theAuthority

pb blaster is terrible.

go with ATF and Acetone ... mix it up and let it sit overnight. best penetrator ever.

live4soccer7

I'll have to give it a shot.

Thanks. I'm going to work on it more this evening. I'll post up about the progress

theAuthority

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/penetra...arison-193496/

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

One other thing that often works wonders is to heat up the stud of the rod end (to the point the opposite end starts to smoke), than apply a candle to the bottom of the stud and let the heat wick the molten paraffin up into the joint. You can try to remove the rod end when the end is still hot and if that does not work, try it after it cools. And try tapping on the side of the arm where the rod end stud passes through. I also have found that putting on a puller, tightening it up and leaving it for a while with repeated re-tightening works also. Have use this to pull pitman arms off of steering boxes. I have a puller that broke on my first all-in-one-shot attempt, but I welded up the broken arm and then used it in the slow and steady approach and it has worked fine since then.

TinMan

ATF and Acetone....I'll have to give that a shot. I have some old stuff of both around and was wondering what I was going to do with them.

Might want to give 4crawlers way a try.

Another option would be to find a pick a part and get the TR and steering knuckle. Might be the cheapest way to replace them.

I have been using some stuff called "Freeze Off", you can get it at AutoZone. Picked up the first can when I first got my runner. You spray it on the nut or bolt for 10 seconds, then hit it with a bfh. I have yet to break a bolt using the stuff. I ran out working on the 87 one day, had some PB blaster, used it, and broke 4 bolts on the stabilizer bar. Went back to AZ and got some more freeze off, and have not had a problem. It must be filled with CO2 to freeze the nut. I dont know if it will work on your TRE, the threaded end and steering arm is much larger than anything I have tried it on.

Hope you get it soon.

Wardamneagle

You should be able to get a steering arm at a pick-n-pull for almost nothing. I see them on ebay sometimes. I would replace the Tie-rod with one from Budbuilt or Marlin with the Fzj80 tie-rod ends. They are much beefier than OEM.

TOYOTA 1

^ i dont think they wont fit in the factory steering arms. 99% sure, but not 100% lol

Spookee

Are you removing this to upgrade to high streee? If so remove the other side and throw it away. Use the puller to apply pulling pressure on the TRE while you are tring everything else. Thightin the puller till you see it flex. Then smak the end of the puller or the side of the J arm (im assuming that you are replacing the TRE) with a hammer while heating it. Then tightin it alittle more. Whatch for the ends of the puller slipping off the edge of the TRE. Good luck.

live4soccer7

yes, I'm replacing the tre's. No upgrades this go round. I did get them removed. The snow is suppose to fly thursday or wednesday night so I'm working double time on this thing. I've go the parts cleaned and ready for the POR 15. I will probably do a high steer when I get a lift, but that's out of the question for this year because I need the truck for winter and it is knockin on my back door.

I removed the tre (got the stabilizer off the tie rod by hitting it with a nut on the end of the stud, used 5-10 lb hammer) and then heated an Oxy Acetylene torch I was able to get from some one (map torch didn't work, guessing it was because it was heating too slowly) and then braced the thing on a jack and hit it with all the force I had in me. Thing came off.

The other side, I used the same hammer and hit it as hard as I possibly could about 5 times (on the knuckle arm, but perpendicular to the stud) and it knocked it loose. SOBs!!!! Finally conquered.

Finishing up the cleaning process and then it will all be painted and that one side will be assembled, then I will disassemble the other side and do it all over except I expect it to go twice as fast.

Etype R

Awesome news, glad you finally got it out!

Wardamneagle

Well I'm 100% sure that they will. This one is from Marlin and those are FZJ80 tie-rod ends.

live4soccer7

Are these the ones you are suggesting?

http://www.marlincrawler.com/steerin...s/tie-rod-ends

I already got some from napa, but if something happens to them or I feel like an upgrade then I will definitely go with those. Wish I would have seen the post ahead of time about the upgrade. I must have over looked it somehow.

I will have some pics up pretty soon. I've got pics of the whole process on my phone.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Those are likely the FJ80 rod ends, but while the tapered end will fit the steering arms, the threaded end is larger than stock (at least for the pickup/4Runner) so they won't screw into stock tie rods:

I used to run a set of these one one of Marlin's original Marlink tie rods:


they are massive joints and if installed in the larger diameter tie rod you have a very strong setup.

Wardamneagle

Yes those are the ones but you will need one of their Marlink tie-rods to go with them. An alternative is to buy this tie-rod from Budbuilt:

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/tierods.html

You would still need the tie-rod ends from Marlin or a dealership.

live4soccer7

Thanks.

mikeyallout

when u get the drag link bar off and u need to get the tire rod bar stud out
i don't have a pickle fork so don't loosen the nut all the way in case u miss
u don't want to damage your threads on that stud hit it on the side realy
good with a heavy duty hammer.intell you see it start to drop dow then
take the nut off and hit the tire rod bar at the end

live4soccer7

I got it out. Thanks.