1993 4runner fuel pump maybe?????
Aug 8, 2014 | 09:48 PM
#41
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 118
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From: washington state
Hey guys just an update on my problem... When I advanced my timing I thought it was at about 12-13 but I checked it the next day and it got to 15 so I put it at 13-14 and set my afm to 6 teeth lean not 4 and it ram like a champ today
Aug 10, 2014 | 11:49 AM
#42
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
Right on Hollywood, congratulations on figuring it out. How do adjust the AFM? Do you have to remove the plastic cover where the connector goes on top of the AFM? If my truck is running lean, is that something I can adjust to possibly fix my lean issue (if my issue isn't my fuel pump which I'm changing today)?
And it was way easy to remove my bed to get to the fuel pump, would definitely recommend that for anyone looking to change their fuel pump.
And it was way easy to remove my bed to get to the fuel pump, would definitely recommend that for anyone looking to change their fuel pump.
Aug 10, 2014 | 12:07 PM
#43
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: washington state
Right on Hollywood, congratulations on figuring it out. How do adjust the AFM? Do you have to remove the plastic cover where the connector goes on top of the AFM? If my truck is running lean, is that something I can adjust to possibly fix my lean issue (if my issue isn't my fuel pump which I'm changing today)?
And it was way easy to remove my bed to get to the fuel pump, would definitely recommend that for anyone looking to change their fuel pump.
And it was way easy to remove my bed to get to the fuel pump, would definitely recommend that for anyone looking to change their fuel pump.
Aug 17, 2014 | 06:28 PM
#46
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
Any updates? When you checked your fuel pressure did you notice if the pressure dropped after turning off the car? The FSM says the pressure should remain above 21psi for at least 5 minutes after turning off your car. If it doesn't stay above 21psi the FSM says to check the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, and fuel pump. My pressure dropped immediately after turning off my truck, but I have replaced all 3 of those components so I'm stumped...
Aug 17, 2014 | 06:38 PM
#47
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,381
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From: San Francisco East Bay
The Fuel Pressure DAMPER has leaked for many of us, and will cause that pressure drop (though the usual symptom is fuel smell). I suggest using a brown paper towel (fuel is so clear that I have trouble seeing it on a white paper towel), and wipe the bottom of the FPD as soon as you switch off. Don't dawdle; fuel evaporates quickly.
Aug 17, 2014 | 11:50 PM
#48
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 62
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Thank you scope, checked my damper and doesn't seem to be leaking. No fuel smell, garauntee... I had my whole family smell for me, and no visible sign of leakage. I made sure to use all new crush washers/gaskets for fuel pipes x fuel rails and for damper and pressure regulator (which I replaced also after measuring too high fuel pressure) after installing reman'ed Denso injectors and torqued everything to spec. Damper didn't seem to be leaking before going in either, although the little pressure indication screw was out and sitting in the plastic cap which I just seated snug when I put the damper back. What else could be causing a drop in fuel pressure to zero immediately after turning off truck?
Aug 18, 2014 | 07:00 AM
#49
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,381
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From: San Francisco East Bay
Let's take a step back: why do you care? If you had leaky injectors (including the cold-start injector; was that on your list?), you should get a difficult start accompanied by a cloud of black smoke from the fuel left in the cylinders. If it's a leaking fuel pump check valve (inside the pump), you should just end up with a long crank time (just seconds), without the cloud of smoke.
Another possibility (in a long list) is a leaking connection TO the fuel pump, inside the tank. No fuel will leak out, so hard to catch.
Another possibility (in a long list) is a leaking connection TO the fuel pump, inside the tank. No fuel will leak out, so hard to catch.
Aug 21, 2014 | 09:28 AM
#50
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
Issue Discovered
I took my truck to a mechanic and it turns out that my timing belt was off by 1 tooth on the camshafts...I was so sure I had done it right and had everything lined up...He also told me after doing a compression leak down test that my cylinder #2 is misfiring...screw me...I had tested compression myself and all 6 cylinders tested good with an average of 145psi, but I was not able to perform the leak down test which the mechanic said shows that #2 cylinder is not holding pressure. What can I do at this point? Is it ok to drive my truck?
Aug 21, 2014 | 10:02 AM
#51
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 110
From: Northern Colorado
Depends on what's wrong. If it's an exhaust valve leaking, you risk burning the valve if you keep running it. It could be that it just needs a valve adjustment. As the valves wear, they don't close fully anymore.
