1986 questions
#1
1986 questions
I am looking at a 4x4 1986 Toyota pick up. Body is straight, no rust and interior is decent. I haven't driven it yet but have seen it. Boots on the front transaxles are ripped, tcase leaks at the seal, rear shocks are rusted and the stering pump leaks. All fairly easy fixes. Other than the rear shocks there is no other rust. Which is rare in my area. The story is it came from Alabama but has been titled here in MO.
They are asking 3k but can be flexible. Seems like allot but a 30 year old vehicle. But a rust free vehicle that old is rare in my area. I am curious how just the rear shocks could be rusty and nothing else.
What should I look for on this truck? I saw it parked on the way home for work and it wasn't for sale. I left a note saying I was interested. The owner did call me back. I did take the time to crawl underneath it without the owner having a chance to clean things up.
Supposedly it has a 92 motor carbonated with 117k on it and a newer transmission. He claims to have the receipts to prove this. The fluid leaking out of the steering pump and tcase is VERY clean.
They are asking 3k but can be flexible. Seems like allot but a 30 year old vehicle. But a rust free vehicle that old is rare in my area. I am curious how just the rear shocks could be rusty and nothing else.
What should I look for on this truck? I saw it parked on the way home for work and it wasn't for sale. I left a note saying I was interested. The owner did call me back. I did take the time to crawl underneath it without the owner having a chance to clean things up.
Supposedly it has a 92 motor carbonated with 117k on it and a newer transmission. He claims to have the receipts to prove this. The fluid leaking out of the steering pump and tcase is VERY clean.
Last edited by MOguy; Jul 17, 2016 at 05:25 AM.
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Just how many Missouri winters has it seen ??
Shocks very well might have been on another vehicle and people do strange things .
Did you look real close that the frame does not have fresh under coating ??
Over old Rust ??
Why not have signs on the truck if it was for sale.
The torn CV axle boots and leaking power steering pump plus transfer case to me lower the price quite a bit .
Then I have enough Toyota 4x4`s I don`t need anymore.
Take it for a ride 4 high and low work like they should no strange vibrations or sounds or smells
Check the brakes and Suspension best you can.
Engine compartment Belts and Hoses look good .
It can be very easy to get $1000.00 in parts catching up in neglected Maintenance with no major problems .
I start at the ground and work up .
Try not to let the new vehicle Lust over come you it happens to us all.
Shocks very well might have been on another vehicle and people do strange things .
Did you look real close that the frame does not have fresh under coating ??
Over old Rust ??
Why not have signs on the truck if it was for sale.
The torn CV axle boots and leaking power steering pump plus transfer case to me lower the price quite a bit .
Then I have enough Toyota 4x4`s I don`t need anymore.
Take it for a ride 4 high and low work like they should no strange vibrations or sounds or smells
Check the brakes and Suspension best you can.
Engine compartment Belts and Hoses look good .
It can be very easy to get $1000.00 in parts catching up in neglected Maintenance with no major problems .
I start at the ground and work up .
Try not to let the new vehicle Lust over come you it happens to us all.
#3
Just how many Missouri winters has it seen ??
Shocks very well might have been on another vehicle and people do strange things .
Did you look real close that the frame does not have fresh under coating ??
Over old Rust ??
Why not have signs on the truck if it was for sale.
The torn CV axle boots and leaking power steering pump plus transfer case to me lower the price quite a bit .
Then I have enough Toyota 4x4`s I don`t need anymore.
Take it for a ride 4 high and low work like they should no strange vibrations or sounds or smells
Check the brakes and Suspension best you can.
Engine compartment Belts and Hoses look good .
It can be very easy to get $1000.00 in parts catching up in neglected Maintenance with no major problems .
I start at the ground and work up .
Try not to let the new vehicle Lust over come you it happens to us all.
Shocks very well might have been on another vehicle and people do strange things .
Did you look real close that the frame does not have fresh under coating ??
Over old Rust ??
Why not have signs on the truck if it was for sale.
The torn CV axle boots and leaking power steering pump plus transfer case to me lower the price quite a bit .
Then I have enough Toyota 4x4`s I don`t need anymore.
Take it for a ride 4 high and low work like they should no strange vibrations or sounds or smells
Check the brakes and Suspension best you can.
Engine compartment Belts and Hoses look good .
It can be very easy to get $1000.00 in parts catching up in neglected Maintenance with no major problems .
I start at the ground and work up .
Try not to let the new vehicle Lust over come you it happens to us all.

The frame doesn't seem to have any undercoating. Rust is my biggest concern. He said the motor was changed out recent so if the belts and hoses aren't new it will raise some concerns.
As far as a suspension I am a jeep guy and used to straight axles. I do have a 200 4runner but other than brakes, tires and oil changes in haven't had to touched it.
It will be for my boy, he will pay for most of it. We have a 79 chevy 4x4 1 ton we have been working on. The plan is to work on both and sell one.
