I searched and didn't find a write up so I thought I would post one... if there already is a good write up then send me a case of New Belgium Fat Tire. Also if I get anything wrong please let me know for future reference as always, since I kinda made it up as I went along, peeking at the FSM showed I would need several SST's.

I started this thread got some good advice
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51723411

So here what was causing all the issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mURqhv-rKuo

Mark the slip yoke joint - to drive shaft


Disconnect the driveshaft at the rear differential, 4 bolts/Nuts 12mm bolts, 13mm nuts? I used a crescent wrench but they looked smaller then 14mm


Slide drive shaft off slip yoke


I used a flat head to push off the C-clips, I only had to use two flat heads once like the FSM states


That is a broken bearing cap


Probably caused by not being greased, since the zirk fitting is busted off


My U-joint separater kit, Craftsman sockets work the best for this application, mostly because they are exchangeable.


BFH! + kit + pbBlaster = movement


I have seen one person say you can grab this cap with a set of vise grips and yank it out.. didn't work for me. So I kept banging at it till it did.


Clean paint


Install new U-joint, make sure there is enough grease so the needle bearings do no fall out while installing. Same procedure as extraction just opposite.


I lightly tapped the clips in with a ball-peen hammer. After the new clips are in I tapped the U-joint to move the caps as far out as possible to make the joints buttery smooth. Put on the new zerk fitting and grease, if you got a greasable joint.


Makre sure to line up your slip yoke with marks, RTV the differential end. FSM called for 54lbs/ft on the four bolt/washer/nuts.


At least something is clean down there..for extra credit, what car is that in the background?


One more shot of my clean shaft


Far less reactions from the rear end while driving to work today, no shudder off throttle, no clunk while applying the gas. I plan on ordering a creeper joint from Trail-Gear for back up. The installed one is a greaseable Precision joint, $33 from Napa I needed to get to work and not worry about the u-joint breaking.

 

dang and I thought I have a bad u-joint. That thing was toast.

 

yeah it was pretty bad....

 

Ain't that the truth!
Only with an automatic could you get away with that kind of "play" for awhile. ZUK

 

Who's got an Automatic?

 

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here an say 06-10 jetta.

 

wrong limb..

 

Nice pictorial and write up. I'd be careful about whacking a u-joint cap with a spark plug socket like you have pictured. Those are thinwall sockets and definately will not hold up to hammering. Another option is to use a vise as a press with a receiving socket and drive socket. Food for thought.....

 

Sensei, probably good advice.. this is why I suggest using craftsman sockets, and I don't have a vise in my garage.