Intesting stuff. Certainly helps me save money.

> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested
> penetrants for break out
> torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are
> below, as
> forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist,
> Bud Baker.
> *Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's
> Workshop" magazine comparison
> test.
> They arranged a subjective test of all the popular
> penetrants with
> the control being the torque required to remove the
> nut from a
> "scientifically rusted" environment.*
> Penetrating oil ..... Average load
> None ..................... 516 pounds
> WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
> PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
> Liquid Wrench .... 127 pounds
> Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
> ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix
> of 50 - 50 automatic
> transmission fluid and acetone.*
> *Note the "home brew" was better than any
> commercial product in this one
> particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a
> batch and we all
> now use it with equally good results. Note also that
> "Liquid Wrench" is
> about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of
> the price.
> Your experience may vary, etc., etc.

 

atf and acetone it is than...

 

Going to have to mix some of that up my self right quick like.

 

wow good to know. thanks.
now how to apply it? one of those hand pump garden sprayer types?

 

Probably just a squirt bottle or sorts.

 

Curious what effect the ATF-Acetone blend would have on painted surfaces...

did a little brief research and discovered that the only real concern seems to be the acetone reaction with rubber/plastic... seems like a good option to have in your arsenal but when using it I'd keep a bottle of clean water for rinsing off the surface after A-A application has freed the fastener just to be safe.

*note some folks are using power steering fluid- acetone... of course most PS fluids are just ATF fluids in a different application lol

 

Yeah I wouldn't want that mixture on my skin or anything other than the rusted bolts. Think I'll just stick with Liquid Wrench, since it looks pretty good, and I don't live in a very rusty area.

 

Man I've always had good luck with the 'ol PB. Guess now I have some backups!

 

My backyard is a "scientifically rusted" enviroment.

 

is anyone reading the contents of the product??
for example wd 40 was designed to dissipate moisture and is a water based product !!! not rust
any lubricant mixed with a solvent can be use to minimize the rust or to lose some rust thats why acetone and atf works be careful with mixinga cids and solvents. the best way is to prevent it with a good slicone based or petroleum based product and a cleaning schedule for that risky areas in your car.

 

Best stuff I've ever used is mousemilk

Expensive though. Good thing they stock it at work!

 

Paraffin. (I believe you call it Kerosene over there)?

 

i have used the ATF and Acetone on a 72 Jaguar XJ6--worked pretty good but--some of those parts on the jag (i think) were engineered to RUST WELD together. I had mine in a plastic squeeze bottle and eventually all the Acetone evaporated throug the soft plastic

 

I've also heard about using used brake fluid (or brake fluid mixed with water) for extreme cases.

Note: do NOT go mixing brake fluid with solvents or petroleum-based products! There are gasses and explosions involved that will put you in the grave.

 

That mousemilk is the shiznet but it's not really for freeing up rusted components. For maintenance and prevention on small parts it's a go to product. For freeing up rusted parts you almost need something in a pressure or spray bottle to help drive the product through the surface rust crust lol...

 

useful thread bump