The toyota seems a better fit for him.
Last edited by MOguy; Jul 17, 2016 at 08:43 AM.
#4
i grew up in the midwest, it's hard to believe that anything back there is rust-free... alabama gets a lot of rain i think, are you sure that it isn't bondo and paint over cancer? the door pillars around the windshield will get bubbly, on the underneath side where the door seal is, i have that with my california 4runner.
if it's original paint, and truly clean and straight, it'll definitely be worth more, especially back there.
if it's original paint, and truly clean and straight, it'll definitely be worth more, especially back there.
#5
i grew up in the midwest, it's hard to believe that anything back there is rust-free... alabama gets a lot of rain i think, are you sure that it isn't bondo and paint over cancer? the door pillars around the windshield will get bubbly, on the underneath side where the door seal is, i have that with my california 4runner.
if it's original paint, and truly clean and straight, it'll definitely be worth more, especially back there.
if it's original paint, and truly clean and straight, it'll definitely be worth more, especially back there.
#6
Here in southern Missouri, you can find trucks with frames in descent shape. It is still a 30 year old truck and I would expect to spend a thousand more on any used truck. May sound high but getting it mechanically caught up in maintenance. Fluids, tires, suspension, tuneup, belts, hoses,shocks... It adds up.
If you are in the St. Louis or KC area, I would go the extra distance to get a rust free truck. We still have rust but nothing compared to what it is like up there.
If you are in the St. Louis or KC area, I would go the extra distance to get a rust free truck. We still have rust but nothing compared to what it is like up there.
#7
Take some pictures so we can see what you see.
Definitely check out what everyone else has mentioned above.
In the end, the truck is only worth what you are willing to pay for it.
Good luck!
Definitely check out what everyone else has mentioned above.
In the end, the truck is only worth what you are willing to pay for it.
Good luck!
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#8
Thanks for the responses. I do have a few more questions.
The outer boots on the CV joint are ripped on the one I am looking at today. If I turn the truck hard right or hard left and hear no noise can I assume the joints are still good. Is there a way to "clean out the joints" blow air through it or something and repack them? Are there boots that I can just rap around the joint and reclamp. Shafts aren't that expensive. From what I can tell to replace them I unbolt them at the diff, disconnect the suspension and maybe they would drop out? I would assume since the boots are already torn there is a very good chance crap got in there and even if the joints are good now they may not be good for long.
Another question. Is the 4wd vacuum actuated?
On my Dana 60 on my one ton I turn the hubs to lock and I feel them push in. I have taken apart and worked on the Spicer hubs on my old one ton, do these hubs work the same way?
The trans case leaks where it mounts to the transmission. Is it as easy and unmounting it from the trans and a new seal or is there more to it?
The outer boots on the CV joint are ripped on the one I am looking at today. If I turn the truck hard right or hard left and hear no noise can I assume the joints are still good. Is there a way to "clean out the joints" blow air through it or something and repack them? Are there boots that I can just rap around the joint and reclamp. Shafts aren't that expensive. From what I can tell to replace them I unbolt them at the diff, disconnect the suspension and maybe they would drop out? I would assume since the boots are already torn there is a very good chance crap got in there and even if the joints are good now they may not be good for long.
Another question. Is the 4wd vacuum actuated?
On my Dana 60 on my one ton I turn the hubs to lock and I feel them push in. I have taken apart and worked on the Spicer hubs on my old one ton, do these hubs work the same way?
The trans case leaks where it mounts to the transmission. Is it as easy and unmounting it from the trans and a new seal or is there more to it?
Last edited by MOguy; Jul 18, 2016 at 05:27 AM.
#10
There is a trick to getting the shafts out to replace the shaft or boots. I would replace the shaft if it were me. Seems like is was $60 per shaft if I recall right on my last job. Not to bad to do. There is a write up on here some where that shows how to do it. Been a while since I have done one.
I did not think your generation of truck had vacuum operated 4 wheel drive. Usually just the hub and transfer case. The newer trucks did have vacuum operation.
I have heard of people dropping just the transfer case. I prefer to pull the transmission and stand it on its end and drop the transfer case into place as per the factory service manual. I had a transfer case that I could not remove with it laying on the floor, stood the transmission on its end and it lifted right off. Not sure what was holding it together and would not release. I know separating the transfer case has been done with the transmission still in the truck, I just have never done it that way. Nice looking truck you have.
I did not think your generation of truck had vacuum operated 4 wheel drive. Usually just the hub and transfer case. The newer trucks did have vacuum operation.
I have heard of people dropping just the transfer case. I prefer to pull the transmission and stand it on its end and drop the transfer case into place as per the factory service manual. I had a transfer case that I could not remove with it laying on the floor, stood the transmission on its end and it lifted right off. Not sure what was holding it together and would not release. I know separating the transfer case has been done with the transmission still in the truck, I just have never done it that way. Nice looking truck you have.
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