) and fuel pump checks out.
Old 04-11-2013, 04:11 PM
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This should be the last update. Got everything up and running again and I feel like a fool. When the head gasket went and I decided to do an eng swap the fuel tank was getting low. Apparently too low. My GF suggested I try adding a gal or two of gas I told her that couldn't be the problem. (The fuel light wasn't even showing). Just to shut her up I opened the fuel drain plug and got a few drops of gas and a bunch of air pushing out. Oops. I guess she was dry.
In a way it was a fuel file very problem as there wasn't any fuel to deliver.
Thanks to everyone who made suggestions, I learned a couple of new tricks and I think I owe my girlfriend a candlelit dinner and a huge apology.
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