vacumm lines 84 22r
#2
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Fig. 2: Emission system component layout and vacuum diagram-1984 22R engine (Federal and Canada)
see if that helps, if not, look thru here:
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d80189070.jsp
Could also try your local library and take some photo copies of a chiltons if they have them.
see if that helps, if not, look thru here:
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d80189070.jsp
Could also try your local library and take some photo copies of a chiltons if they have them.
Last edited by EWAYota; 09-27-2006 at 01:49 PM.
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I was looking at the pic and something just didn't look right. my 84 dosn't have an "AS REED VALVE" I looked at where it should be and it looks as if part of the manifold casting has been ground off and there is a plug in an opening next to it. I've been haveing carb issues since I got the truck a few months ago but figured it was the "BVSV for the AAP" the top vac port is broken off and pluged with a screw by the PO. Do I need this reed valve thing what dose it do?
#5
Don't need it unless you want to pass smog.
A friend's off-road truck runs great without it. The AS reed vavle provides fresh air to the exhaust to add oxygen for the catalytic converter. I made the blanking plates for the AS and EGR systems that were removed from his rig.
A friend's off-road truck runs great without it. The AS reed vavle provides fresh air to the exhaust to add oxygen for the catalytic converter. I made the blanking plates for the AS and EGR systems that were removed from his rig.
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Thanks I went poking around to see where the other hoses for it went and found a vac diafram that has no line to it. it is not shown in the pic. It is on the passenger side of the carb faceing the fender it looks just like the one for the choke but a little bigger and is hooked into the throttle linkage some how. Any idea what that is.
#7
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Don't need it unless you want to pass smog.
A friend's off-road truck runs great without it. The AS reed vavle provides fresh air to the exhaust to add oxygen for the catalytic converter. I made the blanking plates for the AS and EGR systems that were removed from his rig.
A friend's off-road truck runs great without it. The AS reed vavle provides fresh air to the exhaust to add oxygen for the catalytic converter. I made the blanking plates for the AS and EGR systems that were removed from his rig.
Hey, I was just thinking about you - rebuilding my engine here and painting everything red - can't help but to be copy cat
Love the sig
ON TOPIC -
this is for 1985's but IIRC its pretty much the same except the fuel injected part.
http://duke.worldofchiropractic.com/...tatruckfsm.pdf
Also down at autozone they have silicone vacume line kits for only $15 and come in lots of colors - I recently did red to copy 4crawler
but new lines are nice, and the silicone is infinitybillion times nicer that regular ones.
Last edited by phorunninduke; 10-20-2006 at 10:56 AM.
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I know the BVSV is broken and needs replacing $86 from the dealer. What I don't know is the whole reed/ EGR thing what do I need to plug? I've been working on the body and frame and just started the tuneing and it's giving me problems. The truck has a after mkt header and a hiflo cat but it's been running way rich since I got it. Could the cat be cloged and that is whats screwing me up.I plan on rerouting the pipes to get them up and out of harmes way should I pull the cat. The PO had pluged and rerouted alot of the vac hoses so I tried to restore them to OEM but it seems to run worse. I'm kind of at a lose as to what I do next. Any input would be great.
#9
The cat isn't making it run rich and probably isn't clogged.
you have 2 choices. Fix everything to make it run STOCK again, or if we're talking trail truck, de-smog.
Either way:
check/replace the aux. and regular excellerator pump diaphrams. I bet the excellerator pump diapham is blown causing the rich mix.
check the float level too. If it is too high, it'll run rich too. Friend's truck is set at the bottom of the V's for less flooding on off-road angles.
The haynes manual shows several vac. systems. Take a look at the Canadian 4x4. That is about as basic as you can get.
Here is more detail on what we did to a friend's trail only truck:
I kinda saw that there are 2 catagories of stuff related to all those vac. lines.
Smog stuff and drivability stuff.
We ditched a lot of it. The hard lines that run under the intake and around the front of the engine = gone.
Stock air cleaner, gone. There goes all the thermally controlled air source stuff.
The stuff on the fender? gone. The multi-vac. port fitting on the intake? gone. replaced with a plug.
HAC= sorta gone. This truck lives above 5,000 feet. The controls are all gone. I left the air bleed port open and T'd the second (closer to engine) distritubor advance to the regular advance diaphram line and hooked those to a port on the carb that had manifold vac. (used a vac. meter)
The EGR system= gone. Blank plates on the exhaust and intake. controls removed too.
The AS system (the read valves and stuff)= gone. Blank plate on the exhaust manifold. controls gone.
The Evap canisters front and rear = gone. Vent tank to Atmsphere. controls gone.
What is left:
Aux accelerator pump is connected to a thermally controlled valve. BSVD I guess. That is still intact for cold engine driveability.
The choke pull off system is intact. I think it is hooked to the other port on the thermally controlled vac. valve (BSVD?) too.
The A/C step up system is still intact.
Now if you didn't care how it ran cold, you could ditch the aux. accelerator pump and the choke pull off too I bet.
After the truck warmed up, we adjusted the idle mixture "duke boy" style by ear, RPM, and nose. A motorcyle guy played with the carb and showed me the hard to reach idle speed screw (not the one on the fast idle cam) we used that and my ol' RPM meter hooked to the provided plug that hangs by the coil to set the idle to spec.
