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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

1995 3vze Timing belt removal and replacement "With Lots Of Pics"

Old Apr 29, 2012 | 07:50 AM
  #101  
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Thanks for clarifying.
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 06:02 PM
  #102  
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From: The Great North WET
Nice info...

Good job with the belt change and pictures.. I'm looking at the same job and I'm 1/2 way through but I smeared a key on the crank gear and I'm not sure I should reuse the gear... anyone have an idea on where to get a new one?
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 05:03 PM
  #103  
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From: lathrop,ca
very helpful post- the only thing i was curious about was the removal of the water outlet/ idler pully, i couldnt get a wobble socket on there. the only thing i could get in there was a swivel socket but i broke it during removal. apparently it is a specialty part and cant find one anywhere. any thoughts would be extremely helpful
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 11:42 PM
  #104  
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From: The Great North WET
Got it

So we got a replacement from a wrecking yard. None of the shops around could give us the right part and that just amuses me to no end!
Seems like most everything else I have my hands on... mid year /end of line / off year/ new design used only once... etc... It's them late 80s New ideas biting me in the A$$.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #105  
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From: Western Washington
Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome write up! It's saving my butt right now due to my water pump going out after only 40k (previous owner had the job done by a shop that clearly didn't care about the quality of parts they used).
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 01:05 PM
  #106  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by Shini
Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome write up! It's saving my butt right now due to my water pump going out after only 40k (previous owner had the job done by a shop that clearly didn't care about the quality of parts they used).
thank you! let us know how it works out for you
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #107  
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From: Western Washington
Well, I got it all back together, but I'm going to have to tear it half way back apart again. I didn't have a chain wrench to get the cam sprocket that refused to stay lined up properly off and do the trick where you put it on with the belt so everything stays perfect TDC. It was off by one tooth and I figured I could at least get it together and make sure the water pump seal and everything was good and fix the timing glitch next weekend. For reference, you aren't going to get it to run more than a rough stumble if the two cams are a tooth off from each other apparently (I was hoping it would at least let me make it around the block). The good news is that everything else seems to be just peachy so far.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #108  
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From: New Mexico
Hey Buckz Do you mind throwing up the torq specs for the water pump and #2 Idler Pully? Just for a complete reference thread.
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 03:01 PM
  #109  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by Notraps
Hey Buckz Do you mind throwing up the torq specs for the water pump and #2 Idler Pully? Just for a complete reference thread.
I'm sorry, I don't have that 4runner anymore and, I can't remember the torque specs on parts your asking about, however I don't think it is vary high

you should do a search and I'm sure you can find the answer or maybe someone who posted on this thread, will answer that question

good luck! and keep the rubber on the road and the shinny side up!

Cheers.....
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Old Mar 14, 2013 | 05:53 AM
  #110  
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From: New Mexico
Originally Posted by buckz6319
I'm sorry, I don't have that 4runner anymore and, I can't remember the torque specs on parts your asking about, however I don't think it is vary high

you should do a search and I'm sure you can find the answer or maybe someone who posted on this thread, will answer that question

good luck! and keep the rubber on the road and the shinny side up!

Cheers.....

You're a cool dude Buckz. I like your style. Thanks for the write up.
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 03:35 PM
  #111  
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Where did the pictures go, anyone have them?
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 04:33 PM
  #112  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by Just_ Rollin'
Where did the pictures go, anyone have them?
I wrote this thread, and may still have them. I had to make room on my hosting service for more pics of my current projects, sorry
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 06:42 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Just_ Rollin'
Where did the pictures go, anyone have them?
^ I agree!
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 06:48 AM
  #114  
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From: Pennsylvania, East
Originally Posted by buckz6319
I wrote this thread, and may still have them. I had to make room on my hosting service for more pics of my current projects, sorry
I see. Your thread seems to be the only fully illustrated guide to doing the timing belt that I could find. Sure there is the FSM but color pictures are worlds better. I hope you can locate those photos again some day.
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:41 PM
  #115  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by Just_ Rollin'
I see. Your thread seems to be the only fully illustrated guide to doing the timing belt that I could find. Sure there is the FSM but color pictures are worlds better. I hope you can locate those photos again some day.
got your wish
go to 1st page
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #116  
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From: GA
Originally Posted by Just_ Rollin'
Where did the pictures go, anyone have them?
got your wish
go to 1st page
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:45 PM
  #117  
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From: GA
reconstructed the thread again with pics, hope this helps
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 08:52 AM
  #118  
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From: Pennsylvania, East
Wow, thanks so much buckz6319, really appreciate it.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 10:11 AM
  #119  
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From: Central California
When installing the new timing belt, what is the detail of how the mark lines up with the bottom pulley?? (I offered to handle my friends water pump without knowing that I would have to do the timing belt along with it)
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 10:31 AM
  #120  
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From: San Francisco East Bay
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf

The marks on the belt are just a "convenience"; many don't have them because of confused questions like yours. All you're trying to do is end up with the crank at TDC and the two cam sprockets pointing up once the belt is on and tightened. For most pre-marked belts, you'll have one mark at the bottom of the crank, and one each on top of each sprocket.

After you get it all snugged up, you'll turn the crank twice with a wrench to confirm that cam pulleys return to straight up. But don't expect the marks to line up again for a long time! The ratio of belt length to sprocket diameter is carefully selected so that the same part of the sprocket doesn't hit the same part of the belt each time around. (In gearing, this is called a "hunting" pattern.)
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