Check your valve lash before the heads are mounted as a just in case measure.

Here is an illustration for you on where all the gaskets go.

 

^^^^good job!!!

 

In and out of the machine shop was around $600.

Thanks everyone for the replies, and thank you for the gasket pic! That will come in handy!

 

So, Im in the middle of putting my passenger side cam back in place along with bearing caps and seals when I realize.. I dont believe I recieved a 'camshaft housing plug' aka the rear cap that seals the cam. Note picture below


That is a picture of my old one. Is this a part that I can reuse? Obviously I need to give it a good cleaning, but can I just use it again? I dont know if Dallas Toyota missed it, but maybe its just not included in the gasket kit which is odd since you have to pull the cams to get the head bolts out. Input?

Edit: And while we are on the topic of these things.. Do you use any RTV on the front or rear seals/caps?

 

I purchased them separately because they did not come with the "valve grind" gasket set. The old ones are hard as rocks, the new ones are more supple.

 

You are right about that. They are feeling pretty solid and I think I agree. It would be a good idea to get new ones. Last thing I want to do is put it all back together to find out these things leak..

 

Results from WitchHunter:


Glad I had this done.

 

yes indeed.....you definitely had one that wanted to betray your hard work

 

I wonder if they would do my BMW injectors.

 

Check the site. Im pretty sure that he lists which ones he does and does not do.

 

did you do the Cold Start Injector?

 

Ah damn! No I didnt. You think it will be an issue since the other 6 are fine now?

On another note, finally got back to working on it again, was torquing down the cam bearing cap bolts and 2 stripped. After doing some searching it looks like we are going to be running to the store to get a helicoil setup. Argh.

 

maybe research what exactly the cold start injector does....i honestly have no clue except that it has to do with fuel....likewise, at least that part is easily accessible if there is an issue....unlike the injectors.

oh dear....about the helicoil.......ouch.

 

I wouldn't worry about the CSI, it should only be a factor during start up. Mine went bad once and sprayed continuously which made the truck run crazy rich and it wouldn't idle. If that happens to you at some point, send it off the Witchhunter then.

 

Thanks for the input. So Im kinda stuck with this whole helicoil thing. I drilled it out and am attempting to tap it but after about about 1/4 of an inch, the whole cylinder starts spinning. Its the little collar that sticks up from the bolt hole for the bearing cap. What do I do? I cant seem to get far enough to then screw in the helicoil.

 

I've never had one strip; what were you torquing them to?

That looks like a slippery problem. Maybe have the shop retap it for you?

 

when I did that to mine, I took that sleeve out, the threads should be in the head. But it might be different on the 3.0. When I was done putting the helicoil in, I put the sleeve back in.

 

Im going to have to give that a go! You just grip and rip to get them out? Anyone know for sure that this is okay to do on the 3.0?

 

Little update!

So the power is back on (it was a little windy up here last night!) and with a better attitude and some hope (thanks again xxxtreme) we went out there and managed to pull the little sleeves out. The threads for the bolts that hold down the bearing caps are in fact in the head. Just FYI to anyone else looking to do this, the bolt is a M8-1.25 and the drill bit needed was a 21/64.

 

don't feel bad RedYota91, I had to do this on a brand new head from EB after some of the threads stripped on me before I got to final torque.