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I'm in need of the 80 amp fusible link module for my 1985 Toyota 4x4 p/u.
the piece that the white wire connects to broke off of mine.
Can anyone tell me where to get one.
And if not, is it ok to put an eyelet on the end of the white wire and
connect to one of the brass screws?
Please let me know the answers to my questions.
Thanks,
Keith [slowboy]
Last edited by slowboy; Jun 18, 2023 at 10:37 AM.
Reason: trying to post an image
White wire comes from the battery to feed the 80a fuse, so yeah if you have enough wire to reach to the screw go for it.
Thank you for the reply!
Don't know if I can get a reply to this new question from you without starting a new Thread, but when I turn my ignition switch to start, all I get is a single click.
Had starter checked twice, and it checked good both times. So what could cause this one click/no start please?
Thanks in advance!
Keith [slowboy]
not enough voltage to starter?? corroded cables, loose connections, both positive and negative. Possible ignition switch, loose connections there. Locked up engine? can you turn the engine?
not enough voltage to starter?? corroded cables, loose connections, both positive and negative. Possible ignition switch, loose connections there. Locked up engine? can you turn the engine?
Thanks for REPLY...
New battery...cables are good, connections are good...ignition switch possible problem. It's the original switch.
I'll check it out.
However, BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, pls check if your starter solenoid CONSISTENTLY works when you apply 12V directly from battery to its control pin as shown on my post here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52367443
However, BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, pls check if your starter solenoid CONSISTENTLY works when you apply 12V directly from battery to its control pin as shown on my post here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52367443
I'm having trouble finding the starter relay. I removed kick panel and glove box from the, passenger side...and computer.
I didn't see any relay there, so where is the relay located please?
Thank you,
Keith [slowboy]
Last edited by slowboy; Jun 23, 2023 at 10:17 AM.
Reason: found info
RAD4RUNNER
I purchased a 'STANDARD' brand starter relay which was suggested in this video
Sorry, can't view video. My internet connection is slow
Originally Posted by slowboy
RAD4RUNNER]the little instruction sheet that came with it said to not use with vehicles fitted with an on-board computer...
Maybe it means that it does not have a circuit to prevent/minimize "inductive kick" where a relay coil momentarily generates a high voltage (spike) when disconnected, causing sensitive electronics to malfunction or die.
That is why I strongly-recommend using a Toyota relay from a 1986 to 1995 trucks. Why those years? Because they are guaranteed to be compatible with the starters on those years (1kW for earlier, 1.4kW for later models).
Sorry, can't view video. My internet connection is slow
Maybe it means that it does not have a circuit to prevent/minimize "inductive kick" where a relay coil momentarily generates a high voltage (spike) when disconnected, causing sensitive electronics to malfunction or die.
That is why I strongly-recommend using a Toyota relay from a 1986 to 1995 trucks. Why those years? Because they are guaranteed to be compatible with the starters on those years (1kW for earlier, 1.4kW for later models).
Thanks for reply...one more question please...
when I add a hot wire to battery for left post of relay, how/will this affect the positive wire with the small wire already connected to the 80 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box...do I just leave it as is and add another positive wire to the positive post on the battery for the relay?
Can I run the positive cable from battery with small wire that goes to engine compartment fuse box to relay after removing from starter? And then add a separate cable from relay to starter?
Thanks again!
Keith [slowboy]
Last edited by slowboy; Jun 27, 2023 at 01:25 PM.
Reason: additional question
Thanks for reply...one more question please...
when I add a hot wire to battery for left post of relay,
Keith [slowboy]
Sorry, its hard to visualize word description, and different relays have different pin configurations.
No need to mess with stock fusible link wire from battery positive to fuse block.
Here's how the relay should be connected:
RELAY PIN-OUTS THANKS TO YOTATECH MEMBER sportinh2o FOR THE PHOTO WIRING SCHEMATIC
WIRING PHYSICAL LAYOUT
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jun 27, 2023 at 05:20 PM.
@slowboy , keep the brass plate. crimp a terminal lug to the thick white wire (Fusible Link Wire).
What would happen if you didn't use that thick of a wire like the white wire?
I'm thinking maybe there wouldn't be enough voltage from the battery to supply
everything power at the engine compartment fuse box.
Am I right in assuming this?
I tried using a smaller ga wire and it doesn't seem to be supplying enough power
to the alternator.
The "thick", white, wire is what's called a "fusible link". It's not a large a gauge as you think. The insulation is much thicker than a normal wire's to stop the conductors from burning through the insulation if the wire burns through. Keeps from getting fires started. The size of the conductors inside are carefully calculated to burn through if the current reaches a certain amount. Like, for example, if the current gets to 95 amps, the wire burns through, but the insulation keeps everything around it safe. Essentially, it's a wire that acts as a fuse. Hence the name.
Do NOT replace a fusible link with a normal piece of wire. Doing that removes the safety factor. Get a new fusible link to replace one that has failed, just like you would a fuse.
The fusible link between the battery and the alternator is the power output from the alternator, providing the power to main fuse block in the engine compartment, AND the battery, not the other way around. There IS a normal, I believe 12 or 14Ga wire going TO the 3 wire plug on the alt, providing 'excitation voltage" from the battery to allow the alt to function. If that is partially burnt, or the connector at either end is dirty, the alt output will be low. If that's the case, the battery will slowly drain down as the truck runs.
