1995 3vze Timing belt removal and replacement "With Lots Of Pics"
#102
Nice info...
Good job with the belt change and pictures.. I'm looking at the same job and I'm 1/2 way through but I smeared a key on the crank gear and I'm not sure I should reuse the gear... anyone have an idea on where to get a new one?
#103
very helpful post- the only thing i was curious about was the removal of the water outlet/ idler pully, i couldnt get a wobble socket on there. the only thing i could get in there was a swivel socket but i broke it during removal. apparently it is a specialty part and cant find one anywhere. any thoughts would be extremely helpful
#104
Got it
So we got a replacement from a wrecking yard. None of the shops around could give us the right part and that just amuses me to no end! 
Seems like most everything else I have my hands on... mid year /end of line / off year/ new design used only once... etc...
It's them late 80s New ideas biting me in the A$$.

Seems like most everything else I have my hands on... mid year /end of line / off year/ new design used only once... etc...
It's them late 80s New ideas biting me in the A$$.
#105
Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome write up! It's saving my butt right now due to my water pump going out after only 40k (previous owner had the job done by a shop that clearly didn't care about the quality of parts they used).
#106
thank you! let us know how it works out for you
#107
Well, I got it all back together, but I'm going to have to tear it half way back apart again. I didn't have a chain wrench to get the cam sprocket that refused to stay lined up properly off and do the trick where you put it on with the belt so everything stays perfect TDC. It was off by one tooth and I figured I could at least get it together and make sure the water pump seal and everything was good and fix the timing glitch next weekend. For reference, you aren't going to get it to run more than a rough stumble if the two cams are a tooth off from each other apparently (I was hoping it would at least let me make it around the block). The good news is that everything else seems to be just peachy so far.
#109
you should do a search and I'm sure you can find the answer or maybe someone who posted on this thread, will answer that question
good luck! and keep the rubber on the road and the shinny side up!
Cheers.....
#110
I'm sorry, I don't have that 4runner anymore and, I can't remember the torque specs on parts your asking about, however I don't think it is vary high
you should do a search and I'm sure you can find the answer or maybe someone who posted on this thread, will answer that question
good luck! and keep the rubber on the road and the shinny side up!
Cheers.....
you should do a search and I'm sure you can find the answer or maybe someone who posted on this thread, will answer that question
good luck! and keep the rubber on the road and the shinny side up!
Cheers.....
You're a cool dude Buckz. I like your style. Thanks for the write up.
#112
#114
I see. Your thread seems to be the only fully illustrated guide to doing the timing belt that I could find. Sure there is the FSM but color pictures are worlds better. I hope you can locate those photos again some day.
#115
#119
When installing the new timing belt, what is the detail of how the mark lines up with the bottom pulley?? (I offered to handle my friends water pump without knowing that I would have to do the timing belt along with it)
#120
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf
The marks on the belt are just a "convenience"; many don't have them because of confused questions like yours. All you're trying to do is end up with the crank at TDC and the two cam sprockets pointing up once the belt is on and tightened. For most pre-marked belts, you'll have one mark at the bottom of the crank, and one each on top of each sprocket.
After you get it all snugged up, you'll turn the crank twice with a wrench to confirm that cam pulleys return to straight up. But don't expect the marks to line up again for a long time! The ratio of belt length to sprocket diameter is carefully selected so that the same part of the sprocket doesn't hit the same part of the belt each time around. (In gearing, this is called a "hunting" pattern.)
The marks on the belt are just a "convenience"; many don't have them because of confused questions like yours. All you're trying to do is end up with the crank at TDC and the two cam sprockets pointing up once the belt is on and tightened. For most pre-marked belts, you'll have one mark at the bottom of the crank, and one each on top of each sprocket.
After you get it all snugged up, you'll turn the crank twice with a wrench to confirm that cam pulleys return to straight up. But don't expect the marks to line up again for a long time! The ratio of belt length to sprocket diameter is carefully selected so that the same part of the sprocket doesn't hit the same part of the belt each time around. (In gearing, this is called a "hunting" pattern.)



