chris514scott

That was a really good idea on drilling the pulley out. I didn't do that I just put the pulley on and tightened it down to the taper. I did stick the pulley a little to far out but I just bent the alt bracket to adjust for that. I may go your route if I ever have to replace it (I know I will since its a duralast)

I to would like to look for a smaller pulley though. anyone have any ideas on this???

dixiemuddtoy

Ok guys, I swapped out the Alternator for a brand new duralast unit and got a hella huge Deka Deep cycle / 1000 CCA battery. I was thinking this would solve EVERYthing, however I am running into a few problems. I know this is a lot of questions, so please bear with me...

The headlights flicker as the alternator turns faster, and I am not sure why. I can tell that certain electrical items still place major drain on the volt meter in the cab.

My impression is that maybe the ground wire is not big enough off the battery---could this be the case? Also as a side note, I ran the alternator power cable DIRECTLY to the battery, and then replaced the fusible link wire from the factory toyota fuse block with a 175A link and solid cable, and ran it directly to the battery separate from the alternator wire. Could this arise a problem with flickering lights, etc?

Also, my second guess would be that maybe the factory ground for the alternator (I'm assuming in the factory toyota wiring harness) may not be big enough for the new 120A alternator. Could this be the case? If so, which prong / wire in the wiring harness does the ground for the alternator, and would it be possible to splice in a much larger ground and just run it to the frame?

Also, does the battery need to be ground to the frame, or to the engine block? Mine is currently ground to the engine block. I am not against getting a second ground and going to the frame.

Any knowledgeable electrical guys got some input that could be of use?! I got a big wheeling trip this weekend, and could use some help FAST!!!

ToyoTech559

the battery needs a ground to the body. the body needs a ground cable to the engine. if your using factory size cables, you should be fine. even tho its a 120amp alternator, it doesnt output its max and only when needed. at idle, it should only be putting out 30amps and less if the battery is fully charged already

dixiemuddtoy

I do have a good bit of draw on the electronics...an electric fan, and a defect in my head lights that make me run with brights on all the time until i can fix them...its' like when the lights flicker, i can see the volts go up and down on the volt meter. from 'really high' to 'normal high', if that makes sense. And I have wired up 55w fog lights for turn signals...for some reason, the turn signals really kill the voltage when flashing...but they don't at all when hazards are on?!?

really strange issues going on....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dixie, Toyo is far more apt than I am in regard to electical 101-102 and through the 1,000,003, most likely! hahaha... However, as he mentioned, you need to have the battery ground wire running to the block AND the chassis(It runs a few inches to the fender wall, just in front of the Fusible link box...... And there SHOULD DEFINITELY be a threaded hole for it, right there. The ground cable you have off the battery should already have 2 wires, a 4-6AWG wire and the 10-14AWG smaller wire coming right out of the battery ground terminal, running to the fender wall.

Far as the wiring directly to the fusible link box, etc.,.. not sure. However, I do know that the ground that comes out of the harness and bolts, on mine at least, to one of the Power Steering Bracket-to-Head Bolts/bracket, is plenty for many guys, even running the GM 1 wire conversion. I've read plenty of threads with that mod where they are fully satisfied with the current/sharing no signs of flickering, etc. Something either within your system or possibly how you've now got things wired could likely be causing the problem. I would run my multi-meter on everything involved, including any grounds, checking for current/resistance/amperage.

It looks as if you have lots of accent lights/rock lights, too, right Dixie?

I know someone like you, Toyo, or Ian or RB, can pin this down better than I could.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Here's a pic of where, at least on mine, the second ground terminal wire goes to, in the top of the picture, just around the middle, on the fender wall... There is a threaded hole there, original toyota bolt.



Also, ........ That fusible link box is just that, a fusible link.. BUT, as I remember it being explained to me(probably very poorly explained by myself, haha)..... The BARS in that 80A portion in that box.... those are very important and are routed from the battery to that BAR, via the fusible link wire, ...which 'BRINGS HOT 12V' to the entire chassis electrical, after it's a complete circuit including the alternator/ and also serves in charging the battery once the cycle is complete........???? haha... Hey, I'm trying. I just know that many people remove that 10AWG factory wire and run a 4AWG wire, often, to power the whole system. I would assume this would help in keeping the full capability of current flowing back to the battery from the Alternator at the quickest rate possible, no?

dixiemuddtoy

Chefyota, thanks for the insight...

in looking back to my recent engine rebuild, i did notice at least 2 of the 4 engine grounds were not connected. I remember a ground-looking wire on the back of the head going to nothing, because it was broken...lol...I'm sure hooking that back to something on the firewall would help. I also know the smaller batt-to-body ground wire is stripped as well...so I will be making one of those too.

I also found a page that covers all the grounds, and I need to make sure the alt wiring harness ground that goes to the PS is connected...that could be where my issues are too.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

The one on the back of the head? Also has a bolt hole right behind it on the firewall. That is often forgotten as people try to lift up the head and take it off... Only to drop the head back down as it's ripped out of their hands, haha... OR, it just rips in half, maybe? Whatcha think? Coulda happened.

