Anyone know how to test the blower/fan in the cab? I can't find the info in the fsm that I have. I have it out and here are the symptoms before taking it out. It seemed pretty weak when it was installed and would actually work better on medium than on hi. I'm just looking for some info on testing to find the issue, whether it is the motor or something else in the dash. thanks for any help.

I just added 12v to the actual motor and it seemed like it ran at pretty good speed and it didn't make any weird noises. At 12v is consumes roughly 3.3A. Anyone know on these numbers? Also any other tests that can be done would be great or if someone knows if there is info in the FSM (mine doesn't seem to have any, only on the A/C system).

 

Look at the blower resistor relay coils. Might be on the way out and cheap to replace.

:wabbit2:

 

I can`t help with the specs your asking about, but the most common thing to go bad is the resister for the fan motor. The resister is mounted next to the fan motor, pull it out and check it out. Also the fan switch can go bad, but its not that common for it to happen.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...lower+resistor

 

 

Just by reading the suggested thread, I would assume that it's not the resistor coils because it works better on medium than high. I'll check it tomorrow, but I'm thinking it is something else.

 

So the resistor coils are good. The glue on them is cracked, but the coils are fully intact. I didn't see the relay when taking the dash apart, but I will look some more. I will also take a look at the actual mechanical switch that you use to turn it up and down.

 

What year is it?

 

It is an 84 4runner.

 

on my 86 the relay is to the left of the glove box cavity. If you have the glove box out you should have very easy access to it. (assuming yours is the same) you can feel the relay click when you turn the heater on. if the heater works in lower modes then I would say the relay is good. could be the switch in the dash since it doesn't work well on high. the contacts could be corroded inside the switch. on mine the high setting is a direct 12v through the switch.(bypasses the resistor) yours is probably a 3 speed switch right?

 

Yeah, it is a 3 speed. My entire dash is apart b/c I had to remove the heater core, which is why I'm addressing these problems now. I'll take a closer look at it. Thanks.