Read down through this link and it has pictures of lining up the belt.

http://m.instructables.com/id/1994-T...ment/?ALLSTEPS

 

The pictures are fine, but I'd ignore most of the text. For instance, he reinstalled the crank bolt to 25 ftlbs; the correct torque is 181 ftlbs! (which is why you need the shop-built tool to hold the crank while you put the torque on the bolt)

 

I realize the crank bolt torque was wrong and didn't have any issues getting mine torqued to 181 ft lbs without the special tool. I always double check torque specs wth the manual anyway....

 

Thanks for the comments and input. I did it one more time and "primed" the bottom crank by on tooth before putting the tension pulley on. Decided to throw the main pulley on and see if she starts. Of course, the battery was dead, but it started up and ran smoothly so I'm going to figure I've got it right. May need to walk away from it for the day and re-assemble the rest tomorrow!!

 

How did you keep the crank from turning? Leaving it in gear and hoping the parking brake holds? (There are other ways.)

 

I used the long bolts from the pulley puller and drilled two holes through a 2X4 to match up with the holes on the pulley and then lodged that against the chassis. Then I put the bolts through those holes and screwed them into the pulley. If I were to do it again I would use a piece of flat metal instead of the 2X4. It worked pretty good and I had no problems getting 181 lbs on the torque wrench

 

Sounds like a (shop-built) special tool to me! I'm glad it worked, but I suspect you'd have an easier time with metal instead of wood. Here's my (of course) favorite: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/

 

I plan on tearing down my 3.slow starting this weekend and this thread has given me a TON of insight and I feel much better tackling the job!

 

scope103, It was "special" alright. Lol. I didn't have a piece of flat metal at the time or I would have built one similar to yours. I'll have it for next time though!

Turbo_4runner, that link I posted above was really helpful. Just remember the torque on the crank bolt is 181 ft lbs and not the 25 ft lbs he wrote. Also, I think he had the auto instead of manual tranny in which you don't have to disconnect all the tranny lines under the radiator as the manual doesn't have those.

 

I know I made a big mistake by letting my #1 crank pulley move when i took the belt off and I tried to move it back. I put it all back together and now it just cranks and cranks but wont start. I know the timing is off but I'm not too sure what to do now, any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Sounds like you need to start over. Set the crank at TDC (0 degrees on the crankshaft timing cover), make sure both camshafts are pointing at the marks on the timing cover. Set the belt in place and line the marks up and then use a block of wood to support the tensioner bearing before you actually install the tensioner. This will make sure that the belt is taught while you install the other components.

 

Thanks for the help.I hope I can get time to take it all apart and reset the timing like you said, and get it running again.

 

I'm using this thread as we speak to break down my motor currently. I also have to do my valve covers but to the OP thank you very much for your attention to detail, it's greatly appreciated!

 

Just out of curiosity, where is the upper timing belt cover?

 

It's on the front of the engine and covers the cams, etc.

 

Great write-up btw! I know where the cover is, just found it odd that it wasn't in the picture before or after the job was done.

 

Ah, the intent of your question was not clear to me.

 

I've read completely through this thread and haven't seen the answer to my problem.

I replaced the head gaskets on my 95 4runner 3.0. I'm now reassembling it and can't seem to put the hydraulic tensioner back in. It's still on the clutch fan. Do I have to pull out the 2 bolts holding it? I haven't been able to push the pin in to get it back under the pully.

 

You'll need to pull the tensioner off and compress the pin with a vise, press, really big channel locks, etc. Once the pin is retracted, place a small hex wrench or stiff piece of wire in the hole to keep the pin retracted. Now, reinstall and once all bolted up pull the hex wrench/wire out.

 

Sounds easy enough. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks alot. =D