Yeah, track all that stuff down and go get em!

dixiemuddtoy

Okay, I'm pretty sure the problem is mostly solved. I think the alternator's problem was that it didn't have enough ground to serve as 'exhaust', per say, to allow for all the extra juice coming in (that, and I run a ˟˟˟˟ ton of electrical accessories...haha). Switching to a 2ga batt-to-frame (at the engine mount location), then running a 4ga block-to-frame, and fixing the head ground with a 4ga head-to-body caused the fluctuations of the volt meter and coincidental headlight flashing to cease.

Still need to verify the alt's direct ground to the PS pully, or make another directly to body though...but for now, it's running MUCH better. Seeing as how I finished at 2am, I have a big trip at Durhamtown later today that the truck is running in.

Thanks for all the insight guys, hope this will help anyone that has shared this dilemma with their modifications.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOOT! HAVE FUN! haha.

MortonPhotographic

Hey Chef!--sorry I'm just replying to your hello above, but I just got back to this thread.

I have been thinking about the pulley issue and how the OP just mounted his to the taper of the alternator shaft, even though the pulley ID mount is too small... I love this alternator idea, but I think mounting the factory pulley with no mods, and bending the upper alternator mounting bracket is not the best idea.

As for the pulley, either the factory Toyota pulley should be drilled out, being careful to keep the hole centered, or a new pulley should be used. If you are getting a new pulley anyway, it would be great to get a smaller pulley to keep the alternator at it's ideal RPM. The outer diameter of the Jag pulley it comes with would be ideal. (all this was said above, I am just recaping)

Why? First, the pulley does not line up with the other pulleys in the system. Secondly, there has to be a very small contact point between the edge of the pulley, and the tappered section of the alternator shaft. I just can't see this as being good, and I suspect it will cause alignment/balance issues like it did for the OP with the first alternator.

As for beding the bracket (upper tension bracket), I can't see how that will help align the pulley as the bottom bracket can't allow for the alternator to move at all (except to rotate and tighten the belt).

Ultimately, the Jaguar XJ6 alternator swap should be a direct replacement of the alternator, no mods, with the exception of a drilled out or new pulley.

Just my thoughts on the what we have all been saying--I'm not at all trying to take away from the great post and idea!

RAD4Runner

Thank you very much for this detailed write-up! I'm having a problem with my alternator after cleaning my engine. Charge light and brake light lighting up.
If it doesn't go away after a couple of days (to allaw things to dry thoroughly) the XJ6 Jag is surely the way to go.
Happy Holidays!

rworegon

Denso 210-0406 is the equivalent alt for the Jag.

paynemw

BUMP!!! yes!

paynemw

So since I've put this alternator in, I've had issues with around 14.5V-15.5 volts at idle to high idle. I have also burnt up two coils. Is there a voltage regulator on the JAG alternator? I read somewhere that the OEM voltage regulator for 87 22R pickups was inside the alternator, but I need to find a way to integrate one or ensure the jag has one and get it replaced. Can someone chime in? At this rate I'll be running through a battery and coil every few months, and I want to fix the cause of the problem and not the problem. Thanks.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dang! Sorry to hear man! I'm glad I bookmarked this... I'm not sure on adding an external regulator but I'm sure you can figure it out... I will try to look into that a little bit when I can because I am about to upgrade my alternator. Just want to be sure I get something that is it going to fry anything... Have the same coil for 27 years.... Stuff like you're going through kinda freaks me out, but I'm sure there is a remedy. Best wishes man!

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I'm considering doing this upgrade but have read about some electrical complications from others that have done this. I spent some time on the phone this morning with Charlie at All Charged Up in Anderson, SC -- awesome guy!!! He figured out the issue and told me that it didn't make sense for me to buy from him since I live in Oregon.

Here's what he shared:
-Both the Jag and Toy alternator share the same Denso plug, however the terminals are wired differently. Therefore, it is not truly plug and play as is.
-He said that if you undo the back cover and swap in the Toy's regulator (which contains the harness plug), you will end up with the correct regulator and correct wiring. Then it will be plug and play.

Now that this is cleared up, I'm going to try this in the next few weeks.

And if you ever have a chance to send some business Charlie's way, please do!

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Great research! Please follow up if you get it to work. The Jag alt upgrade will be a cool option and a good alternative to the GM swap.

jcm151

Okay guys. I have a 1982 22r, that year alt has a square plug, not the denso round plug. I am wondering if I can cut my alt harness plug off, rewire in a alt lead repair harness with the round denso plug, (like the 85 and ups come with) and then plug and play it into the JAG alt that bolts in? If I can does anyone have a wiring diagram for the jag alt? I read previously that some of the jag terminals on the actual alt are not correct for the toyota plugs? Is the alt marked? so I can match my wires to the correct terminals?

Dirt Driver

You might be able to pop the terminals out of your original plug and slip them into the newer one. Easier, cleaner, more durable, and no cutting.