Something else to check carefully is all the grounds, most especially the wire going to the sheet metal of the body. If that's gone south the truck will have a ton of troubles. Check all the grounds, including the one on the alternator that runs up to the power steering pump. If that's broken, or frayed, the alternator output will be low. But check ALL the engine compartment grounds. Both ends must be clean and shiney, and the wire should ohm out as close to zero ohms as you can read with your multimeter. The alternator picks up it's ground through the power steering pump bracket, then to the head, which is grounded to the body sheet metal right behind the head. It's a wire from the lifting hook to the body sheet metal, so you can see the body sheet metal grounding system is vital.
Be aware the often the acid mist the battery puts out gets down inside the insulation of the cables connected directly to the battery, causing the wires inside to break. You can't see the corroded conductors inside. The only real way to check them is to either replace the cables with new ones, or cut open the insulation and LOOK at the wires. If I were you, I'd replace the cables that attach to the battery terminals.
I replaced the cables on my pickup 30 some years ago, but I made them myself. I used some meltwall heat shrink on both ends which seals up the insulation and keeps the wires safe. I use the Optima type battery, too, which don't outgas as badly as normal, liquid filled, lead/acid batteries. I just use a brass wire brush on the ends once a year, haven't had a lick of trouble since.
All this is my long-winded way of saying, never replace a wire with a smaller gauge wire. Always use a larger gauge. Not necessarily TOO much larger, but larger.
I purchased a 'STANDARD' brand starter relay which was suggested in this video,
Ok. I was finally able to view the video.
That's good for trucks without a starter relay. However his already has one. He merely needed to rewire it properly as I describe, and as RM Garage shows in his video.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Jun 29, 2023 at 06:21 PM.
The "thick", white, wire is what's called a "fusible link". It's not a large a gauge as you think. The insulation is much thicker than a normal wire's to stop the conductors from burning through the insulation if the wire burns through. Keeps from getting fires started. The size of the conductors inside are carefully calculated to burn through if the current reaches a certain amount. Like, for example, if the current gets to 95 amps, the wire burns through, but the insulation keeps everything around it safe. Essentially, it's a wire that acts as a fuse. Hence the name.
Do NOT replace a fusible link with a normal piece of wire. Doing that removes the safety factor. Get a new fusible link to replace one that has failed, just like you would a fuse.
The fusible link between the battery and the alternator is the power output from the alternator, providing the power to main fuse block in the engine compartment, AND the battery, not the other way around. There IS a normal, I believe 12 or 14Ga wire going TO the 3 wire plug on the alt, providing 'excitation voltage" from the battery to allow the alt to function. If that is partially burnt, or the connector at either end is dirty, the alt output will be low. If that's the case, the battery will slowly drain down as the truck runs.
Something else to check carefully is all the grounds, most especially the wire going to the sheet metal of the body. If that's gone south the truck will have a ton of troubles. Check all the grounds, including the one on the alternator that runs up to the power steering pump. If that's broken, or frayed, the alternator output will be low. But check ALL the engine compartment grounds. Both ends must be clean and shiney, and the wire should ohm out as close to zero ohms as you can read with your multimeter. The alternator picks up it's ground through the power steering pump bracket, then to the head, which is grounded to the body sheet metal right behind the head. It's a wire from the lifting hook to the body sheet metal, so you can see the body sheet metal grounding system is vital.
Be aware the often the acid mist the battery puts out gets down inside the insulation of the cables connected directly to the battery, causing the wires inside to break. You can't see the corroded conductors inside. The only real way to check them is to either replace the cables with new ones, or cut open the insulation and LOOK at the wires. If I were you, I'd replace the cables that attach to the battery terminals.
I replaced the cables on my pickup 30 some years ago, but I made them myself. I used some meltwall heat shrink on both ends which seals up the insulation and keeps the wires safe. I use the Optima type battery, too, which don't outgas as badly as normal, liquid filled, lead/acid batteries. I just use a brass wire brush on the ends once a year, haven't had a lick of trouble since.
All this is my long-winded way of saying, never replace a wire with a smaller gauge wire. Always use a larger gauge. Not necessarily TOO much larger, but larger.
Ok. I was finally able to view the video.
That's good for trucks without a starter relay. However his already has one. He merely needed to rewire it properly as I describe, and as RM Garage shows in his video.
I installed a relay and I can tell that it's starting faster...
BUT...
now my alternator isn't charging... it's fairly new and was charging before my no start condition started...
is there anything I could have done wrong installing the relay that may cause this new problem with the alternator?
I installed a relay as per this diagram on my 1985 4x4 Toyota truck...truck does start better but the alternator isn't charging...I took the alternator out and had it checked and it tested good, 14.47 charging... [it was charging 14.25 while running, before my no start/single click problem began]...I double checked the relay wiring to be sure I didn't mess the wiring up by putting wires on wrong pins...everything looked right...
is there anything that could possibly be causing this no charge condition?...
Last edited by slowboy; Jul 4, 2023 at 05:46 AM.
Reason: charging problem
@slowboy , keep the brass plate. crimp a terminal lug to the thick white wire (Fusible Link Wire).
the piece of thick white wire that was to this 80 amp fuse wasn't but about 3" long with thick wires inside of it, and had a black piece of wire spliced between it and the small battery wire on positive cable...the white wire didn't look like a fusible link because the wires inside looked too thick and possible to many...it just looked like a heavy gauge wire coming off fuse...I took about a 5" piece of positive battery cable, crimped a terminal lug on one end and attached to the module, then crimped a 12ga black fusible link to the other end to the little red wire from the battery...
then, I installed a relay, like this -
truck starts but the battery isn't charging...any ideas of what is wrong...please reply...I need help/info
Thanks,
Keith [slowboy]
Jun 18, 2023 | 10:36 AM
What would happen if you didn't use that thick of a wire like the white wire?
