1990 22re brake issue
04-15-2018, 06:35 AM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Brake pads are designed to have a flat pad surface contacting a flat rotor surface, if you put old pads on old rotors and the grooves don't match (even those not visible to the naked eye) you will not get very good braking power until they wear into each other. Maybe this is part of your problem, you may have only part of the pad contacting the rotor. this is why it is always best to resurface or replace the brake rotors and use new pads (even then there will be some break in before you get the full braking power). Don't do a brake job half way... safety first.
Have you driven this or is all of this testing going on in your driveway?
Have you driven this or is all of this testing going on in your driveway?
1. Bench bleed the master on the bench
2. Bleed in the proper order in the FSM with the LSPV being last.
3. Adjust the rear drums and LSPV
once I do this I can get back with eveyone on how it goes. I appreciate the responses to the problem.
04-15-2018, 06:56 AM
#22
Registered User
If you really are getting zero braking at the front but you are getting fluid out of the bleeders you truly have a mystery on your hands. I don't feel like we are getting the whole story though and some of your statements are very cryptic. my best recommendation at this point would be to replace the brake hoses, loosen the parking brake, adjust the rear shoes and then readjust the parking brake, bleed the master cylinder (tap on the side several times, it helps), new pads and rotors and try again.
Just to be sure, are we talking about NEW calipers, hardlines and master cylinders or just new to you?
04-15-2018, 07:05 AM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
So, do you need a prybar to rotate your wheels all the time?
If you really are getting zero braking at the front but you are getting fluid out of the bleeders you truly have a mystery on your hands. I don't feel like we are getting the whole story though and some of your statements are very cryptic. my best recommendation at this point would be to replace the brake hoses, loosen the parking brake, adjust the rear shoes and then readjust the parking brake, bleed the master cylinder (tap on the side several times, it helps), new pads and rotors and try again.
Just to be sure, are we talking about NEW calipers, hardlines and master cylinders or just new to you?
If you really are getting zero braking at the front but you are getting fluid out of the bleeders you truly have a mystery on your hands. I don't feel like we are getting the whole story though and some of your statements are very cryptic. my best recommendation at this point would be to replace the brake hoses, loosen the parking brake, adjust the rear shoes and then readjust the parking brake, bleed the master cylinder (tap on the side several times, it helps), new pads and rotors and try again.
Just to be sure, are we talking about NEW calipers, hardlines and master cylinders or just new to you?
04-15-2018, 07:14 AM
#24
Registered User
brand new Out of the box brake calipers on the front, brand new hardlines. I’m really not sure what you want me to say concerning the full story, I am trying my best to relay what is going on. I understand that it is confusing to have fluid and no brake action, that’s entirely why it has been to another independent shop that basically told me, “we don’t know”
You need to be sure you have no leaks and no air, one thing you could do is to plug either the front or the rear line (or start with both) at the master cylinder and troubleshoot one set at a time.
When I suggested having a helper press the brake pedal while you checked the front brakes you made it sound like you were getting some application of the front brakes by saying you needed a prybar to rotate them. Is this the case? can you spin the front tires by hand when the brake is released and then you need leverage when the brake is applied?
Last edited by akwheeler; 04-15-2018 at 07:15 AM.
04-15-2018, 07:25 AM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
I wish I could check this out in person, I feel the need to know and I think I could help...
You need to be sure you have no leaks and no air, one thing you could do is to plug either the front or the rear line (or start with both) at the master cylinder and troubleshoot one set at a time.
When I suggested having a helper press the brake pedal while you checked the front brakes you made it sound like you were getting some application of the front brakes by saying you needed a prybar to rotate them. Is this the case? can you spin the front tires by hand when the brake is released and then you need leverage when the brake is applied?
You need to be sure you have no leaks and no air, one thing you could do is to plug either the front or the rear line (or start with both) at the master cylinder and troubleshoot one set at a time.
When I suggested having a helper press the brake pedal while you checked the front brakes you made it sound like you were getting some application of the front brakes by saying you needed a prybar to rotate them. Is this the case? can you spin the front tires by hand when the brake is released and then you need leverage when the brake is applied?
04-15-2018, 07:45 AM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
yes definetly good advice, but I can reliably tell you that there is absolute zero action in the front, not a little absolutely zero. ...
1. Bench bleed the master on the bench
2. Bleed in the proper order in the FSM with the LSPV being last.
3. Adjust the rear drums and LSPV ...
I know you've looked at a lot of stuff, but what I'm hearing is that there is fluid going to the new calipers, they move a little, the pedal gets hard, and then the calipers stop before the pads make any (reasonable) contact with the rotors. So either the pads are jammed sufficiently to overcome the caliper pressure, or there really isn't fluid being pumped to the calipers with pressure, and what you're seeing is (basically) leakage.
04-15-2018, 07:48 AM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
As I said, "no" braking (and hard pedal) is very unlikely to be a bleeding issue. If you have air in the system someplace, you get a "spongy" pedal, and at least some braking by stepping hard on the spongy pedal.
I know you've looked at a lot of stuff, but what I'm hearing is that there is fluid going to the new calipers, they move a little, the pedal gets hard, and then the calipers stop before the pads make any (reasonable) contact with the rotors. So either the pads are jammed sufficiently to overcome the caliper pressure, or there really isn't fluid being pumped to the calipers with pressure, and what you're seeing is (basically) leakage.
I know you've looked at a lot of stuff, but what I'm hearing is that there is fluid going to the new calipers, they move a little, the pedal gets hard, and then the calipers stop before the pads make any (reasonable) contact with the rotors. So either the pads are jammed sufficiently to overcome the caliper pressure, or there really isn't fluid being pumped to the calipers with pressure, and what you're seeing is (basically) leakage.
04-15-2018, 10:37 AM
#28
Registered User
I haven't seen much mention here about the rear brakes, before you put pressure to it pull your rear drums and inspect for leaks from the wheel cylinders as well as the condition of the shoes/drums/springs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GingerSnap
General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics
1
06-14-2012 01:48 AM
tonetti
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
5
01-21-2011 03:19 PM
BCtoyota
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
11
03-07-2007 01:39 PM
