4:88 gears with 35 "
Dec 19, 2012 | 08:04 PM
#62
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Joined: Sep 2011
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Dec 19, 2012 | 08:25 PM
#63
If your doing your own complete gear replacement--on your existing third members, do a lot of research, and you will need some tools to accommodate the set up. There are many threads on gear replacement. Zuk is one to search for: www.gearinstalls.com He has a lot of pics and good tips.
And I'm still running 4.10s. I have two 4.88 chunks in the shed waiting for the 35" tires. I travel a lot so I need a little longer legs. Stock gearing is to low for my needs. I just can't seem to make these 33x10.50x15 BFG KM2s wear out. I have over 50K miles on them and they're still not down to half.
And I'm still running 4.10s. I have two 4.88 chunks in the shed waiting for the 35" tires. I travel a lot so I need a little longer legs. Stock gearing is to low for my needs. I just can't seem to make these 33x10.50x15 BFG KM2s wear out. I have over 50K miles on them and they're still not down to half.
Dec 19, 2012 | 08:42 PM
#65
I've only had good experience with Nitro or Sierra gears. I'm know others have had fine experience with other gears, and lots of bad experience with some.
TG gears are good from what I've seen and heard, though I've never used them personally.
Get a master install kit (carrier and pinion bearings, shims, gear marking compound, etc) pinion seal, Toyota FIPG or Permatex Ultra Black/Grey, and preferably a solid spacer instead of the typical OE crush sleeve. It will last a lot longer. Harder to set up, but also harder to eff up on the trails.
Research, research, research..... Tools, tools, tools.... Take your time...
TG gears are good from what I've seen and heard, though I've never used them personally.
Get a master install kit (carrier and pinion bearings, shims, gear marking compound, etc) pinion seal, Toyota FIPG or Permatex Ultra Black/Grey, and preferably a solid spacer instead of the typical OE crush sleeve. It will last a lot longer. Harder to set up, but also harder to eff up on the trails.
Research, research, research..... Tools, tools, tools.... Take your time...
Dec 20, 2012 | 02:15 AM
#67
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Elizabeth City NC
I'm gonna put 33's behind my stock 22re. Any suggestions on gears. Id like to not need 4w low unless I'm real bad off. My truck stalled in 4w high with wrangler radials on a hill. It wouldn't even spin. I don't wanna go to low where I can't drive with traffic, no less than 55 mph.
Dec 20, 2012 | 04:23 AM
#68
I'm gonna put 33's behind my stock 22re. Any suggestions on gears. Id like to not need 4w low unless I'm real bad off. My truck stalled in 4w high with wrangler radials on a hill. It wouldn't even spin. I don't wanna go to low where I can't drive with traffic, no less than 55 mph.
Probably 4.56s or 4.88s for you.
Dec 20, 2012 | 09:03 AM
#69
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i guess its all preference. i've had 31's, 33's, 35's on different trucks all with 5spd and 4:10 never felt the need for lower gears, except with the 35's and steep hill starts .
all were good on the highway, and in the city.
maybe i've come to terms with these being trucks, not race cars.
all were good on the highway, and in the city.
maybe i've come to terms with these being trucks, not race cars.
Dec 20, 2012 | 02:38 PM
#71
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I have 33's on a stock 22r with a crappy dirty carb. I also have stock 4.10's and i run just fine. MOST of how your highway power will vary is how FRESH your engine is. A tired engine is still going to pull like a dog in 5th gear even with 5.29's. If i were you id check my compression, carb, plugs, n wires. Makes sure your truck is running optimum, even if your close to optimum with 33's you shouldnt have a problem. Like i said its how fresh your engine is. My carb is soo dirty i run rich no matter what, and sometimes it can barely hold idle. But my heads good, new ingnition all the way round and damn near stock compression so i can still feel 4th and 5th gear....4.88's if you need 'em
Dec 20, 2012 | 03:47 PM
#72
I have 4.10s, 33x10.50s, 3RZ engine, W56 trans, V6 rear third. It's all in my sig. My truck will do 125mph. I've GPS verified that speed. My tires didn't like it, but the rest was fine. I don't need or want to go that fast, so I am swapping to 4.88s when I put on 35s.
Dec 30, 2012 | 09:43 AM
#76
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Ok so i have a problem with getting my differential apart.i removed the 4 bolts on the rear drive shaft that meets up to the flange on the rear pumpkin.now usually isnt the whole flange supposed to just drop with the shaft?because mine wont budge one bit.its like its welded together!! This makes no sense im even able to put it in drive and reverse without it trying to twist loose.am i missing something?id reAlly like to get it off so i can get to my pinion nut and get the whole thing apart to install my gears
Jan 1, 2013 | 01:30 PM
#80
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Joined: Sep 2011
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You prob have like 4.10s or 4.30s(which I think came in 3rd gen trucks). You could maybe find a set of factory 4.88s which would help your giddy up. I got three rear factory 4.88 3rd members for my '84(solid axle front) for like $100 bucks from my local Pullapart. I left the front IFS diffs in all of them since I don't have IFS....
Factory IFS 4.88s came in 2nd gen 4runners with factory 31" tires and tow package. Code on door tag is G144 for 4.88. There is a kicker though... You can't use any other gear sets with these housings. It's a thin ring gear since they offset the pinion to accomplish the ratio. Or something like that....
I presume that the Runner in your avatar isn't the one we are referring to? Cause I'm pretty sure that's a 90-95.5 body.
Factory IFS 4.88s came in 2nd gen 4runners with factory 31" tires and tow package. Code on door tag is G144 for 4.88. There is a kicker though... You can't use any other gear sets with these housings. It's a thin ring gear since they offset the pinion to accomplish the ratio. Or something like that....
I presume that the Runner in your avatar isn't the one we are referring to? Cause I'm pretty sure that's a 90-95.5 body.