If it's a ring leaking, it won't hurt much to run it. You might just see increasing loss of power and increasing oil consumption.
If your mechanic listened while he was performing the test, he could have told where the leak was by where the air was coming out. You might ask him if he has that information.
If it's a ring leaking, it won't hurt much to run it. You might just see increasing loss of power and increasing oil consumption.
If your mechanic listened while he was performing the test, he could have told where the leak was by where the air was coming out. You might ask him if he has that information.
Sep 28, 2014 | 11:52 PM
#52
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 36
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ground and sludge build up
okay guys, so i posted a thread on here a while back about a problem im having with my 4runner. i am still having the issue but now i have more information on it so maybe you guys can help. its a 1993 3vze automatic with 211,000 miles and cold air intake. 33 inch tires and a 5 inch lift. so this is whats happening, the truck is set at about 17btdc right now because its really the only way for me to drive it. when i set it to its factory 10btdc, its hard to start and stumbles and will have no acceleration what so ever. at 17btdc it starts fine but after driving a couple of miles, it falls flat on its face and even at full throttle, it takes a few seconds to do anything, it feels like im slowing down when i full throttle. as soon as i turn the truck off and turn it back on, it runs fine again for a couple of miles. i just replaced the plenum gasket and pcv, dist, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, wires and throttle body gasket and adjusted the tps. it helped some but its still failing on me. i checked for vacuum leaks and found none. i did a fuel pressure check and it read normal at 17btdc but when i changed to 10btdc the needle would bounce really fast between 35 and 40 psi. the pump does make a screeching noise but pressure seems fine so i really cant decide what this is. its also not throwing any codes.
Nov 13, 2017 | 02:49 PM
#54
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
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From: FAR West Texas
Love my Yota - don't like the ghosts
There are so many posts/threads with very similar problems with the 1993 4runner 3vz-e
All have changed numerous parts, sensors - I haven't found a thread that ends with 'I finally found the problem'
Mine is in a state of - maybe the O2, TPS, ECU (will it run the same with the ECU Fuse pulled?, mine does)
I asked the local dealer about a diagnostic to pinpoint the problem, but for a 'starts at $190.00' quote and q&a's ending in no guarantees they will isolate the problem - I thought I might just buy an OBD Reader for an extra $100. I plan on owning this beasty for a while
Nothing like a truck that keeps you busy
p.s. I had a hard time believing how many connectors I've found with wires broken to 2 or 3 strands
There are so many posts/threads with very similar problems with the 1993 4runner 3vz-e
All have changed numerous parts, sensors - I haven't found a thread that ends with 'I finally found the problem'
Mine is in a state of - maybe the O2, TPS, ECU (will it run the same with the ECU Fuse pulled?, mine does)
I asked the local dealer about a diagnostic to pinpoint the problem, but for a 'starts at $190.00' quote and q&a's ending in no guarantees they will isolate the problem - I thought I might just buy an OBD Reader for an extra $100. I plan on owning this beasty for a while
Nothing like a truck that keeps you busy
p.s. I had a hard time believing how many connectors I've found with wires broken to 2 or 3 strands
Nov 13, 2017 | 04:08 PM
#55
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,381
Likes: 873
From: San Francisco East Bay
Hmmm. Joined a year ago, posted 13 times, found "many" posts/threads not to your liking ....
But you're still talking about buying an OBD reader for $100. (Or is that extra to $190 => $290?)
The OBD reader you need is VERY expensive. Here's the best you can get: https://www.staples.com/Staples-Jumb...product_525923 (you only need one).
And before anyone else tells you, RTFM.
http://web.archive.org/web/201211190...85diagnosi.pdf
But you're still talking about buying an OBD reader for $100. (Or is that extra to $190 => $290?)
The OBD reader you need is VERY expensive. Here's the best you can get: https://www.staples.com/Staples-Jumb...product_525923 (you only need one).
And before anyone else tells you, RTFM.
http://web.archive.org/web/201211190...85diagnosi.pdf
Nov 14, 2017 | 06:25 PM
#56
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: FAR West Texas
Very funny on the OBD Scope103, and .... gosh, I never thought about jumping the pins and counting the flashes 
I have received some excellent advice from some truly helpful people, and I have read more than a few threads where someone thought they had to respond in the opposite way.
I feel so enlightened by your wit, and wisdom.
I have received some excellent advice from some truly helpful people, and I have read more than a few threads where someone thought they had to respond in the opposite way.
I feel so enlightened by your wit, and wisdom.
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