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That's what the eBay listing says, but the Toyota listing for that part number doesn't give that limitation. https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/_...791026040.html I'm not sure WHY it would make a difference. The brake lines up at the master cylinder are probably bent differently, but once you get back to the rear axle, I'd be surprised if there was any difference.
For $190, I'd call and ask. For $30, like Erich, I might just look at the pictures then decide to try it out.
Note that Toyota says it (this part number) won't fit, the eBay seller says it will, and most importantly, Erich says all you have to do is rotate the mounting fork.
I have not done my FINAL tests yet. Preliminary and theoretically, it works to replace the existing part, with only modification is a simple procedure at the bench with the new part, by remove snap-ring and rotate the plastic guide bracket then put snap ring back on. I have yet to fit it into my bracket & install (due to freezing cold weather), confirm the fittings are the same size, and that the bolt-hole distance is the same. I have access to milling machine with shop full of tools to re-tap fittings and re-size mounting hole. I really doubt I need to do that.
There is a "left hand drive" and "right hand drive" models, which appear to be a mirror of each other with the fittings face opposite directions. The eBay vendor claims part #47910 26040 it will NOT fit. It has the right fittings on the correct sides for my truck, so I am just going to take a chance for the $28 and try, since it would save me the labor of re-routing my lines and scavenge-hunt elbo and fittings for the procedure of a manual prop valve.
Back in 2017, I came across that same aftermarket valve when I needed one for my 92 2wd pickup. I had the old leaking one in my hand comparing it to a picture of the aftermarket one, and there was no way it was going to fit my truck because it was ass backwards. I ended up buying the Toyota part.
Keep us updated on whether or not if it works!
and there was no way it was going to fit my truck because it was ass backwards. I ended up buying the Toyota part.
Ass backwards. Does that mean the fittings were on the wrong side? If that was the case, it may have been a matter of ordering (or them packing) the wrong part.
Erich - Did you have success installing the $28 proportioning valve? I am thinking of doing the same on my '94
Not yet, the part is sitting in the box ready to go. It's been 30(f) or below every day since I got it ready. If there is no more "STATE OF EMERGENCY SNOW ALARMS" this week, hopefully I can do it on one of the days it reaches 40+.
Erich - Did you have success installing the $28 proportioning valve? I am thinking of doing the same on my '94
Ok, I got some work done tonight. I can say, so far - the first reason why the prop valve part numbers probably do not match up is because this bracket is kind of forced to be on there. I do not believe an OEM replace part could work, since it looks like this entire assembly was intended to be replaced, instead of just the prop valve itself.
Rear of prop valve. These bolts are PRESSED in. I have to grind them off to get this valve out.
Prop valve front. As you can see, the NUTS clearly broke off as the corrosion was more strong than the steel.
I am parting out a rust free 1995 4Runner from Arizona, that has a manual transmission, to repair my Runner that needed a front clip.
If you are still in need of an OEM assembly, I can let you have the one on the donor car for $40.00 plus shipping to your zip code.
I am in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Ok, after too much time removing the seized and rusted fasteners from the assembly, I was able to dismantle the actual prop valve and reveal the magic behind this device. We were all 100% surprised. The 1995 truck has rust, corrosion, wear on just about every single part. Not the inside of this. For reasons unknown, it looks absolutely immaculate as if it were brand new. No signs of ever being used. The previous owner had not replaced this. There are slight scratches found on the red, anodized part - but not enough to break the anodized layer. There parts are anodized, I believe this is for alignment purposes. When assembled, it is possible to see the bright blue through the last hole opposite the mounting tab at the top. When screwing it back together, it is possible to see the red through the other holes, as it is fastened back in.
Mar 3, 2019 | 11:46 AM