Timing is by the book, plus some duke boy ear tuning. Valve adjustments were not checked, but I duke boy'd those as a spot check. Most were close enough by feel.
The owner reports the truck runs fantastic (after he cleared the goo out of the excellerator pump ports with a brill bit!) He has to feather the throttle to keep 'er running when nosed down on steep angles (His idea of steep is probably about 45 degrees)
you have 2 choices. Fix everything to make it run STOCK again, or if we're talking trail truck, de-smog.
Either way:
check/replace the aux. and regular excellerator pump diaphrams. I bet the excellerator pump diapham is blown causing the rich mix.
check the float level too. If it is too high, it'll run rich too. Friend's truck is set at the bottom of the V's for less flooding on off-road angles.
The haynes manual shows several vac. systems. Take a look at the Canadian 4x4. That is about as basic as you can get.
Here is more detail on what we did to a friend's trail only truck:
I kinda saw that there are 2 catagories of stuff related to all those vac. lines.
Smog stuff and drivability stuff.
We ditched a lot of it. The hard lines that run under the intake and around the front of the engine = gone.
Stock air cleaner, gone. There goes all the thermally controlled air source stuff.
The stuff on the fender? gone. The multi-vac. port fitting on the intake? gone. replaced with a plug.
HAC= sorta gone. This truck lives above 5,000 feet. The controls are all gone. I left the air bleed port open and T'd the second (closer to engine) distritubor advance to the regular advance diaphram line and hooked those to a port on the carb that had manifold vac. (used a vac. meter)
The EGR system= gone. Blank plates on the exhaust and intake. controls removed too.
The AS system (the read valves and stuff)= gone. Blank plate on the exhaust manifold. controls gone.
The Evap canisters front and rear = gone. Vent tank to Atmsphere. controls gone.
What is left:
Aux accelerator pump is connected to a thermally controlled valve. BSVD I guess. That is still intact for cold engine driveability.
The choke pull off system is intact. I think it is hooked to the other port on the thermally controlled vac. valve (BSVD?) too.
The A/C step up system is still intact.
Now if you didn't care how it ran cold, you could ditch the aux. accelerator pump and the choke pull off too I bet.
After the truck warmed up, we adjusted the idle mixture "duke boy" style by ear, RPM, and nose. A motorcyle guy played with the carb and showed me the hard to reach idle speed screw (not the one on the fast idle cam) we used that and my ol' RPM meter hooked to the provided plug that hangs by the coil to set the idle to spec.
Timing is by the book, plus some duke boy ear tuning. Valve adjustments were not checked, but I duke boy'd those as a spot check. Most were close enough by feel.
The owner reports the truck runs fantastic (after he cleared the goo out of the excellerator pump ports with a brill bit!) He has to feather the throttle to keep 'er running when nosed down on steep angles (His idea of steep is probably about 45 degrees)
Last edited by leiniesred; 10-20-2006 at 09:12 PM.
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I didn't think the cat was making it run rich but that because its so rich that it might be cloged and restricting the flow. The PO did some strange things to this truck so it hard to figure out what is right and what is F#$% up. My first inpulse is to get it back to stock and then work from there one step at a time checking the results as I change each thing to get it to where I feel its right. The problem is some things are missing and I don't want to buy them just to take them off later. Well at this point I'm going to take inventory of whats there and whats not and deside how to move on from here. thanks for the help. I'll keep you posted as I go and probably have more questions. Thanks again.
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OK I found a bad vac connection and rerouted some that were screwed up to bypass the EGR by the PO it seems to be OK after it heats up. I'll get the BVSV on Tuesday and that should fix that. What a pain in the ass but it seems to be good to go for now. Thanks!
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I dont mean to bump this but I was looking at this diagram because I am putting a new motor in my 84. I need to find out where the distributor vac lines go and in this diagram they kind of get lost by the charcoal canister hose. Can anybody clarify this for me.
Thanks
Thanks
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I know what you mean that messed me up the first time around. When I get home I'll post the routeing. I have a slightly different setup than that one mine had a resonator next to the reed valve I think it was Fed or Canada but the hard lines were stacked different.
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TONKA, sorry I didn't post when I got home. I stoped to pickup the bvsv and installed it. I thought that was the last thing to fix. I was wrong now it accelerates great but back fires out the muffler when you let off the gas and I'm not sure I have the lines right myself. Maybe someone could help both of us out with a picture of thier carb and vac lines?
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i have an 1987 22R 4x4 toyota truck with a 81-84 engine installed and the vacuum lines are crazy messed up. I haven't been able to match up a single vacuum diagram to it. Just below the accelrator pumper there are 4 vaccum lines that come out of a port and then right back into another one. Has anyone ever seen this?
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pictures
In the first pic is the switches that are on my fender well.
The second pic is that weird looking 4 vacuum line that I havent ever seen on a 22R.
The third pic is on the right side of the crab, every other vacuum thing right there has 4 lines where mine only has 3.
Any and all help is appreciated, this thing is about to drive me nuts
The second pic is that weird looking 4 vacuum line that I havent ever seen on a 22R.
The third pic is on the right side of the crab, every other vacuum thing right there has 4 lines where mine only has 3.
Any and all help is appreciated, this thing is about to drive me nuts
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